Salt Plains


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Published: March 16th 2008
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Scenic toilet at the Bolivian borderScenic toilet at the Bolivian borderScenic toilet at the Bolivian border

Just don't go around the other side. Ewwww
After 2 months moving up Chile and Argentina, the next destination was Bolivia. We took a 3 day tour from San Pedro de Atacama in Chile across the Bolivian border to the National Park and Salar de Uyuni. This has got to be one of the highlights of the trip (thanks Pip for your recommendation). After being promised a tour consisting of a maximum of six people and an English speaking guide, we were slightly put out to be in a 4WD with 7 passengers and a guide whose only English words for the 3 days were ´lunch´and ´no sleeping´. However, we forgave the tour company.

After our 5 border crossings in Chile and Argentina of around 2.5 hours a go, the Bolivian format was slightly less formal. The Bolivian border control was a small brick building on a dirt road at the top of a mountain pass. The toilets were the back of an abandoned bus.

On the first day we visited blue lakes, green lakes and red edged lakes and we saw hundreds of flamingos, vicunas and llamas. We also had a pre-lunch bathe in the thermal baths. We saw fantastic rock formations, with isolated rocks abandoned in the middle of valleys. One of the rock valleys was supposed to have been painted by Dali, but apparently he booked it in and didn´t turn up! The first night we stayed next to the red edged lake and could get great close up views of the flamingos. The night time accomodation was freezing at 4,500 metres altitude and wild winds and pretty basic. We came to learn of the miraculous organisational and cooking ability of our Bolivian guide, Mario. It made up for his lack of English.

The next day, we visited more beautifully scenic lakes with flamingos, rock formations and geysers like super hot washing machines. The accomodation improved when we stayed in a hotel completely made of salt (including the beds and furniture with a grainy salt covering on the floor). Obviously, a hot shower was a little too much to ask (we are in Bolivia now!).

We got up at 4 the next day in order to see the sun rise over the Salt Plains of Salar de Uyuni. Mario had to navigate across the Salar in the dark by the stars when going through the flooded areas of the salt plains with
Flamingos at Laguna ColoradaFlamingos at Laguna ColoradaFlamingos at Laguna Colorada

One of our many flamingo shots. The lake was pretty cool too. We spent the night in a 'basic hostal' close to the lake shore. Very cool. Very cold. Very high.
no other features. We were impressed. Seeing the first hints of daylight below a crescent moon and Venus rising, all reflected in the waters was a treat. We viewed the sun coming up over the endless, flat white plains from a rock island covered in cacti. Spectacular and then some.

Scores: Mad 11 out of 10. Paul can´t argue with that.




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The great outdoorsThe great outdoors
The great outdoors

The scenery in the National Park en route to the Salar is broad and stunning
Breakfast alfueraBreakfast alfuera
Breakfast alfuera

Early morning and a spot of desayuno (Pancakes, dulce de leche, tea and yoghurt) at Inca Huasi, an amazing island in the middle of the salt plain.
Sand pyramidsSand pyramids
Sand pyramids

Great with chips:)


20th March 2008

You're inspirational!
I've been meaning to post something for a while - I enthusiastically follow your every blog and am getting very inspired!! These salt shots are some of the most beautiful I've ever seen! Miss you both and keep blogging :) HUG
7th April 2008

Top Trip!
Looks like you're having a great time - brill site. We are having fun keeping track of where you are, though slightly less fun than being there..... Enjoy the rest of the trip n see you soon. 9/10- lost one point for confusing us with foreign words! x Deb n Des

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