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Published: December 19th 2008
Huayna Potosi is a mountain located in Bolivia, not far and north-west of La Paz. The idea to summit this mountain was initiated by our Dutch friend Jerome who had recently tackled it successfully. He showed Steve some photos and that was all it took - he was hooked. The summit sits at 6088 metres above sea level and although it is a mixed climb with some technical difficulty, not a lot of experience is necessary making it the ideal mountain for us to try.
We did some investigating once we arrived in La Paz and found an agency which offers a 3 day trip for reaching the summit. All equipment required is provided and they work with a ratio of one guide for two people. This agency also owns the refugios (hut accommodations on the mountain) so we knew we would be able to get the best rest possible and a constant supply of food was supplied, an important factor for nourishment when tackling a task of this magnitude (and for Steve just important full stop!). The company is owned and run by a Doctor Hugo, quite the eccentric character, we had the opportunity to meet him while at
the base refugio. He specializes in alpine medical survival and rescue which was a comforting factor.
We are both feeling good about the altitude going in to this trip. We have been above 3000 metres for a couple of weeks now, give or take a day. If we haven't managed to acclimatize by now, I'm not sure we ever will! This still leaves us feeling a little nervous and anxious, only natural when setting out to do something we've never done before. We are as physically prepared as we can be.
We get picked up in the morning on the first day, December 6th. Today will be our first experience with Israeli travellers.The other 3 people joining us are Israeli. FYI - Israelis have a bad reputation here in South America as travellers on the gringo trail. We have only heard some of the stories, haven't actually come across any on our journey so far, so we went in to this with an open mind. I'm pleased to say that our friend Oferh was nothing like the stereotype - he was great. The other two girls were possibly the definition of everything bad that we had heard. We
before...
Huayna Poyosi in backgroundmade a stop on the journey out to the base refugio to collect our gear, try it on and make sure that we were happy with it. Now we were certainly not going to be the most fashionable climbers on the mountain, in fact I think the theory was that the more colours that clashed, the better! The gear was satisfactory although it wasn't long before we realised that Bolivians could learn a thing or two about waterproofing!
The journey to the base refugio took approximately 1.5 hours. We can see the mountain looming ahead of us for most of the drive which is both exciting and intimidating. When we arrive at the base refugio there are two other groups - one group just arriving back from the summit that morning and another group just heading off for the base camp and summit the following morning. The energy is electric and we quiz the groups for as much information as possible, any helpful hints that we can make the most of to be as prepared as possible. I'm not sure that this was a healthy exercise what with one of the girls in the group not making it and
Mining graveyard
Huayna Potosi in background some of the negative comments about the difficulty of the summit climb. Our confidence levels took a bit of a battering following these conversations and as this climb is as much about mental ability as it is physical, we can't afford to be doubting ourselves before we've even begun. The afternoon on this first day is spent at the toe of the Old Glacier, a 1.5 hour hike from the refugio, where we receive instruction and practise techniques on the ice. Our guide at this point is Felicio. His English is very basic, almost non-existent, but his instruction is very clear and thorough. Learning to trust the equipment (ice axes and crampons etc) is the hardest obstacle to overcome. We spend between 1 and 2 hours here before returning back to the base refugio. We have a relaxing evening - plenty of food, playing backgammon and reading by the fire - lots of rest before the big day to follow.
We don't get going until after lunch, about 1pm on day 2, December 7th. It takes some time before this to prepare our gear, making sure we take only what we need. We try hard not to listen too
much to the group returning this morning after the summit, although their body language and facial expressions say it all - complete exhaustion! The theory that I choose to adopt at this point is to break the task down in to manageable sections. All we have to do for the afternoon is make it to base camp at 5200 metres. The hike is about 3-4 hours. The ascent is steep but there is nothing technical about it. We can do this, we've done it before. Maybe not at this elevation but we are capable... It is a difficult hike, we are carrying our gear (we don't require most of it at this point) and this together with the altitude are the challenging factors. It feels as though lead weights have been attached to our legs. We take our time and are relieved to reach base camp at 4pm. We need to start getting ready for the summit climb at about 12:30am, to set off at 1am. We have an early dinner, more because we should not because we want to, and get some sleep, or failing that at least some rest. The good thing at this point is that we
need only carry the necessities with us - camera, water, snacks (normally I would be over the moon to have an excuse to eat chocolate at some random morning hour, but not so much right now). Everything else can be left at base camp and we pick it up on the descent.
The 1am start doesn't seem so bad on day 3, December 8th (we are a little late setting off). To everyone we were with for Macchu Picchu, we will not complain about the 3:45am wake up call ever again! There's not much chatter going on as we get ready to set off. Hiking in the dark seems quite daunting initially but it doesn't take long to realise we are better not seeing! The pace is steady and constant and this goes on for hours. Our guide at the front leading us, Lotty in the middle and Steve at the back. We are all tied together for safety in case of a fall. Every now and then there is a challenge to get through - crossing a crevass or one particular steep section which is basically just vertical for 20 minutes. For the most part we enjoy the
pose...
Training, day 1 rhythm. A million thoughts run through your mind but at the same time nothing at all. There are a whole heap of mind games going on in getting to that summit. For the most part the weather is not great. The cloud rolled in thick when we arrived at base camp the previous afternoon and came and went throughout the night. At times when the sky was clear the stars seemed so close it was tempting to reach out and try and grab them. We saw some incredible shooting stars and also the Southern Cross for the first time in a long while. During the night the ice that we are walking on and surrounding us glows when the moonlight catches it. And then the sun begins to rise which is magic, it lifts our spirits a little. The final 88 metres of that 6088 are definitely the hardest. Mixed climbing begins as the glacier disappears in sections revealing exposed rock and rubble which we have to tackle with crampons still on. I personally crawled to the summit on my hands and knees if I remember correctly. Steve managed to make it with a little more style and dignity on
pose...
Training, day 1 his feet. We are so tired/exhausted/overwhelmed by it all, reaching the summit is very emotional. There were tears, happy ones.
And this is where Steve gets down on one knee and proposes! We think it may have been the serious lack of oxygen that caused the temporary moment of insanity, or perhaps it was because Lotty was tied to Steve with a 2m length of rope... No seriously, it was a very special moment (shared with 2 Bolivians and 1 Israeli crammed into the same 3 metre square patch of ice at 6088m). We both knew that when the deed was eventually done, it would be at the top of some crazy mountain somewhere and we won't be above 6000 metres again for a while I imagine. Perfect time, perfect place...
Now all we have before us is the descent. Sounds simple but in fact this is almost the hardest part. It is about 7am when we are at the summit. It took about 6 hours to reach that point. The entire descent back to the base refugio will take another 6 hours or so, having us arriving at the finishing point shortly after 1pm. The exhaustion completely
Training day 1
Notice the health and safety (there aint none!) takes over. It's funny because although it is cold, we both feel as if we are walking across a desert - incredible dehydration and overheating. The base camp couldn't come soon enough and after a short rest here (a month of rest here wouldn't have seemed long enough) we set off for the final hike to the end. Of our group, only 3 of the 5 make it to the summit. The two Israeli girls turned back at some stage during the night.
Although we have come out of this feeling decidedly less than human for the time being, what an experience! We will always remember Bolivia and being at 6088 metres.
Huayna Potosi - tick!!
Steve & Lotty
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Mim
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Wow!!
Tears welled up in my eyes just reading this particular blog!!! The photos are stunning - your memories of your travels are truly priceless!! Well done guys!! xx