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Published: April 8th 2008
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Deeper into the Patagonian wilderness we find the small town of El Chaltén. Boasted as one of the youngest towns in Argentina its presence was created to stake a claim on the land before neighboring Chile could. Virtually in the middle of nowhere it is nothing but a frontier town, but quickly growing to provide for the ever increasing mass of tourist. So why is this place so popular, well all you have to do is look out on a clear day over the town and see the rugged face of Cerro Fitz Roy, a massive granite peak towering over the landscape.
Arriving in El Chaltén after a lovely two day bus ride through arid plains (which is what most of Patagonia looks like) I was thrust into the icy air of this windy little town while clouds hovering over the surrounding mountains masked the famous Cerro Fitz Roy and the infamous Cerro Torre.
This is the type of town where nature makes itself present if not by the landscape then by the lashing winds and freezing rain, but its all worth it once you catch that first glimpse of the Fitz Roy range. So after a day
of preparation we headed out to do a three day trek in the crowded but still impressive Parque De los Glaciares.
Compared to Bariloche this was a dream hike. A three hour trail of subtle hills and streams led us into our campground. Despite the crowds, the wilderness was amazing. Stepping a few feet out of my tent the massive Fitz Roy loomed over the valley with its icy granite walls hiding among swirls of clouds and mist.
Unfortunately the next day brought cold rain and wind, but I did not break my budget at REI for nothing. Decked out out in our rain gear we headed to a Glacier known as Piedras Blancas ( white rocks ). A massive boulder field separated the trail from the glacier and climbing over the rocks combined with heavy wind often posed difficulties, but we arrived without incident.
Usually a crowded location we found it empty due to the rain. The glacier itself was more like a waterfall frozen in space as it twisted down the rock. Giant spires of deep blue ice jutted from the glacier as it snaked its way to the lake at its base.
The
mesmerizing silence was shattered when a piece of ice as large as a bus came thundering down the face of the glacier. It was a startling view of power and one which I would later wait hours for at various glaciers in Patagonia.
The next day the weather cleared and we hiked up to the viewing point of Laguna de los Tres. After a bit of waiting the Fitz Roy came out of the icy mist and showed the cold rock that has claimed many climbers lives. As descriptive as I could try and be the glaciers, lakes and granite faces of that view are something to experience in person. I found it hard to hike down knowing that that would be one of my most memorable views of my entire trip.
We hiked out that day back to town to meet up with my cousin since she was in the same town in the same country on the same continent so far away from home. And as fate would have it we ended at the same hostel as well. But due to the fact that she left at 1AM the next morning we hadn't much time, but
Dinner
Mashed potatoes, steak and wine. enough to get a steak dinner and few drinks out of her.
So it was time for one last adventure in El Chaltén. The most popular tour in the area takes you on a trek to the Glacier Torre and includes ice trekking and crossing a fixed rope over a river. I was in no way about to do that, what I mean to say there is not way I am going to take a tour to do that when I can rent the equipment and do it for a tenth of the price. So that's what we did. Tasha was a bit worried about my experience level, but its all common sense.
Unfortunately on the first attempt we got a late start and got lost which meant retreating near the base of the glacier. But despite the fact that it was an exhausting experience we geared up and headed out again after a day of rest.
The river crossing was probably the most fun and eventful experience of the hike. I was thankful I was not one of the hikers who looked on enviously as we headed across the river to more wild territory.
Patagonia
This is what most of Patagonia looks like. The second time round we were able to find the trail to the glacier. The glacier was kind of a strange place to be. Pockets of deep blue ice and glacial streams plunging to unknown depths were scattered all over the glacier. Though I had heard the glacier was safe I still felt a bit uneasy when I heard a river of icy water flowing only a few meters beneath me. But we survived and made it back to camp.
So we said goodbye to El Chaltén and made it to El Calafate where the Glaciar Perito Moreno draws a massive amount of tourists. I am sure you are getting sick of hearing about glaciers and mountains so I will just say that Glaciar Perito Moreno was spectacular. Though overrun by tourism the crashing thunder of ice as small as a baseball makes the experience all worth it, but seeing a hundred foot tower of ice come crashing down makes it unforgettable.
Next stop Chilean Patagonia...
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jason
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Your "jumping for joy" picture is so fantastically gay it should go on a postcard. Heck, if you've got a good enough picture we should print and frame the darn thing. I love it! *winks*