Lima to La Paz - Canyons, Inca Trail and Death Road


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November 21st 2009
Published: November 21st 2009
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Lima to La Paz


Before I started this trip, I was sure that I wanted to see Machu Picchu and do the Inca trail, but there is a 3 months in advance reservation required. After further investigations I decided to join a tour for 3 weeks, so that I was sure to do the Inca Trail and have some company for a while. Even though I must say it is very easy to travel around Southamerica alone, I always meet people heading the same direction.

So there we go, a group of 7 meet in Lima to join this 3 weeks tour through Peru to Bolivia. After a day in Lima, which was just another city, we headed down south to Paracas and to the Ballestas Islands. We got up the next morning and took a cruise around the islands to see the hunderds of birds, sealiones and penguines, which were not only nice to look at but also very smelly.... After the 2 hour cruise the next stop was a vinery, where they also brew the national drink Pisco. Well, we tasted some of the wines, but there weren't really comparable to others I know. After that it was time for a real Oasis. Peru is very deserted place and therefore the Oasis of Huacachina was just what I was looking for. We had lunch and spend time around the little lake before we took on the advanture of Sandboarding and riding the dunes in a buggy! It was so much fun, even if it looked a bit scary first to go down the sanddunes on a board! After an amazing sunset we settled down in the dessert with a fire and lots of Pisco Cola (maybe a bit too much ;-)). We stayed for the night in the desert and I got the luxury to sleep with a mat in the car, so less freezing for me.
The next day, back in the Oasis and after hot a shower and breakfast, it was time to discover another famouse part of Peru, the Nasca Lines. By bus we arrived at lunchtime in Nasca and were soon at the airport to mount a little (6 seater) airplane to fly over the Nasca Lines, the only way to see it! It was quite astonishing these old lines and still it is unknown how they have been created and why. After a 45 minutes flight I guess we were all happy to land, as we all got very sick in the little plane (not sure if it was the plane or the Pisco from the night before ....)!
The same night we took the overnight bus to Arequipa further inland. As we arrived in the morning we spend some time to discover the little white town and planning the trip to the Colca Canyones, the deepest canyone in the world! Early next morning we left and climbed the road up to 4900 meter above sealevel. On the way we had to try some Coca tea, not only because it tastes good, it also helps with altitude sickness. But all in all I was fine but it was really strange to walk around on such high grounds, as every steps takes your breath. We then descented again to the Colca Valley where we enjoyed after lunch and a short walk the local hot springs, what a relaxing bath! To finish the day in style we sat around a warming fire and enjoyed a hot soup, as it was quite cold there.
The Colca Canyon, which we finally visited the next day, is not only famouse because it is so deep, there is also the chance to see the Condor, the largest bird in the world. We drove all the way to the lookout over the canyon and were told, that the Condor usually shows up between 9.30 and 10 am. We waited and waited and waited and only some small little birds flow around. Just as we were about to leave we heard someone screaming "Condor" and there it was, flying in front of us with a full swing. Later on a second showed up above us and we considered ourselfs happy to see at least 2! It was now time to go back to Arequipa, another 6 hours drive through the Valley.
Following morning we were finally off to the destination I was so looking forward to, Cusco, the starting point to the Inca trail. This time we flew over the volcanoes surrounding Arequipa into Cusco. As it was sunday, we watched the enormouse parade around the main square, taking place every Sunday. We relaxed and got mentally prepared for the Inca Trail the rest of the day.
But first we visited some other ruins around Cusco in the Sacred Valley to get a tast of what to expect the next days. I was sure there are not impressive as Machu Picchu, but still the landscape and the ruins were very nice! On the way we also visited a little zoo, which is taking care of endangered animals. One of these animals was a funny nacked dog, which has a body temperature of 45C, a so called hot dog (where is the bread and katchup??)!
The next day we finally started the Inca Trail, we were early up and on the road to get to km82, where the trail starts. The first day was an easy hike, but still I was glad we had the porters carrying our bags. The landscape was amazing and the weather just treated us well. We arrived at the first camp in time to relaxe and enjoy one of the great dinners we got on the way.
The second day was the hardest, the Dead Womens pass with an altitude of 4200 meters above sealevel. I was glad the day was cloudy, I guess it would have been torture to walk this part on a sunny day. It was hard, but I made it and happily reached the top! Going down was much easier than and we soon arrived in the second camp! The cook surprised us later that night with a cake, made in the middle of mountains!
The next day was a bit of a mix of hard and easy parts but it was a really long day. Unfortunately it started raining in the afternoon and it got a bit slippery. But we all arrived savely at the last camp, overlooking an amazing valley.
It was now time to receive the trophy for this long walk and see Machu Picchu the next day. We had to get up early (4 am) to be in time and before the mass day tourism. After 2 hours of hiking and the Gringo-Killer-Steps, it finally lay in front of me, Machu Picchu! It was still raining but I guess rain was better than clouds, it was my biggest worry that we will not be able to see it due to fog and clouds! Of course many pictures were taken before we walked down to see it close up. It was very impressive and I enjoyed walking around the ruins, even though I was really tired. But here I was, the highlight of my trip to Southamerica.
Unfortunately we got some bad news, the train back to Cusco was delayed and we had to stay in the down below until 6 pm. We wasted time playing cards and were quite released to hop on the train and make the 6 hours journey back to Cusco, were a hot shower and a warm bed awaited us, ahhhhh
We spend another 2 days in Cusco to recover and relaxe and enjoy a good night out in the town.
On Sunday, 2 weeks into the tour, it was time to say goodbye to 4 people of the group, as they were off to the jungle. The remaining 3 and our guide made our way to Puno the next day, a city on the peruan side of Lake Titicaca. The view on the lake once we got close was very nice, deep blue sea in front of snowy mountains on the bolivian side.
We were booked on a trip to the islands on the lake and left the next morning by boat. First we visited the floating island where live seems so easy and far away from the "real" world! Than we headed to the first Island, Isla Amantani, where we also spent the night with a local family. We enjoyed the local food for lunch and walked up the sacred mountains later the afternoon, to see the sunset. Unfortunately there was no sunset, as it was really cloudy. But watching the storm rolling in was equally impressiv. The storm just got release once we reached the village again and poured down with rain! Still we headed out that night to enjoy a local party dressed up in local costumes!
The next day we visited another Island, Taquile, for a walk crossing the Island and lunch before heading back to Puno.
Another guy was leaving the group the next day, while the 2 remaining crossed over into Bolivia and took a local bus to La Paz. La Paz could be seen from far away already, but what I thought was the city was only the beginning. Behind the first houses the city dropped into a valley, and we enjoyed the amazing few during the bus ride. Once dropped our luggage in the hotel we headed out to book the tour for the next day, the downhill bike ride on the Death Road!
The day started early again and we got our gear in town and soon headed out up the mountain. We reached the highest point and got ready for a 64km downhill ride. The first part was on paved road with many curves going down the hill! Full speed we run down the hill and overtook even some slow trucks! Next we got on the real Death Road, a dirt road along steep cliffs falling down hunderds of meters! It was quite an adrenalin rush but I so much enjoyed and survived it! The surroundings were fantastic and the ride ended in the jungle area, a drop of over 3000 meters! The ride was just too short, I could have gone longer!
Back in La Paz, it was the last night of our tour and we headed out for a nice dinner and some goodbye drinks! I really enjoyed this trip and was happy to have done the Inca Trail.
My next stop now is the Salt Desert further south in Bolivia before heading back into Argentina, where I will most propably spend the rest of my trip!



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