Lost Information Superhighway

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Why god, WHY? While I was loafing in chapare again travelblogs servers crashed losing all my south american entries. But i recovered a little bit which is all shoved into this one entry. Fuck sake.

Im back in cochabamba unexpectedly for one night as im sick and i have to visit a bloody doctor. great.





She works hard for no money

That´s right, I´m Los Tiempos´bitch. I work 12,13 hour days, five days a week, gratis. I´m not even writing my geeky finance shit. I have been made temporary culture editor of sorts, since the man himself, the very nice Michel Zelada, is on holidays and there is no one working for him, so I´m mucking in. Not exaclty what I had envisaged for this extra month working for the paper as a non-volunteer, freelance type: the whole idea of surrendering one month of my holiday to slavery is to gather a nice body of work in a national daily broadsheet that the editors of finance magazines back home can see, marvel at, and give me a job having ´nuff proof that I´m not a complete retard and that I not only learned spanish in three months but also interviewed and wrote in it for a very important paper, learned about south american business and politics enough to commentate on it professionally, and generally kicked arse. Reviewing jazz bands and profiling leading archaeologists wasnt part of the master plan. And its fucking hard work: although she has repeatedly offerered her help, I´ve not taken Ximena up on her offer to translate my stuff, largely because by the time I have pinned down my interviewees (literally - in Bolivia you do a lot of chasing people round town, people are normally 1-2 hours late for everything, they are confused and disorganised!), chatted to them, transcribed the interview into english, and written the story in english, the office where Xime works is long closed. Ive been using Babelfish Online Translator which, as it says, gives the gist, but not much more: it translated the name Dizzy Gillespie as Gillespie de Drunk" in Spanish, and translates "Band" as "makes".... I always have to sit with LuzMi and she helps put it right, but its tiring, embarassing (I dont like people changing my work even if only to correct the language! interferes with my massive ego) and I´m never sure if it will read the way I wrote it when it is published. But I have no choice. However, it´s still nice when you ride the bus to work the next morning and see some bloke sat in front of you, reading your story. I have something pretty much every day. But I´m not that proud of the work I have done this week. I felt before I started that I wouldnt enjoy non financial reporting as much as my geeky economics stuff, because I think any eegit with a pen and a brain can write about how much they love this band or that painting... but it takes more to turn dry financial stuff into something a person can read from start to finish, and enjoy - its this that I love to do, its business that makes my head start asking questions. I´m now trying out my theory and I think it´s been proven. I am ewnjoying it more today because I feel I got two great interviews that will make great copy, but I never get the same feeling of achievement of the same level of interest from cultural stuff that I always do from economics. I´m just weird like that. Its weirder when I think how much I love music. But I dont want music to be my job-that would ruin it. The odd bit of freelance is fine though.

Speaking of culture, theres a bloke here at the newsroom, an editor, who wears a beret... Cocked to one side... With Ray-Bans. I cant decide if he´s brilliant, or a tosser. He sits next to a guy who looks like Salvador Dali. Periodismo: un lugar de personalidades especiales.... o un depósito para los extraños y los geeks de la biblioteca?

Points about the differences between UK journalism and Bolivian journalism:

*No, or almost no press releases in Bolivia, to rely on for fact checking
*No websites or news sites for source work
*Much less office based here - more face to face, almost entirely so, for interviews
*Less organisation and backup for journalists on holiday
*More flexibility for changing agenda in Bolivia
*Working slower and longer in Bolivia - not particularly sensible I think


X

One no shite piece

This will be published on Sunday 23rd July in Los Tiempos. I much prefer doing my little mini features. LuzMi said she loved it but she had to jizz about with it a lot because I write like an English journalist and I am being published in a Bolivian newspaper. That is a bit shite but quite entertaining when I sit with LuzMi as she goes through my work and starts wetting herself at the translation - in this piece when I say that they want to give somethng back to ther city, it translates as, "We got somuch from cochabamba, so we want to give them our arse ." I also had trouble explaining the concept of a beer cooler and the "Kiss Me, I´m Irish" saying. But LuzmI finds it all very entertaining and cringes when she has to cut stuff out, largely because its so fucking funny and she, being a woman of good taste and high intelligence, knows it would make excellent reading for our sunday morning readers - all 40,000 of the Sunday edition faithfuls. (40´s pretty small but you have to take account of the very low literacy rate in Bolivia and the size of cochabamba). Their market saturation is top.

