Potosi

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May 28th 2009

Published: June 1st 2009

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stavi and kevin

Cerro Rico

Rich Mountain - Potosi

A late night bus and a close encounter with a petrol tanker, we arrived safely in Potosí, the highest city in the world. Set at a mere 4200m (about 14,000ft) above sea level, Potosi was, in its pomp, a city to rival London and larger than Madrid. Also, it contains one of only three Spanish colonial mints (the others were in Lima and Mexico City, fact fans!).

A new city meant another search for a new mirador and the perfect picture. In this case, a great view of Cerro Rico, whose mines furnished the Spanish with a considerable amount of silver. You can visit the mines, but the conditions inside are appalling. Some suggest working in them can reduce life expectancy by at least 15 years. Before entering, all visitors need to visit the miners´ market to buy gifts of coca leaves and dynamite! We opted for some fantastic views of the mountain and the city from the roof top of the San Francisco church.

The church, itself, was very interesting - not something I´m often heard to say. It contains a rather hideous (in my opinion) carving of Jesus from cactus wood. His beard and hair

Stavi´s Mirador

Atop San Francisco Church

are made of human hair, which, until recent times were said to grow. Plus the cacti wood is said to be growing and if it is ever to reach the floor will spell the end of the world....gospel truth naturally! We spent the remainder of our time sat in or around the main square people watching and enjoying the sunshine - some warmth finally after the cold of the salt flats.

Sucre

Our next stop was Sucre, the official capital of Bolivia - a beautiful city of almost entirely white buildings, plus another fantastic square perfect for people watching. Cheating slightly, we took a taxi up to the Mirador restaurant for some fantastic views across the city.

La Paz

We took a night bus to La Paz on the first paved road we´d encountered in Bolivia and awoke to some incredible views down into the city. We stayed in the heart of the witches´ market, where the stall holders sell all manner of trinkets to counter various superstitions (no buckets though Fenia!) and some particularly gruesome llama foetuses.

Our second day in La Paz, found us rather nervously meeting our tour group early ready to

Casa de la Moneda

Potosi - Spanish Colonial Mint

tackle the world´s most dangerous roads on mountain bikes. The first stretch was on asphalt and really good fun, then came the gravel road only 3m wide in places, with a sheer drop on the left. As usual I was the first to fall off, landing safely on my backside and hands! Somewhat shaken, I spent the rest of the ride trying to set the slowest time for descent. Unfortunately, Stavi fared slightly worse in her tumble, caused looking back for the aforementioned slow rider! Despite some badly bruised ribs (still sore at time of writing) and a quite spectacular graze on her elbow, Stavi stubbornly refused to quit and completed the ride in just a little discomfort. Fortunately, our guide saved the worst stories of those less fortunate for the journey back....

Our last day in La Paz found us wandering slowly and somewhat gingerly around the city, indulging in one of our favourite past times - people watching! Despite all the horror stories we´d heard, La Paz was amazing. We both really loved the utter chaos, stalls set up selling anything imaginable on the street, people hanging out of the sides of the various minicabs yelling their