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Published: November 22nd 2008
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We have been quiet on the blog front because we have been cramming in as much as possible into our time in Bolivia.
We met with the Australians and Canadians we had originally befriended in Peru and after a couple of nights out on the town set to the gringo trail.
First on our itinierary was Lake Titicacca which we had been unable to see from Peru due to the road blocks.
We took the bus to Copacabana and from there took a boat over to Isla de Sol. The views were beautiful and we had opted to travel to the South of the island which was supposed to be the quiter and even more beautiful - and had a beach!
Our time there was marked by the amazing scenery and the locals intent on ripping us off. Our Hostel was due to be 3 pounds a night each. 1 pound extra for hot water but she didn´t have hot water so we agreed prices and left our bags to go for lunch. However, we later discovered that we in fact had no water - either to shower or even flush the toilet! We really warmed to this lady further
when on our 2nd night there we were enjoying a drink and game of cards in our room and she decided to turn the power off to encourage us to go to bed and so plunged 6 of us into darkness and caused us to make even more noise trying to ensure the lights were turned back on!
Back in La Paz we signed up to ride the famous "Road of Death", which consists of mountain biking down a road that drops from an altitude of 4,700m to 1,200m in just over 60km. The first part of the road saw us hurtling down the new tarmac section of the road as buses whistled past us and we tried to get to grips with taking the corners at high speed. The second part saw us on the original death road, so named because it is a single track dirt road which was previously the only connecting road and would see large lorries and buses meeting each other and there are instances of one or other of these vehichles plunging off the cliffs that drop sharply from the road.
So after we'd heard all the various stories of deaths and accidents
we bumped nervously round the first couple of corners before gradually getting more into and getting to pick up a bit of speed whilst also trying to ensure we kept one eye on the road for approaching corners and the other on the beautiful scenery.
The next activity we were peer-pressured into was mountaineering - more specifically a 3 day trek that saw us attempt a peak more than 6,000m above sea level. Bouyed by our enthusiastic friends we signed up and began to really become aware of the size of the undertaking when the night we returned back from our biking to be kitted out for the next days trip and were given full thermals and ski outfits as well as crampons and an ice pick!
The next morning we set out with excitment and some trepidation as the mountain loomed larger on our approach. The first challenge of the day was the visit to the market to pick up supplies for the expedition. Taking one look at the hanging meat and general appearance of the place Cherie promptly announced to the guide that she was vegetarian!
Continuing our journey we got to a checkpoint where we
found ourseles affected by another roadblock. There were many theories as to the cause being protested but all we definitely knew was that there were a number of large buses blocking the track we were due to be heading down. Rather frustratating but also interesting as all the others affected by the blockade decided to play music and treat the time as a chance to sing and relax - rather than in being concerned at how long they would be there for.
After a couple of hours agreements were made and we were able to proceed on our way. After lunch at our first camp we got kitted out and set off for the glacier to practise using our picks and crampons. At the altitude even the 45 minute walk to the glacier proved tough but undetered we set about learning to walk and climb up the glacier. This culminated in us being tied onto a rope and then climbing up a vertical ice wall with an overhanging ledge that saw us have to lean out and over this shelf.
After successfully achieving this and as the sun went down we headed back to camp for dinner and an early
night.
Day 2 saw us carry our packs and equipment up to the second camp which sat at 5,130m. The climb was exhausting and we were able to give ourselves extra breathers but stopping to take pictures as we climbed above the clouds. The remainder of the afternoon was spent relaxing in the sunshine and trying to conserve our energy for the assent that night.
The alarm went off at midnight and we were fully kitted out and had begun our climb by 1 am with an electrical storm flashing around the top of the mountain. The aim was to be at the summit by sunrise. It was a real experience climbing extremely steep mountains in the pitch black with the aid of the ice pick and crampons, roped onto a guide. It was both incredible and terrifying and made all the harder as we climbed to higher and higher altitudes and it got harder to breathe. As well as the electrical storm flashing around the summit.
We thought we were making good pace but by around 4 am the guide said we were still 4 hours from the summit and that the descent was dangerous as the sun came
up and the ice melted. We continued to battle up the mountain fightng the cold and Andy fighting his fear of the heights as we clung to tiny paths by our toe spikes along the edge of steep cliffs. By just after 5 am and we´d heard the sound of a nearby avalanche it was clear we could not make it and 3 of the 5 of us resigned ourselves to stopping at about 5,800m. The final climb was near vertical assent for the final 200 plus metres. High above the clouds we saw the sun begin to rise and the lightning illuminating our view of the top-side of the clouds we were disappointed not to make the summit but realised that this was perhaps a step too far!
The return journey was equally tough and we returned to our camp cold and exhausted and back in warm clothes climbed into our sleeping bags to await the return of the 2 lads who had headed for the summit.
From their stories on their return we were probably relieved not to have attempted the final part which saw them jumping crevace, scaling a vertical ice wall and feeling the buzz of
the electrical storm through their ice picks.
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