It is now 1.40 am on Saturday morning and I am just leaving the office. This was a hardcore week of daily newspaper journalism. Flying by the seat of my pants. By the skin of my teeth. By hair of the dog. Twas fun. I´m fucking knackered. But I think I love midnight journalism.

I should note for any hacks reading, I use stuff like "did not" instead of "didn´t" in my stuff for LT because if I don´t the translation is all fucked up.

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“Cochabamba has a lot of young artists. We just want to give them a platform”

-The owners of Na Cunna tell Melanie Stern why they want to make their Irish pub a place for Cochabamba´s underground art and music scene

The week Cochabamba had a bread crisis, myself and Fiona Lovely, one of the owners of the city´s first Irish pub Na Cunna, are sat on a futon style couch in the living room of her lovably aged Colonial style apartment on Calle España, eating banana bread and sipping Irish tea. The light of late afternoon cuts through the windows and falls onto the far wall, plastered with typical paintings of chollitas, sketches of art school nudes, pieces of ribbon, and poetry scribbled on scraps of waste paper. For her and Emma Ni Lauchra, who live here together, it could not be any other way: both came to Cochabamba over two years ago with Irish charity LASCO, to bring art therapy to street children, and both come from a background in Ireland, Europe, that supports creative expression.

So why did they decide to open the first Irish pub in Cochabamba?

“It is quite bizarre - we did not even come up with the idea,” Fiona recalls. “Emma went home for Christmas last year and I had left LASCO but stayed here to paint. Manuel came to me and asked if I had ever wanted to open a pub. I had to tell him really, no! But he said that Emma wanted to, so it was an idea that came out of that conversation. We had been here for a couple of years or more so we knew the city, and we thought Cochabamba could potentially use an Irish pub.” Three months later, Na Cunna was welcoming its first customers.

The pub has already made a name for itself, not just in Cochabamba but in other cities in Bolivia like La Paz and Santa Cruz - spreading by word of mouth through the thriving backpacker scene, as Irish pubs are popular places for young tourists to meet in almost every country, all over the world. Na Cunna is spoiled with a captive market in a country where it is one of only a handful of Irish pubs, and the hallmarks of an Irish pub are evidenced in the vintage Guinness advertising posters and the essential “Kiss Me, I Am Irish” beer mug cooler on the bar. But anyone heading there to see a traditional Irish pub - tourists or Bolivians - is in the wrong place. The concept of Fiona and Emma is to bring a taste of their homeland to locals, but with an added edge, or more specifically, an artistic edge. They are working hard on developing a regular agenda of acts to perform in the space they have created specially for this purpose, from artists, to photographers, films, poetry, writing, nights of regional foods and anything else they can get their hands on. The idea of the first “Irish Art Pub” in Bolivia is the result of the wish of Fiona and Emma to instigate a strong scene for young creative people in Cochabamba, who want to showcase their talents and passions.

“We want to give young artists an opportunity who would not normally have a chance to present their work. I had a lot of encouragement to keep making art when I was younger so I wanted to give that to people here - and we feel that Cochabamba has been good to us, so we want to give something back,” says Fiona. “We want to promote the work of young people, help them promote themselves, to let Cochabamba see that this talent exists here. Most artists in Cochabamba will never get to exhibit their work in a gallery because they have to usually pay to do that, and it is expensive.” In its first three months, Na Cunna has had an exhibition of work by the street children Fiona and Emma work with, a book reading by a first-time author who writes about the rich history of typical food from Tarija, a night celebrating Irish novel writer James Joyce - who wrote Ulysses - and various music groups have played, including popular Bolivian “grunge” band, Oil, and Manzana, both of whom are set to return soon. The mixture of events at Na Cunna has attracted a good balance of Bolivians and tourists - 2007 has seen a record number of foreign visitors to a city that usually doesn´t see many - and now enjoys a number of Bolivians who come for lunch and dinner.

