La Paz (or more rightly Loki hostel) and Huayna Potosí

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Life as a cusqueñan ended on a pretty lavish note. And on a bit of a sad one. After spending the majority of my days surrounded by French who treated me slightly similar to a leper, some amazing Australians and Americans arrived and I remembered how much fun it was to be with 'friends'. Ticket already booked however as sod's law would dictate, I had to move on to Bolivia to make my way to meet Jeni, my Soil Association Customer Service Liaison Dogsbody Logistics Acronymn compadre.

I left Cusco to head for La Paz by the luxury-class only train to Puno. It was an expense no less, but an experience that I never expect to get again after my third visit to Puno and Cusco and second to Machu Picchu, it was one of those once in a lifetime experience decisions. It was amazing. But my conscience couldn't help but nag me as I sat there watching the poverty stricken Peruvian countryside go by. At one point a village that obviously had some kind of value to Westerners, who promtly went, built the obligatory church and mansion, pillaged the village of its resources, and left as quickly as they came. Church and mansion left to disrepair, a relic of a life once was. As in so much of South America.

And as much as conquistadors are hated and blamed for a lot, quite rightly, westerners brought a lot to their name also. When you consider that Machu Picchu is only about 500 years old, and how developed the rest of the world was at this time, perhaps the invasion of new society and technology that had pushed on the rest of the world to develop a darn site faster, might have actually been a good thing... (controversial I know).

Well then from Puno to La Paz by bus I arrived at the Loki hostel not knowing anyone or anything and I've been rapidly inducted into the 'waste your time at a tourist hostel the other side of the world' club and loved every minute.

This was partly due to the massive difference between Cusco and La Paz. Initial impressions were - poor, cramped, dirty, dangerous. This has only slightly changed from being here. The poverty is more than I ever expected, it makes acclimatising in the social sense harder than I ever thought. Add to that staying in the nicest and warmest of hostels so far, where it's a little England or Australia, and every trip out is a crash to the system that you can't not want to just run back to the safety and comfort of the Loki. Equally the 'safety' of the Loki has also been questioned where every couple of days something is ransacked, broken or robbed. So nowhere here is safe sadly. There are some nice places here though, obviously the hostel isn't in these places otherwise the prices would be sky high, but I can't say it's anything on Miraflores still. I've already been grabbed in the street by a random man, in daylight, with people around, who wouldn't let go of my wrist as I shouted for him to 'let go of me' (I have since learnt the translation!). Another successful venture into the scary outside world of La Paz. The people here are far more insistent in their ways. I was pandered to in Peru where you just had to say 'no gracias' to get left alone, here that doesn't cut it. My Spanish has developed to defensive mode more than conversational mode.

Not that it's bad here. I have no doubt my experience would have been entirely different had I stayed somewhere quieter and less touristy and submerged into society better. But as I've realised, travelling alone, it's actually really nice to have a break and just live normal for a bit. Even if it's not genuine. It's been good to sit and have a beer with some 'friends' and chat nonsense.

To make up for all my wasting of time and money I have done some touristy things. I went to see the 'ruins' of Tiahuanacu, which is actually what was a pile of mud and stone rocks that were found from pre-inca that are being rebuilt to their 'original' form. Scepticismo over here, I think it's about as genuine as the pumas and condors that South American tourist companies ply you with at every rock you come across. But some good giant monoliths that are original and couldn't be faked made it worth the visit. Also went up Chacaltaya mountain. A big iron rock mountain that looks onto Huayna Potosí that would be my downfall. The sight of snow, mountains and challenges broke me and I just had to do it. After Chacaltaya the tour went to Moon Valley which was actually pretty cool. Just some weird earth formations that naturally formed, saw a Chinchilla, saw the richest side of La Paz (the further south you go it seems the richer it gets) and was quite impressive.

And as this blog is increasing in length I'll try and be brief as I sit here at 2:40am trying to upload my photos one by one before my camera is inevitably stolen -.-

With some random acquiantances made of two British guys, Matt and Tim and an Israeli, Yali, we found a team to climb Huayna Potosi. The easiest summit to climb around, if not here then possibly in most countries. Trek booked. Insurance checked (and failed as mine doesn't cover anything over 2,000m!). Last emails sent. We were off. The first day consisted of trying the gear, learning how to use our crampons and ice axes, and just getting used to life in our snow kit. The following day we pack everything into our giant backpacks and head off to climb from 4,700 to 5,200 (more or less). This hike was up a rock mountain. Big steps. No air. I failed miserably. I have turned into goo since travelling and have not had to carry my big backpack for more than maybe 20 minutes. 3/4 hours later the guides take my bag off me and get me to base camp 2. After a nap and some card games with the rest of the trekkers at the camp we all try and sleep before our 1am departure time for the summit. The weather is snowing. Constantly. And cloud. Everywhere. The day before we met some people who made it to the summit but couldn't see anything and then descended still not knowing where they went.

I'm roped to Yali and one guide while Tim and Matt are with the other one. It's pitch black, my torch has the power of a flea turning a wheel, it's freezing cold, and we're trudging through snow. This stuff ain't easy. After needing to pause at every opportunity I could to breathe, Yali gets roped to Tim and Matt and they head off speeding in front to the top. I know we have a time limit, and if we aren't at the summit by then, it's time for descent as it's too dangerous otherwise. But right now, all I care about is moving my next leg forward. About a foot in front. 3 seconds a pace. It's slow going. And I'm still out of breathe. The fitness just wasn't there. I can't blame altitude or asthma or sickness. I'm just out of shape. The guide, once again, tries to persuade me to stop and give up, we're not going to make it after all at the pace we're going and the difficulty I'm having. But I'm not having any of it. Pride was part, and the support Yali gave me helped, but I kept going for the pure thought of the other guys. You're told from the start that the last part of the ascent is ridiculously hard. We got 2 guides especially for this. And I wasn't wasting one of them on me and ruining the chance of them making it because I'm a lard-ass.

And thank god I did. At 5,750 for me, and about 5,850 for the guys, the altitude kicks in for Matt and the asthma kicks in for Yali and they both need to descend. Fast. Sitting in the snow, in the pitch black, my guide runs up the hill to meet them and bring them to me for our descent. I saw nothing of the summit. I still have no idea where I walked. What it looks like. Or what I did. Except for the figures. But knowing that Tim managed to make it up to the summit made it all worth while.

So much thanks to the guys and apologies for the luck they had of being stuck with me and not moaning about it once (well maybe but I pretended not to hear hehe). The hardest thing I've had to do, only sadness in the weather meaning I couldn't see anything other than some cloud and snow flakes in front of my face. The photos from some others show that it's definitely a mountain worth attempting if you have the fitness levels. Just remember that altitude is indescriminate.

And with that I'll leave you to rest your eyes 😊

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