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Published: October 31st 2006
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Bolivian Trains
Alive and kicking, although somewhat low in number Well, i´ve finally made it to Argentina, but the how was quite something. I think i gave a new meaning to the term speed travel. More about first impressions about Argentina after the travelling mayhem that got me here,
Well, after leaving Machi Picchu (so glad thats the last time i have to spell it) i jumped on a bus back to Cusco. Dont think beofre i mentioned much about Ollentaytambo, but i kicked around for a while to take it in and played a little guitar to relax. Then after leaving Cusco i got on the first of what was to be many modes of transport.
The first bus through Peru was palletable, but made a trial due to the sizable (i´m looking for a kind word but failing) Bolivian lady next to me squashed in the back row with all manner of blankets, boxes and strange looking objects in large plastic bags. It quite amazing what Bolivian (she was from Bolivia although this bus was in Peru) women can fit inside thier blankets on thier back. The classic image of a snail like creature carrying all and sundry in one blanket it quite true of the country.
Ollentaytambo Ruins and some fool
The guitar was to be played after lugging all the way to MP for no reason Hopefully this tradition wont die out, but newer generations of Bolivian girls seem to be shunning the idea for mre western appearances. Shame. Anywho, off we went all the way to the Bolivia border, through Puno and along a truely dreadfully paved road. Also we had to cross lake Titicata again, this time in the light of day i was horrified to see the precarious angle of the bus on its small launch - i´d been sprared the view previously thanks to the cover of darkeness.
Back at the Bolivian border i must admit it was a relief. Strange word to use but i´s the right one. I never really got on with Peru unfortunately, which is sad because i´ve met so many people who´ve said it was fantastic. As soon as we crossed over i again felt the slower pace of life, the lack of people pestering you for money and the joy of understanding currency again (its more or less 10 Bolivianos to the pound).
After a couple of hours stop in Copacabana it was onwards to La Paz with the breathtaking as you look form El Alto (on the top of the hill) down into
crossing lake titicata
no problem.. sort of. it only broke down once on the crossing. the city proper. La Paz once again provided entertainment for a night, mainly by way of the facsinating markets, and particularly a music shop. After much talking with the owner he persueded me that it was a good idea to by a Charanga (a mini traditional Bolivian guitar), so beware at home as the tones of Bolivia will be coming.
Up early the next morning (sunday 29th) i dilly dallyed long and hard about where to go next and suddenly heard of a random once a week train which went from nearby Oruro to the Argentine border. So i hopped on a bus to Oruro and was there by 3pm. A quick sad note at this point and a word of warning to those travelling in Bolivia in Colectivos (small mini vans similar to those described in my Machi Picchu - pants! i´ve had to spell it again - blog). These things are dangerous and checking the tyres if only briefly is pretty much a must before getting on. Sadly i was witness to a pretty horrific crash on the road out of La Paz due to a tyre blow out. Very messy and it certainly makes you think.
The Craziness that is La Paz
Third time through and i still find this view totally amazing All was due to the clearly completely bald tyres i could see. boo.
Anyway, after arrival in Oruro my slick planning went all to pot as it turned out the train which was menat to be the next day was just about to leave. Bye bye to a shower and a nice meal in Oruro, Hello general panic and speedy ticket purchasing. Luckily i did make it on, and so thus i was able to experience the brilliance of Bolivian trains.
Now, my last experience was not the best with these boys. From Chile to Bolivia i had a 9 hour wait at the border and generally slowness and incompitence throughout. This ride could not have been more different. It was a class act. Simple. Maybe somewhat because the train was Chilean owned, but nevertheless all the staff and operating peoples were Bolivian. It wasn´t even the most expensive option i took. But the Wara Wara Del Sur Express train from Oruro to Villazon near the Bolivian/Argentine border is certainly another Marc reccomendation. The seats were spacious. The tiolets clean and regularly sprayed with what seemed like perfume. It wasn´t cold but they provided lovely thick blankets. We
Me and La Paz
Just like a lego model had a huge widescreen TV showing films (with English subtitles - how thoughtful). And in the morning we were trated to a relatively full and certainly tasty breakfast in the sauve dining car. I felt very Micheal Palin. The only downside to the train was that it was slow. Very slow. 15 hrs to cover not that much distance slow. Also it was 3 hours late in the end. Still, the scenery was super and the films, intermitted with Bolivian music were ever coming. The pick was seeing Forest Gump dubed in Spannish. I imagine the guy talking for Tom Hanks was trying to sound ´stupid is as stupid does´but all Sapnnish sounds the same to me so it was like seeing it with a regular chap being Forrest Gump.
Arrival in Argentina was no less hectic than anything else in the past couple of days, and on the train i met a very freindly and nice Peruvian who managed to shepherd me through the scrum of travel agency reps at the border, and get almost instantaneously onto a bus for Salta. Good for speed, but bad for my brain trying to understand the (now much more rapid and
Me and my breakfast buddy
Picture is to show the breakfast and general Micheal Palin Esq elegance of trains in Bolivia with a horrible accent) Spannish of Argentina.
And so here i am. My current companion is a French guy i met on the Salta bus who speaks no English, and as my French dissapeared when i began Sapannish, we are speaking a lot of Español. Or at least trying. Its good for my learning and bad for my head. It spins so at the moment.
Finally first impressions of Argentina are that i like it. It very European here in Salta, but not too much, Theres still the South American craziness i´ve come to love. The collection of what pass for cars in this city are worth coming for alone. No idea where i´m off to next. 10 days left before Costa Rica and so many things i want to do. Tonight though will be a relax and beer evening i think. And no travelling. That´ll all start again tommorow.
marc
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Cindy
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Album Cover?
Picture #2 looks like a possible album cover. "Canciones con Marc"?