Na Cunna has the potential to be an important place for the youth of Cochabamba, and a catalyst for development and progression, more than just a meeting place for tourists hungry for a taste of home and a chance to speak English with the bar employees. In fairness, Cochabamba has been criticized before for its lack of creative gusto. While it has a wealth of theatres, cinemas, and galleries, the predominant type of expression in the city is still traditional Bolivian culture - the ubiquitous painting of a chollita with her plaits and traditional hat, or discs of traditional Andean pipe music that are easy to find in any of Cochabamba´s markets. These get an equal stage at Na Cunna too - indeed, Emma and Fiona are keen to help tourists get to know their host country´s culture as well as helping Bolivians who want to learn about other countries - but they, like other young people in the city, want people to know how much creative expression of different kinds there is waiting to be discovered in Cochabamba. “There is something of this kind beginning to happen around Calle España right now, with different cafes and galleries, but I talk with a lot of young artists and musicians here and I think the arts need to be promoted a lot more here, by the galleries and by the people,” Fiona believes. “I know they are already in some ways, but everything is quite traditional and young people want more.” She mentions the youth show on Channel 9 in Cochabamba, run by young people for young people, and the sort of issues they discuss. The pair also do not see any reason why all sections of Cochabambiño society cannot contribute and enjoy what they want to do - for example, the street kids they worked with on the art therapy project, who they still visit every Sunday. “Painting gives the children time to be quiet and just enjoy working with the paints,” says Fiona. “Some of them are very talented.” The pair also had a group of young people who publish a fanzine for fans of the Gothic music and fashion scene, Pierrot, containing original art and poetry, providing one window into what young Cochabambaiños are thinking and saying in 2007.

That said, Na Cunna is still an Irish pub, even if it is also an art space and a restaurant. It has a “snug” - a quiet area hidden away where you can have a coffee and read a book in peace, for example, which almost every pub in Ireland has - and if you want to hear the regional Irish accents, you need only go to the bar and ask for Emma or Fiona. Guinness, they say, is on the way. But in tandem with what places like mARTadero and Centro Pedagógico Cultural Símon I. Patiño are trying to do, these two Irish girls could be part of a movement that will relieve Cochabamba of its curious cultural condition: being one of Bolivia´s most “progressive” cities, while at the same time being one of its least contemporary minded.

Bye bye

Well. This Wednesday I leave Cochabamba and the little life I created here for myself, to continue with the last six weks of my trip before coming home. I feel a bit guilty at leaving my host family, Angelica, Andi, Maria Jose and Sebastien, because they´ve become a real family to me and the idea that I don´t know when I will se them again is painful now that I fel s close to the girls. I marched Maria Jose (my host mum´s niece, now a very good friend of mine) to the nearest internet cafe in town on Saturday to introduce her to the delights of the information superhighway, and to set her up a Hotmail and Facebook account. I hope she at least checks them once a month and if she does, she´ll find my updates there. I really don´t want to lose touch with her. I think more people should take after MJ: she´s a complex character no doubt, but her policy of total, brutal honesty and unrelenting torrent of sarcasm and swear words is exactly what this planet needs in this, most confused of centuries. I´m so used to sutting with her and the family at the dinner table every saturday lunchtime arguing about pretty much everything (shes a born agitator - if i say yes she says no just to pis me off) and learning so much about Bolivian culture in the meantime, it is so much fun and I feel so close to her now, I´m definitely going into a period of mourning when its all over and we cant do that anymore. I asked her to send me a christmas card with just the message "DROP DEAD BITCH" since its our personal greeting to one another. What a girl.

Andi turns 15 in October and I´ve promised to phone her on the day since I will be back home. 15 in England doesnt have significance but in Bolivia it carries a lot of weight and is cause for a big celebration. She reminds me a lot of my sister, though the worlds they live in are so different, they have a few striking similarities (music taste - AC/DC!), ways of thinking.... I´m always impressed by how much studying she does, sitting up till god knows when every night doing her equations and her enginering stuff which is like Greek to me, and her drive. And her personality is brilliant. I know she´s gonna go far and I only hope she keps me posted. I´m so used to sitting on her bed with her watching VH1 and talking about boys, it´s gonna be weird not doing that.

