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Published: November 3rd 2005
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Hi all,
Wow! We´ve just done something today that will stay with us for a very long time. A visit to the co'operative mines just outside Potosi. Fascinating, scary, humbling and eye opening.
More later....
So, we caught the overnight bus from La Paz to Potosi. A great experience mainly because it was so easy and comfortable. The bus ran on time, we had no problems, and each had a massive reclining seat. The only downer was having to sit through Rocky III in Spanish...but we both managed to doze through that...
Potosi is brilliant. Its the highest city in the world, and its history is all about mining, the Spanish and silver. Legend has it that a native indian was caught up on the mountain one night, ánd noticed a shiny liquid within his fire. Turns out it was Silver. Once the Spanish found out, the place went ballistic. Apparently in its time, the city was the largest in the whole of the Americas and was bigger than London or Paris at the time.
The mines produced tonnes of silver (80% seam were discovered), and it became the centre for coin and currency manufacture. As
you can imagine, this made for a wealthy town, and whilst it is a shadow of its former self, it really is a lovely place (a UNESCO world heritage site).
The city sits below the Cerro Rico (rich mountain), atop the high Bolivian Andes, and so far the sky has been a perfect deep blue over the oranges and golds of the town and the surrounding landscape.
Yesterday we visted the old Mint, which was in the beautifully restored mint building...it was a musem of western quality with the most amazing wooden metal presses, coin presses and so on....seems Bolivia was into decimalisation almost a decade before the Brits !!
And then today we went to the mines.........
So, it turns out that theres not much silver left, unsuprisingly. However, the Bolivian authorities allow the local people to mine on a collective basis. What this means is that groups of miners, usually family based, can mine within the area and sell what they mine to the local factories. Each miner is effectively self employed, and has to buy his own dynamite, picks, lamps etc., and only takes home a small percentage of the groups earnings.
Lou and the Cerro Ricco
We are about to go 100 meters into that !!! We went on a tour (Koala tours, excellent), and it was amazing. Firstly, we visited the miners market to buy gifts (dynamite...and and extra sticks to blow up after...). Lou dropped her ignition bit on the ground, and it rolled under a moving bus...much to the amusement and panic of all around...lots of nervous laughter once it reappeared. But seriously, the miners send their kids out to buy this stuff in the morning...hope there are no Arab fundamentalists living here !!
And then into the mine....
Well..we had been warned. Our first bit of fun, as we walked into the entrance, was to have to stand to one side as a trolley full of rubble came hurtling towards us, complete with two miners hanging of the back. This was Indian Jones in real life, and I can tell you it was pretty scary....those things were rocking all over the track, and the miners were hanging on for dear life. A trite example...but if anyones ever been to Disneyworld and can remember the runway mining train ride..well this place was the real thing.
The mines was like stepping back into the 18th century. All work is bascially manual.
The miners work 12 to 24 hours in deep, dark, dusty, noisy conditions. The smell of gasses and dust was at times overpowering...the biggest cause of death is lung problems, (after the accidents), not suprising when some of these guys spend 30 years underground, from the age of 13 upwards.
We walked through tunnels supported by wooden beams, getting narrower and smaller, and then branched off to the lower level. This however involved crawling and scrambling through an old prevously mined seam...it really was hands and knees.
The guide was excellent, and explained the whole system...but simply put...and group of men go down the mine all day, and literally mine by hand very very poor material for a pitance.
The guide knew the miners and took us to a place where they were preparing for the evenings dynamite blast. We scrambled through a post box like hole into a small cavern where a group of miners were preparing for a new blast. The miners were working like dogs, hot and sweaty...but amazingly good natured and willing to share stories etc. They were very grateful for the pop and dynamite and coca leaves...but we were shocked at the
conditions. I shall never grumble about commuting on the M25 again.
And so it went on...more tunnels, more noise, more dust.
We were both happy tp get out. Our throats were burning, and we smelt of strange chemistry lab smells for days.
A shocking and amazing experience. The only thing that makes it even slightly understandably is that fact that the miners choose to do this...because they can just about make a living. They forced the government to reopen the mines, and they work for themselves. A terrible existance, but at least they are not being exploited by some large corporation.
Anyway..we made it out and then had a play letting off some real dynamite outside the mine. Great fun. Then off for a well earned beer...
Off to the salt lakes next...Can´t wait...
Steve and Lou
STOP PRESS: We are running a bit behind on the blogs...currently in Santiago....and just off for our first Cuzza in 5 weeks. Steve is dribbling......
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Dad Dave
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Script for a BBC Documentary ?
Lou - you'll have no trouble getting a job as a script writer (I know Steve didn't since there are no spelling mistakes !). What an experience, and all we have to look forward to in the way of big bangs is Nov 5 and the way the Government is performing at the moment no one would miss them if we suceed where Guy failed. Nans tel number is (0)1903-246842.