Potosi - A City and its People: Used and Abused for Wealth

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So the next stop on our tour of Bolivia we hit one of the highest cities in the world at 4070m above sea level called Potosi. This city itself is a Unesco World Heritage Site due to its rich history related to the mining of silver in the mountain which it weaves around the Cerro Rico. It once was one of the most populated and wealthy cities in the world and literally funded the Spanish economy for two centuries. But this has all but faded with many indigenous people and African slaves fading into the depths of the mountain with the now eliminated silver. Unfortunately up until the present day many more lives continue to be lost to the mountain as there are still up to 2000 workers who enter the many cooperative mines on a daily basis. Working there reduces the life expectancy of a miner significantly with the average miner living between the ages of 35 and 45 years old. Now they mine for other, less valuable minerals such as zinc.

Before we set out on our trip we heard of this place from one of John’s friends. So it was roughly on our list but I hadn’t thought of it too much until now. Tourism is now part of the mines but it is truly not a place for tourists, or in my opinion, anyone. We booked our trip with our hostel and would be taken into the mines by Antonio who worked there for 5 years. Even after 5 years, it is clear to the see effect on his body. His spine is significantly curved, he looks a lot older than his years, his is missing a lot of his teeth and he is a bit mad!

So after our breakfast we were geared up in our mining outfits. The amount of times I have put on different gear on these travels, each time feeling like a twat, is seriously mounting up! Orange Jackets, trousers, big boots, mining hard hats, truly sexy gear. Next we hopped on a bus that took us to the miners market. Each morning the miners themselves drop by these many shops to pick up their supplies. What supplies does a miner need then? Cigarettes, Cocoa Leaves, Fizzy Drinks, 96% Pure Alcohol and Dynamite. Yip, you heard me, Dynamite. They just sell it on the street to whoever wants it. Antonio was going a bit wacko at this point, putting dynamite in his mouth, lighting it, drinking the alcohol, chewing cocoa leaves (and offering all this to whoever wanted to try). So after Antonio gave us a run through of all the reasons the miners need these things and all was tried and tested, we were encouraged to buy a “Happy Meal” for the miners. This was basically a selection of all the things I mentioned. Then we bought Dynamite for them and one for us to detonate!!! Crazy stuff! Goodies in hand, off we went to the mines!

We spent roughly 2 and a half hours down there. That was about 2 and a half hours too much. We descended steps to reach small tunnels where you had to bend over constantly or you would whack your head. We walked along under rickety wooden planks that were supposed to hold the mountain up. I’d say they did absolutely nothing. We climbed through tiny holes, ascending up and down different levels of the mines, all the while Antonio would explain more and more. I don’t remember too much apart from wanting it to be over. We met miners who work there, pushing carts of rock weighing 1 tonne at a time. In the whole day, they would push 20 of these (between 2 miners). We gave them some supplies and on they went. We passed by big holes in the ground by balancing on thin wooden planks or sometimes Antonio said to avoid the wooden planks. Then every so often there were recommendations not to touch certain walls because they were asbestos. Safety is out of the question here. I don’t think that the word has ever been uttered in the mines.

The heat and lack of air down there is incredible. It’s about 4200m above sea level and the air is thin enough without the dust. Our camera was jamming there was so much dust in the shutter and zoom. My lungs felt like two big hoovers and the hoover bags needed to be emptied!!! Our next stop was to complete a religious ceremony sacred to all the miners. There is no Catholicism in the mountain. The miners pray to Tio (The Devil) and Pachamama (Mother Earth). So we sat next to two devil statues, made in the 50’s. The devils are given offerings by the miners and all around were coca leaves, empty alcohol bottles, cigarettes. Two of our group placed cigarettes in the mouths of the devils. The longer it burns, the better for you…. We did some rituals like pouring alcohol and dropping coca leaves on the hands and feet of the statues. The two girls were encouraged to touch the penis for fertility!!! We said some prayers in the dark and at this point I was ready to go. Happy it was all over. Yeah right!

Next thing I know, Antonio is getting Dynamite ready. I’m thinking he is sorting it out for some miners to give it to. Nope. Ok, so he is sorting it for detonation outside (cos that’s what we heard happens). Nope. He is going to set it off in the mine. Just a few feet away. I can’t believe what’s happening but as soon as it’s mentioned, three English lads are away planting it in the rocks a few feet away and are running back with Antonio to the rest of us. We are told to cover our ears. I’m trying to cover my ears and take a video without seriously panicking that I’m 150m down a mine that’s totally unsafe and we are setting off Dynamite. The nervous wait with counting by Antonio. The nervous laughter from some. I’m silent. John looks nervous but giddy. BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOMMMM. We have a video but it really doesn’t do it justice. It was scary loud and my whole body felt it, like if you were beside a speaker in a nightclub. We went to investigate the damage but the dust was incredible. It was so difficult to breathe.

Next we ran for ages, I really still don’t understand why but I know we were running, hunched over for what seemed like ages and I was wrecked. I had to stop. I couldn’t breathe with the dust, altitude, the fact I was scared out of my mind and that I wanted to go in the other direction and get out. We finally reached a spot where we were offered to go down three more levels. Nope, I was done. Not doing it. John didn’t either and one of the English guys too. We were told the space was very small. When the other half of the group came back up, I was so happy I didn’t. One guy who is a climbing teacher said it was very unsafe, the ceiling was basically falling down and he wanted to turn back at one point. I was ready to get out. So we headed in the direction of the exit. It seemed to take forever. The climb back up was excruciating because I was panicking. I just couldn’t see the end. When I finally saw the light, I was delighted but just had to lie down at the top. It was one of the most intense, scary things I have done ever. How do these miners do it every day for hours on end? It is a terrible terrible life that is further shortened by just working there breathing in the dust, fumes or by rocks falling or collapses. How in this day and age can this work be condoned? I suppose then I had to reflect on the fact that I had just used these terrible working conditions as a tourist attraction. I will not ever forget that. A judgement error by me and by many others but also it is important that we in the world know what the hell can happen in this day and age. This is especially true at times when we all complain about stupid things in our everyday life or work.

So why are these miners doing it? The minimum you get paid is 60dollars a day. That is a hell of a lot cheaper than the rest of Bolivia. So money is the driving force behind these people choosing to enter the hell that is that mountain, to shorten their lives, to support their families. Truly sad that they feel that this is the choice to be made.

We also visited a museum here in the city that tied in well with the history of the mines. The museum is based in the building that was once the mint of the city and we got to hear and see about how the silver coins were made by coin presses over different eras. We got to see some original coins too which was pretty cool. There was even an interesting section where it showed how once again slaves, whether it is the indigenous people or African labourers, worked in poor conditions to assist with the production of the mint. The Spanish really did take this city and the people for all it was worth! We also saw an archaeological section with child mummies (a really sad display, eerie even) and displays of different minerals, metals and stones found in South America. It was a really interesting museum and one of the better ones we have been to because it really tied in with the story of this incredible city. If you are visiting Bolivia, Potosi really is a must see.

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