What about Angelica! My host mum is amazing, full stop. The language barrier has been a challenge as she has no english (but also fun when andi, maria jose and i need to discuss something without her knowing, like boys, at the dinner table), but somehow we always manage to communicate and understand each other well. I never quite got used to being waited on hand and foot, something it sems she really likes to do, but I definitely got too used to her amazing cooking and sampling her array of typical bolivian foods - chicharron, yucca, mote, sopas, and her unbelievable queques - which maria jose and andi reckon have contributed to me losing a lot of weight, because she cooks so healthily and with only fresh stuff from the markets. I think there must be some truth in that because I still eat like a pig and Angelica force feds me cake most days much like how farmers force fed ducks to make foie gras. She sits and watches me put half a cake away and seems to take genuine pleasure from it! Im not a bloater after all this feeding so I think the girls might be onto something. I will really try to switch to a big lunch and a tiny dinner or snack when I get home, though in the winter you cant beat coming home from a hard days journalising and cooking a massive stir fry and washing it down with a big cold irn bru in front of channel 4 news... If anything Angelicas way of doing things is both tasty and healthy, but time consuming and expensive (defo to buy all those fresh things in London), so it has plus points). I meant to devote a blog to her dishes, but I never got round to taking photos since I was busy gannetting her creations. Aside from her culinary talents, Angelica is a really special person, she is endlessly patient with my crappy spanish and she is so accepting and open, she made me fel so at home right away, and then asking me to stay another month after I finished voluntering - for which she gets no money - was the best thing that could have happened, allowing me to work for Los Tiempos without pay and get to know her family better, and lving there was onbviously way better than staying in some shitty, cold hosepdaje for a month.

Apart from that, I´ve made friends in Cochabamba who I will miss. Danielito was a person I came across through my flickr photo website maybe four years ago, when I first thought about doing the TAPA journalism project and wanted to know what was up in Cochabamba, looking for people from the city on flickr and Dani´s name was the only one that came up. We emailed since then and we have hung out a few times in CBBA. That was an amazing piece of luck on my part and now he and his gf Alicia are moving to Australia next year, who knows, they might make it to the UK. I'm not looking forward to saying goodbye to Xime from TAPA. When I first met her I thought she looked scary as fuck, she has very serious eyes (stunningly big and beautiful too) and I thought it would be best not to mess with her. But we became really good friends as she was my editor on the Cocha Banner, and she is as much in love with music as I am so we get on well because of that. But also she is one of the most spirited, hard working, passionate people Ive met. I respect her so much for the work she puts in with the volunteers. Carmen, also working for TAPA, has become my clubbing partner and friend, I´m gonna miss her so much too.

I feel like Ive become a bit of a cochabambiño, and its nice knowing how to get the trufis to stop, living and working in cocha which is a cool city, low on sights but high on personality and buzz. I guess I have my roytine now which includes working for the city´s paper, lunching with my family, la tinana with carmen on saturdays, and admiring the cordillera from the balcony as i do my washing on saturday mornings. That said, when was I ever a fan of routine? As cosy as I am, it is time to move on. (*cue the littlest hobo theme tune*)

I´m glad I stayed the extra time with Los Tiempos, I was miffed about not being paid in the end, but it was an amazing experience and I can now say that Ive worked in newspapers and magazines, and a daily at that. I think I achieved more or less what I hoped to out of it, though I still wish I could have done more economics stuff, but Ive tested out my skills in culture and local reporting, and found it to me a mixed bag in terms of how fun it is. It was good, but I am still in love with economics journalism and I will be jumpinh into my Zara suit and heading out to harass londons editors as soon as I can to find another job in that area. But now I fel I could do more with my knowledge of south american economics and politics, though i know only a bit. Working with the team at LT was a great experience: I only wish I had more time to work with each department. The production editor was a very friendly man and I was really interested to watch him work. And working full time, instead of just the mornings, gave me the feeling of working in a proper daily newsroom: complete with CNN rolling news on tap!! The night editors and main journalists all tend to work later and come in late, which is exactly how I prefer to work, and there is always a feeling of camerarderie (hate that word) to a newsroom of hacks and designers slogging away at midnight or later and doling out more cups of black coffee and maybe some empanadas. LuzMi, my editor, is a lovely person and she works so hard, and I enjoyed working under the culture editor Michel, Luz Mi, econmics editor Maria Julia, and head of editorial, Ely. It was definitely quite a mental experience too, not only because of the doubling of work with the translation of every interview and story from english to spanish, but also because the way they work her is different to back home and is less desk based, more about chasing sources round town all day and actually going out to talk face to face. I never used any email or web sources, not once. For a UK journalist I guess those tools are like our placentas. Its so odd to go without. But I stuck to the job and made it through anyway.

