Salvador da Bahia, the African soul of Brazil

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It only took an hour by plane to get to Salvador from São Paulo, so before we knew it, Sam and I were yet in another Brazilian state - Bahia. When booking our accommodation, we had the choice of staying in either Pelourinho, the cultural centre of Salvador, or in Barra, a coastal suburb, and a quieter alternative. In the end we randomly chose Pelourinho, which turned out to be great as I have rarely come across such a vibrant and happening place.

Having visited Ouro Preto, and Pelourinho also being a world heritage site, I kind of assumed the two would be quite similar. However, Pelourinho seems quite run down compared to Ouro Preto, and in need of much restoration, which mind you seems to be ongoing. However, what Pelourinho might lack architecturally, it definitely makes up in charm.

I think what fascinated us most was the constant sound of music that filled the streets at every hour of the day. Since Carnival is approaching, we got the chance to hear the bands practise their hypnotic rhythms and every night one of the many tiny squares hosted young upcoming bands giving live performances. To our surprise, reggae is also very popular in Salvador and there seems to be quite a thriving rasta community.

Notwithstanding the heat, we enjoyed walking around Pelo (despite almost tripping at least once a day in the cobblestones), soaking in the music, watching capoeira in the main square and visiting colonial churches. On our first night we also had the opportunity to go to a summer festival, along with thousands of other young music enthusiasts. To out great disappointment, our favourites, Ivete Sangalu and Chiclete Com Banana, had already performed on previous nights, but we still appreciated the vibe of the place and it was great to hear everyone sing along to every single song in mass.

Unfortunately, Pelourinho has its fair share of people living on the streets and it was especially heartbreaking to have to turn away when children came begging. However, I think Salvador definitely left a mark.

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Photos

Pelourinho, Salvador
Igreja NS do Rosário dos Pretos

Pelourinho, Salvador
Largo do Pelourinho
This square is the historical site of the pelourinho, a whipping post. Here, slaves were publicly tortured and auctioned. Gives me goose bumps!

Pelourinho, Salvador
Praça Terreiro de Jesus

Pelourinho, Salvador
Praça Terreiro de Jesus

Pelourinho, Salvador
Praça Terreiro de Jesus

Pelourinho, Salvador
Igreja e Convento São Francisco
In terms of gold, this is the most opulent church in the whole of Brazil. Quite ironic, since St. Francis had taken vows of poverty!

Pelourinho, Salvador
A Baiana - Praça da Se
In Brazil, Baiana either refers to a woman from the Bahia region or to the traditional dress of Bahian women.

Pelourinho, Salvador
Another type of Baiana!

Pelourinho, Salvador
Carnival street practice

Pelourinho, Salvador
Cruzeiro de São Francisco

Pelourinho, Salvador
The streets of Pelourinho

Pelourinho, Salvador
The streets of Pelourinho

Pelourinho, Salvador
...from our room window

Pelourinho, Salvador
Capoeira

Pelourinho, Salvador
Pirigulino Babilake in concert

Barra, Salvador
View from Morro do Cristo