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Published: February 23rd 2007
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WEEK 11 THE DESERT
Our bus from San Juan to San Augustin de Valle Fertil was delayed as a metal strip from the bus twisted and shredded an inner back tyre. We limped and rumbled along to a 'gomeria' ( wonderful term!) where the tyre was replaced . Fortunately we were only a few miles from San Juan - we could have been in the middle of the desert on our 4 hours journey north. This is the first breakdown in over 7000k - so I have been lucky!
San Augustin de Valle Fertil lies among the Sierra Papeanas, gentle sedimentary mountains cut by canyons. This lower altitude valley has water and irrigation which permits some agriculture for vines and a shady plaza. The town is now a gate way to Ischigualasto National Park 80K north and Talampaya National Park some 58 K further north.
Ischigualasto and Talmpaya are UNESCO Natural World Heritage Sites designated in 2000. Both are located in a sedimentary basin which is the only known location where a complete sequence of continental sediments from the Triassic Period of the Mesozoic Era are exposed on the surface. Strong earth movements 65m years ago upturned and
exposed the 230m-285m year old Triassic deposits which contain fossil remains providing information about the early paleoenvironments and fossil bones of the oldest known dinosaur - Eoraptor lunensis. (At this time only one continent- Pangaea - existed with a cool and humid coastal climate but a hot central zone with great deserts. Where lakes and rivers existed large trees and ferns grew and halfway through this period reptiles and dinosaurs evolved. Some creatures were trapped and encased in mud or blowing sand and became the fossilised remains of dinosaurs and creatures living at the time which renders the areas of great scientific significance.)
Ischigualasto is a desert valley between two sedimentary mountain ranges, the Cerros Colarados in the east and the Cerros Los Rastros in the west. (Valley de la Luna.) Over millenia wind erosion and the intermittent Rio Ischigualasto has carved distinctive shapes in the malleable red sandstones, monochrome clay and volcanic ash producing a bare rocky moonscape of incredible shapes and colours due to oxidised minerals. Famous are the Sphinx and the Hongo (mushroom) and almost perfect spherical balls.
Talampaya compares to Utah's canyon country. 150 m vertical sandstone cliffs hang high above the canyon floor
with incredible surface features. Condors circled over head and we saw a rhea- ( emu ). The canyon is believed to be an old drove road and trading route with prehistoric petroglyphs of carvings depicting guancos (llamas), lizards and men . We were the only visitors - and we experienced a wonderful atmosphere of wilderness and peace.
It was at San Augustin Valle Fertil that Fe left her shorts in the shower. Unfortunately it was only when she discovered that they were missing that she remembered her cards and purse were in the pockets. An elderly Argentian couple who were staying on the hospedaje were very concerned and everyone joined hands and prayed for Fe and the safe return of her belongings. Unfortunately they could not be found -but the cards were reported lost and Fe only lost a small amount of cash.
Feeling rather moved by the support of the old couple Fe offered them a tin of sardines -which they gratefully accepted!
Back to San Juan where I enjoyed my second stay in a lovely hostel run by 2 pleasant young gents. They welcomed me back with a hug and kiss! They were fascinated by hypnosis
Sphinx
valle de la Lune so we had a very enjoyable session. I do hope that he has come back to full awareness by now!
It was in San Juan that I ordered a rather tasty lomo sandwich. (Fried beef, ham, cheese, lettuce and tomato.) It tasted great until I found a feather in the lettuce! They kindly replaced the sandwich with great apologies. On my second visit I returned and ordered another lomo sandwich sin pluma (no feathers) Everyone laughed and the chef rushed out and smiled and said he would make sure that there were no feather in it! Argeninians have a wonderful sense of humour!
The bus from San Juan to La Rioja was 2 hours late. We actually joined it for a 6 hours stretch of its journey - quite a small proportion considering it was on its was from Bariloche to Pocito on the border with Bolivia.The total route must have been over 2000K and would have taken over 40 hours. Drivers change along the route and sandwiches and coffee are porvided so that the bus never has to stop for any legth of time. It did make us conscious of only getting tickets for buses which were
Spherical balls
Valle de la Luna Parque Ischigualasto starting their journeys from where we wanted to travel from.
The bare foothills of the Andes flanked our route to the west - and to the east sandy desert spotted with small shrubs and bushes stretched as far as the eye could see. It was cut by dry wadi river beds with occasional glistening white salt pans. Further north from higher ground we looked down on an endless sea of bushy green topped shrubs. Along the sandy verges occasional red and white bloom mats of tiny flowers added to the interest and tall yellow daisy flowers waved around in the strong wind. Occasional twisters swirled sand high into the air and shook the bus as we drove through them.
We passed little habitation -small hamlets surrounded by bare eroded sandy stretches- a herd of goats - children in a donkey cart and clusters of poplar trees shading and sheltering small adobe dwellings where water was available. Amazingly as we approached La Rioja -patches of seemingly barren scrub desert land was cleared and totally transformed. Lines of coniferous were planted for shelter and vast areas of olive groves and vines planted.
La Rioja was busy with a
festival and we were billited to the outskirts -the last room in the town we were told! It was however near to a large supermarket where Fe could buy her natural yoghurt and supplyof vegetables. Close by was a party shop.I have never seen anything like it. A large shop with everything for celebrations - hats, masks, streamers, paper cups and plates, cake decorations, candles -but a great variety of each including 30 different packets of ballons!
WE movedon next day to Chilecito.
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Margaret
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Seeds?
Any of these interesting flowers dropping seeds into the trouser turnups? Sounds good to us!