All thats left is to say thanks to everyone I leave behind in Cocha for making this experience so worth it - when I think about the first day I looked into doing this placement, I could never have known what i was in for or how it would shape my life. I have a tea party with my family tomorrow night, lunch with ximena in the local sushi bar, and then I´m off to the jungle for a couple of days while i plan my route on to brazil.

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The last piece for Los Tiempos
South America » Bolivia » Cochabamba By onehorsetown
July 30th 2007

melWas published on Sunday 29th.


Puerto Villarroel desea convertirse en un asilo del eco-turismo, pero debe encontrar un equilibrio entre la venta hacia fuera y preservar su paraíso de la selva

Paraíso Oculto

Por Melanie Stern

Si usted toma el surubí que va de Cochabamba a la zona turística mas popular del Chapare, Villa Tunari un poco mas allá está Ivirgazama y dobla a la izquierda encontrará las orillas del río Ichilo, y Puerto Villarroel, un pueblo de 2000 personas. Este no tiene ninguna de las comodidades que podría encontrar en Villa Tunari, como ser baños, cafés, Internet, hoteles y discotecas, sin embargo esto se compensa con la tranquilidad y la imponente naturaleza, lo que lo hace un lugar muy atractivo si quiere un escape de la vida de la ciudad

Puerto Villarroel entra mas en la imagen de la selva tropical, donde se empieza a ver las casa tradicionales del lugar junto a la selva y el río, este viaje de 5 horas de Cochabamba a Ivirgarzama pasando el parque Tunari pasando la laguna Corani al descender se aprecia más vegetación mecida por las nubes, es un preámbulo increíble del Chapare, al pasar los diferentes pueblos se percibe la biodiversidad.

Los pueblos del Chapare están influenciados por el comercio de la coca sin embargo el Comité Cívico de Puerto Villarroel que consta de cinco representantes a la cabeza de Jorge Yale decidieron buscar una alternativa para promover el ecoturismo en este paradisíaco lugar.

Michael y Sabrina son los 2 únicos extranjeros en el pueblo ahora, que trabajan apoyando a la comunidad restaurando la guardería local; ellos dicen que el clima es hermoso, que toda la gente se conoce, y es un lugar ideal para estar en contacto con la naturaleza, pero para el extranjero que se siente atraído por el encanto que brinda Puerto Villarroel esta búsqueda de Yale pondría convertirse en una tragedia, puesto que esa tranquilidad se desvanecería.

Aparte de la ayuda que pueda brindar USAID, Puerto Villarroel esta solo, de acuerdo al presidente del Comité Cívico, la mayoría de los recursos se quedar en Ivirgarzama, y dado que la alcaldía hoy por hoy esta trabajando allá lo que queda para Puerto Villarroel no es suficiente para sostener y promover el turismo.

Por otro lado esta el peligro de que muchas veces la selva tropical se ve amenazada, por la tala indiscriminada de los cocaleros que buscan extender sus plantaciones de coca, afectando a las poblaciones indígenas, Yuqui, Yuracaré y Trinitarios sin mencionar que el gobierno no se da cuenta que la madera que se ha sacado podría perfectamente beneficiar a estas comunidades, por que los recursos naturales son un patrimonio cultural dice Jorge Yale; agregando que los productos y residuos químicos de la elaboración de la cocaína se descarga en los ríos y esto contamina el ecosistema y mata a los peces

El Comité Cívico aspira dotar con infraestructura básica, esto incluiría mejor de calles y avenida, servicios médicos, saneamiento, limpieza de áreas verdes y un plan para que las familias habiliten un espacio para rentarlo a los turistas y de esta manera fomentar el turismo sostenible crean un margen de ganancia para la población.

Jorge Yale dice que están seguros que ellos podrían ser el modelo a seguir por las otras comunidades indígenas como una alternativa a la economía de la coca.


ENGLISH VERSION

Puerto Villarroel wants to become an eco-tourist haven, but must find a balance between selling out and preserving its jungle paradise

Hidden Haven

If you stay on the bus linking Cochabamba with Chapare´s most popular tourist destination, Villa Tunari, as far as Ivirgazama - then squeeze into a colectivo, you reach the end of the road, the banks of the river Ichilo, and Puerto Villarroel, a village of 200 people. Puerto has almost no tourist visitors even though its proximity to Villa Tunari makes an easy day trip - and it has none of the facilities Tunari has. But what it lacks in public toilets, hotels, restaurants and internet cafes, it makes up for in stunning tranquility and natural heritage, and it is this that makes it a more appealing place for those who seek an escape from civilisation.

