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Published: March 19th 2009
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Tues 10th we took a morning bus from Uyuni to Potosi which was about 5-6 hours. Only two companies offer a 10am bus to Potosi, the others are all night buses. Was a bit tight some of the way, right on the edge of a cliff. Just as was wondering what would happen if a car was coming the other way the bus in front of us had a tractor come round a corner, and the tractor had to back up to let us go by. Bus broke once and we had to wait to let it cool down, was nicer than in the middle of the night cos could sit in the sun. The bus didn't stop at the bus station as you would expect, but at the bus office nowhere near the bus station. A man gave us a leaflet for a hotel that sounded ok so we got a taxi there and it was quite nice. Apart from our toilet not flushing, so we had to change rooms. We were able to book a silver mines tour at reception, but Lorna wanted to think whether she was going to do it first cos her back was hurting. I
went for a walk into town to get something to eat and check out the tour prices of other companies, the 3 I checked were the same as our hotel - 80Bs including protective clothing but didn't pick up from our hotel compared to if we booked at the hotel, guess which won. There was a big waterfight going on here as well, and the kids were filling balloons in the public fountain or you could buy them from old ladies on the corner, who had buckets full of ready to throw or fill your own and water to fill them. I was buying a Harry Potter book in Spanish (to help me practice) and asked the stall person why the water fight, and he said it was the start of carnival and all the kids join in. The guy sensibly had plastic sheets over his books!
Wednesday morning we got picked up in a rickety van and taken to get our protective clothing, and appropriate footwear and helmet with a lamp. Mine wouldn´t sit straight no matter how many times I straightened it. On the way to the mines we stopped to buy presents for the miners like
fizzy drinks (cos it gets really hot down there), coca leaves (we learned they don't eat at all during their shifts only chew the leaves all day), sodium bicarbonate (to go with the coca leaves) and cigarettes (which were a waste so if you do the mine tour buy coca leaves or fizzy drinks instead). We bought stuff as a group and then could buy more things if we wanted. You could also buy dynamite and the necessary components like the fuse and detonator. When we got to the mine entrance we were split into two groups and our guide was called Freddy. He said Freddy like Freddy Mercury, not Freddy Silver...! I thought it was funny. The company were called Silver Tours, would recommend them.
We all traipsed into the entrance and within minutes had to step aside to let a trolley go past so it didn't kill us! Was very noisy but not too cramped.... yet. Further along we got to meet one of the dudes who maintains the water pipes, essential for the drilling of the mines. The youngest worker we met was only 16. After some tight holding onto ladders we descended down into the
mines, and then went down some more. Got to watch two guys making lots of dust and noise while drilling, a gang hauling the drilled stuff up in 60kg bags and taking out the big lumps of rock. Also got to watch 2 guys prepare a dynamite charge, to detonate later in the day. There we where standing in a small corridor, with a big drop to one side and a wooden plank going over the hole, no lights on and noise and at that moment I found out I possibly might suffer from claustrophobia and started panicking and couldn't go back because people from the group where behind me and in front was no exit. Was such fun - not! The guide came over and asked if I wanted to leave and I said no I just need to get out, not really thinking obviously. So sat down and tried to calm myself down. He offered me some of the 96% alcohol they drink, which I have tried and it is gross, so said no and he kept trying to get me to drink it until I forcefully said NO, and he goes ok just sniff it then. To
shut him up I took a quick sniff, which did sweet F A. Sat there for a bit until felt better and decided to stay on the tour since had paid for it and is highly unlikely I would be in Potosi again. Made it to the end as well yay. On the way out we stopped to pay our respects to the Devil of the Mine, and that is the only place the cigarettes are needed, for an offering along with coca leaves and the wee bottle of 96%.
We had booked our transport from Potosi to Sucre through the hotel as well, 30Bs for a 4 hour trip or 40Bs for a 2 hour trip, so went for the quicker option thinking it would be a nicer bus or something. A taxi car picked us up from the hotel and stopped at a square, so we got out. The driver goes no no wait inside, so we got back in and waited. When we had had enough waiting I got out to ask where the bus station was and was told, no we were going direct in this car. We thought sweet and got back in and
waited a bit more. Got out again and asked when we were leaving and understood we were waiting for another person. Didn't realise we were actually waiting for them to find another person and they wouldn't leave until there were at least 3 passengers in the car! Or we could pay an extra 40Bs and leave now. Which did not go down too well. Lorna kept asking for our money back so we could go somewhere else. There was a station wagon across from us that had 2 ladies waiting as well and they were trying to get us to change to their car so they could go as well, but since they had so much stuff they had filled the boot (a station wagon boot!!) and our bags wouldn't fit in so all 4 of us had to wait. Finally after 40 minutes they managed to drag a guy over and off we went. At the exit of Potosi the car stopped and picked up a lady with a kid, between 1 and 2 years old, and they got squashed in the back with us. I was thinking oh great a crying kid for 2 hours, but the kids
over here are really well behaved. He helped me eat my crackers I didn´t like and kept himself amused waving my hand while his gran slept.
Got to Sucre and we couldn't find the hostel we wanted to stay in so just went to the next cheapest, which was super flash and really nice. Was expensive from what we were used to but still cheap in pounds. We then went and found the cheaper one and made a reservation for the next night, since was half the price of the hotel.
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