Mystic Amazons Take on the Teatro Amazonas

---

I am in an Ibis Hotel ... basic and clean ... not as fancy as an Ibis in Europe. The only draw back about this hotel is that it is some distance from the centre. I thought of taking the bus. By watching the roads and the bus service I came to a very quick solution that I would be much less frustrated by simply taking a cab.

On the morning of my only full day in Manaus it finally stopped pouring rain after mid-day.

I took a taxi to Teatro Amazonas. It was definitely worth the six day trip up the Amazon. In total since Rio with two flights and six days on the river (minus 6hrs), I have travelled 8566kms to get here. When the Opera House was originally built it stood in the middle of the Rainforest and could be seen from all sides. Now the dome peaks out, slightly, from behind the surrounding buildings. As luck would have it there is a presentation ... on Saturday, Feb. 23 ... Conversations with the Penis ... no kidding ... must be a retort to the Vagina Chronicles.

Spent time in the Praca Sao Sebastiao ... the Square in front of the Opera House. A beautiful bronze sculpture commemorates Portugal and its connection to the sea. Almost got married off to a grey haired man in baggy pants by the map seller in the square. So I talked to the map seller. He had a card for a shop that caters to tourists ... was looking for something for the boys ... found the perfect thing! And it’s not a T-shirt or key ring.

Walked all around the Teatro Amazonas. Was able to get some good shots of the copula from the last side I looked at. The copula is covered by 36.000 terra cotta scale shaped tiles, manufactured and painted in France. There are thousands of spare tiles. The colours; yellow, blue and green represent the Brasilian flag. The brown represents the rubber tree.

The English speaking guide showed the assembled group into the ground floor of the theatre. In 1974 the whole structure was refurbished. No pictures of the state of deterioration were visible. The original metal chairs with cane seats and back have been replaced by wooden chairs covered in red velvet. One old chair is on display upstairs. The Theatre seat 700. The state box was more a place for dignitaries to be seen rather for the politicos to come and enjoy the performance.

The pillars under the balconies and the metal seat came from Scotland 110 years ago. Each pillar is topped by the same mask and the name of a famous musical or literary personage. The floral barriers under the balcony railings are metal creations from England. The ceiling paintings reflect music, poetry, literature and drama all positioned in quarters around the spread feet of the Eiffel Tower.

With big felt slippers the group entered an upstairs room resplendent with paintings on all four walls and high up on the ceiling. The optical illusion of the sitting/reclining nude on the ceiling was enjoyed repeatedly by many as they walked back and forth to observe the phenomenon. All the chandeliers were totally made of blown glass even the small chain decorations. Looked like they came from Murano.

On the way downstairs we walked past a model of the Teatro Amazonas made out of Lego chips!

One more turn around the whole building ... a few more shots and it’s off in the search of food and post cards.

R$100 later I had a bag of goodies, had forgotten my umbrella and found the door of the bell ringing church open. A small rest inside the church, no food and a taxi ride brings me to Palacio Rio Negro.

"The Book" said the Palacio was open until 17:00.
Had a strange foreboding when I got out of the Taxi.
Walked all around. Not one door was open.
At the back I saw some people inside.
A young man came out and explained to me ... wait for it ... Closed!

Thankfully he wanted to practice his English. He took me all around ... on a quick tour. He said fifteen minutes but we were in there much longer. The only things left from the German rubber baron are two statues at the bottom of the wooden staircase, a huge grandfather clock and the chandelier hanging above the main entrance. Everything else in the nineteen room mansion was sold. The people of the time of the rubber boom were so rich and frivolous that they sent their laundry to Europe ... they thought that the water of the Rio Negro which looks black because of the high tannin content would not clean their clothes. Even drinking water was brought from Portugal. I've read the laundry tidbit somewhere before.

The reason for the title, "Mystic Amazons Take on the Teatro" comes from a painting in the entry foyer at the Palacio. The Amazons bare breasted, spears in hand and riding horses are seen converging on Teatro Amazonas. The theatre stands in the rainforest. The arts are seen as bright angelic phantoms rising above the edifice. In the brilliant midst istands the builder of the Theatre ... an allegory about the indigenous attempting to control or/and overcome the intruder?


The Municipal Mercado, looking like Las Halles that used to be in Paris is closed for renovation... missed Las Halles in Paris ...it was torn down ... hoped to see the Market here ... Oh well ... when I get back here it will be all bright and beautiful! Saw the outside when I drove past and have bought postcards.

I am somewhat satisfied with as much as I have seen. Each taxi ride took a different route and showed me parts of the city I would not have walked thru. This city of 1.4 million is spread out over a large area. It exist at the meeting place of the "liquorice black Rio Negro and the toffee coloured Solimoes". One river flows so much faster than the other that the two rivers do not mix but flow side by side.

The mouldy, fallen down and unfinished buildings persist.
On the way to Amazonas Shopping large expensive homes, new condos and subdivision preparations are seen out the taxi window.
Shops in the Plaza sell washing machines that wash and dry for R$9424. LG and Bosch are big labels. Shoe stores make up the majority shops.

I walked around the whole mall, bought shampoo and detergent at Carrefour (French grocery chain) and went to the movies. Paid R$2.50 to see Sexo com Amor ... do I need to translate? It was in Portuguese. It was funny. I had a very good laugh and picked up a few new ideas.

Came back to the Ibis in the dark. A city always looks better with sparkling light decorating it.

I have bought a 24hr WiFi card ... will milk it dry and probably have to buy another one ... want to write all of my blogs before I fly off this continent and out of this country

R$50 will take me to the airport ... the flight leaves at 12:50 ... then Miami Airport Hotel ... and on the Feb. 21... Montreal via Minneapolis ...

That the adventure has terminated will hit me when I get off the plane in Montreal.

The next BIG one ... St. Petersburg ... 3-4 months ... maybe 6

---

Photos

Shingled Copula
The dome is an empty metal structure covered in clay tiles in the colours of Brasil's flag.

The Painted Ceiling
Connections to Paris abound in Manaus.

Africa Hull
An Egyptian queen, elephant husks and hyroglyphics represent 19th century Africa.

Rubber Baron's Mansion
Now a cultural centre, this mansion was home for only two people who lived from the work of rubber tappers who earned no wage ... only food.

The Trolly that Used to Be
The trolly used to run as far as the Palacio Rio Negro. Some tracks remain beside Sao Sebastiao Square.