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I am currently in Rurrenabaque, Bolivia sweating profusely in the sweltering humidity. Midday is really hot and humid and it seems like everyone takes a siesta for a few hours in the afternoon. It´s too damn hot to do anything productive! An occasional breeze will boost my hopes for a few seconds, but it fades quickly. I spend the night here in Rurre, then head out early tomorrow AM by river boat for Chalalan Ecolodge deep in the Parque Nacional Madidi. Madidi National Park is one of the most diverse ecosystems in the world with tons of exotic animals and plants to be seen. Chalalan, run by a local village, takes pride in providing knowledgable guides and having little to no negative impact on the environment. Resposible tourism is the term I believe they use. Madidi has been in National Geographic a few times and Chalalan has also been recognized by many magazines. Needless to say, despite the heat/himidity, I´m very excited.
Now, to backtrack a bit.
I flew into La Paz, Bolivia early on Thurs May 13. Upon arrival I was rushed by taxi through buttloads of black fume spewing traffic, caused by what seems like the daily
public demonstration. I have seen 3 seperate demonstrations in 2 days.
La Paz is much larger than I anticipated. The city is compactly nestled in a mountainous bowl of sorts, w/ the El Alto suburb spilling over the edges. A very dramatic looking city, to say the least. It reminds me of San Francisco quite a bit. Except the street corners are lined w/ cholitas (campesino women who move to the city but still cling to their traditional way of dress) selling boiled corn, batteries, socks, and empanadas. Which, by the way, I had the most amazing empanada (meat filled pastry) ever with several different sauces to slather on it! I´m going to find it again when I return! Lots of car traffic (minivans w/ some dude hanging his head out the window yelling/singing where he is going). Lots of foot traffic. And lots of graffiti. Graffiti everywhere and on everything.
My first hostel, Hostel Loki was purposely chosen by me because they also house Kanoo Tours, w/ whom I have arranged my jungle trip. If I were 24, single, and wanting to get drunk and/or laid every night, Loki would be my first choice. It felt like
sleeping in a dorm room with a bar upstairs. Noisy to say the least. The next AM I checked out and found my next sleeping location, Arcabucero Hostel, which was in a much quiter setting, yet still near the major attractions. For $90 Bolivianos ($13 US) a night , I can´t complain. The manager is also very helpful as well.
Yesterday I walked around the city all day long trying to get my bearings straight. Not really a big deal in any other city, but considering that every single street is uphill (trust me, it´s possible) I´m feeling the fatigue for sure. Actually my toes really. Three blisters on my big toe to form one giant super-blister. Kinda like the Voltron of blisters. The streets here are fairly confusing. Many of the street names are only one block long, before they change names. Fairly confusing, but luckily La Paz is pretty compact. I ended up walking up this giant hill for a better view of the city. Took me at least an hour, but it was very worth it. What a beautiful view! The local garbage man kept telling me to go up higher for an even better view.
La Paz
bowler hats for sale I made it a bit further, but man, those steps are a killer! Seemed like just as many as the Inca Trail! I want to find another view mentioned in my guidebook. Mount Illimani looms in the background, covered in snow, with the scooped sides of La Paz at its´feet. Sounds pretty cool!
I´ve been at an elevation of at least 11K feet for a few weeks now, so La Paz at about 12.5K ft isn´t too bad. I still have to stop about once a block, but I´m much better than when Susan and I first got to Cusco. If it weren´t for the pollution spewing colectivos filling my lungs w/ smoke, I´d probably be OK. I want a facemask like they wear in Asia. I´m actually suprised they don´t use them.
Well, I´m hungry. I´m off to find some pejerrey a la plancha (local caught fish grilled over a fire) and an ice cold beer. Luckily this town is only about 6 square blocks and right next to the Rio Beni. I shouldn´t have much of a problem finding the meal. Now if I could only find a beer that is cold.
BTW, I´m
La Paz
knitting while selling taters probably won´t have any more pics to add while I´m on the road. Just way too time consuming/frustrating. I´ll definately add them when I get home though!!
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Heather
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My boyfriend and I have been enjoying your posts! They really remind us of our own trip there. Our blog is now giving away a free night in Peru or Bolivia, if you're still going to be there for a bit, or if you know anyone else who will be. If you have the time, check out the blog at dirty-hippies.blogspot.com. Good luck with your acclimation to the altitude! Heather :)