The Lakes District in Argentina


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Published: January 31st 2011
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We thought it would be a formality leaving Chile, but we didn't expect 2 hours delay at the borders,dirt roads up alpine passes and the heat and dust that was. The scenery and especially Lanin Volcano at 3787m made up for the discomforts and I suppose its given us a taste of border crossing!
Over the Andes up to about 1300m, not high, but isolated apart from the borders buildings. We probably could see Lanin for 50km, it stands out as a landmark and is on the border between Chile and Argentina. So they both own it and its part of two national parks, Villarrica NP in Chile and Lanin NP in Argentina. I think Argentina own about two thirds of the volcano so they maybe have the right to call their NP after it.
We were heading firstly for Junin de los Andes then for San Martin de los Andes total trip time that day was 8.5 hrs normally 5hrs. It was striking to see the contrasts to the east and west of the Andes. Very dry on the Argentina side but both had fabulous Monkey Puzzle(Pehuen in Ar and Araucania in Ch) trees.
As we moved closer to our destination the landscape changed from arid mountain plains to pine forests and golf courses, ski resort and holiday homes for sure. It was nice to arrive in a ski town off season and see how other countries do it. Much the same activities of course but with a little more panache. As we only had two nights we stayed in an Arg. Hostel called the Rukalhue In which we all ate together at 9.30pm both nights. So lunch was late at 3ish etc., its an Argentinian thing.
Our main walk was up to the Mirador Bandurrias, of course we got lost! We came across a couple of bulls being led by a local Mapache man from the village up on the hill. The photo you see cost me after I took it but it was a pleasure to help him. His job,more the bulls, was to drag timber for firewood up to the community near the summit. Great views of Lago Lacar and some goats made for a rewarding morning.
After a couple of days in San Martin we bussed it south to Bariloche which is the main town of the Agentinian Lake District. Yet again the journey was spectacular but bumpy,30km off road as they are still upgrading roads in this area. We made a brief stop in Angostura which could be where the drink comes from?
Its on the north end of Lago Nahuel Huapi which is huge, an hour and half southish is Barilochie.
Its not the town thats special but the location,on the water front and on a hill, a bit like San Francisco( see photo of steep windy road). Nearby is the biggest ski station in the country where we went walking trying to find a waterfall! but we got lost again. It was still an amazing place high up above the Lago Gutierrez in air and strong winds. We stayed in a great friendly Hostel called Tango Soho! There was a BBQ evening with music known as an "Asada", the steak was amazing. On our last day before heading off on our 20 hr bus journey we had lunch at a local resto. where you have to arrive at 12.30 to get a seat! It was worth it and great value with good views of the lake. We had "Puchero" a local casserole dish made with Knuckle,Corn,Bacon,Butterbeans,Carrot,cabbage and Sweet Potato washed down with a cheeky half bottle of Malbec.





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