Puerto fits the image one expects of the rainforest. Traditional estiló camba punctuate lush jungle vegetation on the road to the village, and the river. The five-hour bus ride from Cochabamba to Ivirgazama through the Cordillera Tunari, past pine forests and lakes, later ascending into steamy jungle vegetation cradled by clouds, is an incredible introduction to Chaparé; travelling through neighbouring villages gives you a good idea of how different life is there. These villages, like most in Chapare, are financed by the coca trade - but Puerto´s comité civico of five representatives including Jorge Yale, their president, has decided to find an alternative income with the creation of eco-tourism in their little corner of paradise.

Now, there are just two tourists in Puerto, 19 year old Sabrina and her boyfriend Michel from Switzerland, who are here working for free restoring the local Guardería. “I like it here because I all the people know each other, and the climate is beautiful,” Sabrina says. “For me the most important thing about Puerto is the chance that we have to meet local people. It is a special place, especially for Europeans because we do not have the rainforest.”

But for a tourist who has fallen in love with Puerto for these reasons, Jorge´s plan could be a tragedy. The unique selling point that Puerto Villarroel has is this tranquillity. To imagine Puerto full of video camera-carrying tourists is sad. Jorge is aware of this and is keen to avoid over selling.

Puerto could benefit from tourism but, aside from assistance from USAID, the town must do it alone. Abstaining from the coca trade has meant estrangement from other towns, while the alcaldia of Puerto works in Ivirgazama - a designated “red area” for the coca trade, though the number of shiny four-wheel drive cars with 2007 registration plates in Ivirgazama mark out real coca territory - so financial and moral support are not available. Half of the money earmarked for Puerto Villarroel is spent in Ivirgazama, Jorge says, and the other half is not enough to do much with. But Puerto is determined to bring the concept of sustainability, something new in Bolivia, to tourists in Chaparé.

This trade is counter to Puerto´s eco-tourism plan. Cocaleros cut down areas of rainforest to extend coca and marihuana plantations in what is supposedly protected land belonging to indigenous populations like the Yuqui, Yuracaré and Trinitario. “The government does not realize that we can make money without cutting down trees,” says Yale. “Eco-tourism is a good alternative because our main resources here are nature and cultural heritage.” He adds that there are a lot of chemical by-products from cocaine production dumped into the rivers damaging the local eco-system and killing fish stocks.

The comité civico wants to build basic infrastructure, including better streets, gardens, medical services, and better sanitation. There is a plan for families to rent one room from their homes to tourists, for a home-stay experience that will enable sustainable tourism.

“We believe we can be a model for change in Chaparé, an example for indigenous communities here to see how they can survive in a sustainable way. Tourism is part of that.”

Puerto Villarroel: Facts

How to get there: Take a trufi or taxi directly to Ivirgazama, which should cost around 30-40 bolivianos, from the corner of Oquendo and Av. Republicá. They leave regularly throughout the day and take 3-5 hours. From Ivirgazama take a colectivo to Puerto Villarroel, which takes 40 minutes and costs under 5 bolivianos.

Where to stay: There are three hostels -Sucre, Eco Amazonas, and Jasmin. You can walk to them from the main plaza.

What to do: Relax! Have lunch at El Cliper - the tourist information centre that has an airy café attached - to sample the local fried fish. Take a walk on the hidden path along the river to the sandy beach: take a book and soak up the serenity of the jungle. Later, grab a table under the tin roof at La Rocola on the main plaza, order an ice-cold bottle of Taquiña, and listen to the jukebox. Then walk across the street where you can dance with the locals until the sun comes up.

Trips from Puerto Villarroel: Villa Tunari for the national park, treks, and monkey reserve. Occasional cargo boats take passengers to Trinidad, taking five days.

Eco-tourism: If you want to help Puerto develop, inquire in El Cliper about helping to restore the local guardería, or constructing the farm project which is run by Cochabamba-based volunteer organisation, Projects Abroad (www.projects-abroad.co.uk)

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