Enjoying the organic food and handmade chocolate in El Bolsón

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After our exhausting experience crossing the border into Argentina, we were content to hang out in the very relaxed town of El Bolson for a few days. It's a bit like Nimbin but the drugs aren't quite so visible, although I'm sure there were a few people walking around in a bubble..

We arrived at about midday and headed to the tourist information centre for some guidance on accommodation... there were a dizzying array of hostels and cabañas in such a touristy town and too many for us to walk around searching for somewhere good. We decided on a particular strip a few blocks north of town and headed there to check out some cabañas which looked OK. They turned out to be smelly and musty, and as we crossed the road back to town we were invited by the owner of another hostel to take a look. It turned out to be one of the best places we've stayed in so far, with really friendly owners, good company in the other travellers staying there and excellent food.

We relaxed on our first day in El Bolsón and did a short walk up to the lookout near our hostel. The mountain range just east of the lookout forms the border with Chile, which reminded us a little too much of our recent unsavoury border crossing experiences! El Bolsón is situated between two north-south mountain ranges and receives a sunny, warm micro-climate which is ideal for growing produce. No wonder it is the foodies' paradise in Argentina. I was very content with the change in weather after our few cold weeks in Chile!

I was starting to feel a bit sick with a cold on our second evening in El Bolsón so I had a quiet few minutes to myself in the room while Pete was in the shower. I was awoken by loud knocking on the door, and the owner was yelling out, 'Chica, chica, would you like to come to the trout farm to catch some dinner?' Trout is more Pete's thing, but I couldn't refuse, and after we spent half an hour feeding (then catching) trout, we were served up a fresh five-star trout dinner back at the hostel. We later found out that Claudio, our host, used to be a chef at the Hilton and Intercontinental Hotels, so we were well and truly blessed by picking that hostel to stay at! Claudio wouldn't take any payment for our dinner, except for the cost of the ingredients (outrageously cheap in Argentina).

The next day, although feeling even worse with my cold, we were persuaded by Claudio to come up the eastern mountain range near town with him and some others staying at the hostel to check out the view and the famous wooden carvings. Despite knowing better, I agreed and struggled up the hill coughing and spluttering at every turn. The wooden carvings were fabulous, and I was really glad I had made the effort when I saw them. Apparently after a large and destructive bushfire, artists started carving the leftover wood, and the practice continues despite the forest's recovery. Pete and I waited at the refugio while the others in our group soldiered on to the top of the track. They brought us back a snowball to prove just how far they went!

The next day Claudio was keen on cooking an Argentinian Parrilla, and after our sensational meal from a few days ago, we couldn't say no. This time it was Pete's turn to accompany Claudio on his hunting and gathering mission to the butcher and the supermarket, and again Claudio wouldn't accept payment except to cover the cost of the food and wine. We had another wonderful meal and were ever so regretful to be leaving the next day for Barriloche.

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Photos

I was happy here..
El Bolson was much warmer that the surrounding towns. Here's me enjoying the serenity without a windstopper.

Five-star cuisine
The freshest, tastiest fish I have ever eaten. Only hours ago this fish was still wriggling.

Hellooooo
We would have walked past this tree stump without a second glance, except for our host Claudio.

Sick and sicko
The smiles are deceptive. Although I had a great day, I was ready for bed and a herbal tea when this pic was taken.