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Published: September 14th 2008
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Potosí is a the capital of the department of Potosí in Bolivia. It is claimed to be the highest city in the world. It lies beneath the Cerro de Potosí — sometimes referred to as the Cerro Rico ("rich mountain") — a mountain of silver ore, which has always dominated the city. Cerro de Potosí's peak is 4,824 meters (15,827 feet) above sea level.
After the worlds most dangerous road we thought a trip to the silver mines in Potosi would be a breeze so after our first overnight bus journey in Bolivia we reached Potosi (alive) at 6am. Luckily the hostel we had booked allowed us in (even thought the night watch man didnt seem too impresed at the ungodly hour we had turned up) and after a few hours kip we had had the first proper shower we had had in ages!
We spent the day looking around Potosi and booked the silver mines tour after being convinced by the agency it was perfectly safe etc. Potosi itself is a nice little city, but at 5000m its pretty hard to breathe so walking VERY slowly was the name of the game!
The following morning
we got collected at 8am and headed off in a mini bus to the top of the mountains to an office where we were handed our mining gear. We were told to buy bandanas to put around our faces to protect us from the dust in the mine and then were taken to the loacs market to buy gifts of coca, drinks and dynamite for the miners working in the mine. Our guide had himself been a miner for 3 years but aware of the health risks had now decided to be a tour guide. The statistics of people working in the mines are pretty shocking. Bolivia is a poor country and there is very little employment. Working in the mines brings in about 1000bolivianos a month (slightly less than 75GBP) which is more than the average salary. However the average life expentancy of a miner is only 40 years old as many of them die from respiratory diseases related to the silica and asbestos they inhale whilst in the mines. In addition many miners will take their children to work with them and as part of the mining tradition it is very difficult for people born into the mining
community to take other career paths. Children as young as 8 workin the mine and many of them die before the age of 30. Take into account the risk of the mines collapsing etc and it is a pretty scary job.
The miners work for a cooperative and so buy their own dynamite. This is sold readily in the local shops and there is no age restriction! As part of the tour we bought some of gifts but also some we could watch explode later on....all very surreal!
So armed with gifts we were then driven up to the mine. We were little aprehensive as the entrance was very tiny and very dark, but in we went. After walking in to the mine it became very apparent how bad the air actually is. With the torches on there was dust everywhere. Parts of the mine were so small we were bent double. After reaching our first stopping point (the mining museum inside the mine) we then continued.I started becoming very conscious of the fact I was struggling to breathe but in my head I was thinking ´its ok I´ve been caving in Chedder Gorge before how hard can
it be?!´ After deciding to carry on for a few minutes I then started shaking and began to have what I can only imagine was a panic attack. I shouted ot the guide who then got the other support guide to lead me out. Seamus claims he had seen enough and decided to come with me (I have a sneaking suspicion he was delighted that he didnt have to give up first!) and we were led back out of the mine.
The guide was really lovely, saying it happens all the time, but I suspect he was just being nice! Speaking to him about his life in the mines was however really interesting and was a good opportunity to practice some much needed Spanish whilst waiting for the rest of the group. In addition it also gave me a chance to get over my bruised ego!
Once the rest of the of the group returned we then had an opportunity to watch some dynamite in action. The guides lit it and then handed it around for photo opportunities! Standing with a lit stick of dynamite in our hands was a pretty surreal experience! The guide then ran
into the distance to plant it and then ran for cover about 30seconds before it went off!(Video attached!)
All in all we only made it ot the first level. The rest of the group went down to level 3 and a lot of miners work at level 4. I have no idea how deep level 4 is but with the air being pumped in and working down there for 12 hours a day with no food (only coca to keep them going) we can only take our hats off to them.
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