Advertisement
Published: March 24th 2008
Edit Blog Post
In Parque Nacional Lanin
We rested under a grove of monkey puzzle trees Like eager school kids bursting out of the school yard to begin a long vacation, we ended our four weeks of Spanish classes and left Bariloche on March 14. Heading north along a bumpy, unpaved road through "la ruta de los lagos" (route of the seven lakes) we took in the jaw-dropping views and began to dream about the adventures that awaited us. The ride ended at the tranquil village of San Martin de los Andes, where we parted ways for 3 1/2 days so that Bill could head off on a long-planned fly fishing excursion and Carol could explore the lake and mountain area around San Martin.
Some notes from Carol: As in Bariloche, I found mostly Spanish-speaking tourists in San Martin, but I did hook up with a 30-something couple from Wisconsin who were on a 9-month trip around the world. We took a wonderful excursion to see the Lanin volcano in Lanin National Park and together we struggled to piece together what we could from the rapid fire Spanish of our guide. It went something like this: "As we board this boat, please heed this urgent warning blah blah blah blah blah blah blah so to protect yourselves, you must follow the previous instruction."
We just rolled our eyes and shrugged. The trip was a delight. I'll spare you my overblown adjectives and hope that you have time to take a look at the photos.
I want to record one more quirky adventure from San Martin de los Andes. Rick Steves always advises prospective travelers to enjoy as many cultural interactions as possible by completing little chiores in a foreign country. For example, getting a haircut can be a rich inter-cultural experience. Well, I would like to add one to Steves' list: preparing a package to mail back to the U.S. One morning, I embarked upon that errand and found it to have about 14 steps. I began by pleading at several grocery stores for the right kind of strong clean carton, an exercise that proved a test for my primitive Spanish. Then I walked to the post office for the weight to be established, and across town to the customs office, where I was first told to go to a certain papeleria (7 more blocks) to buy brown wrapping paper of the proper size and quality. Upon returning to the customs office, I was asked, The Lanin Volcano
The snow-capped Lanin Volcano (3776 M) which dominates the region, is reflected in Lago Huechulafguen "But where is your tape?" And so I was sent about 6 blocks in another direction to a different store to buy a particular kind of tape. Then, back at the customs office, where I was beginning to feel like regular customer, I completed several government forms, then struggled to wrap my box, balanced aginst my knee, while I stood in the cue. I finally received help from two giggling Argentine women who had been standing in line behind me. Together, my rescuers wrapped the box then mummified it with tape. (Please see the photo.) Finally, I was sent to the bank to get exactly the right change, and back to the post office. When I asked the shipping cost, the postal agent said, "That depends, of course, whether you want to send it by boat or by plane." (At least that what I thought he said.) But when I selected the boat (since there was no hurry), he said, "What do you mean? There is no ocean here in the middle if the country. We can't ship your package by boat from here." I may see that box again, but I'm not counting on it.
Some notes from Interior of Iglesia Evangelica
The church in San Junin de los Andes Bill:
For months, I had been reading about the extraordinary trout fishing on Patagonian rivers, but I wasn't prepared for what I experienced. It was fantastic! From the feisty rainbow trout to the brooding browns, the Collon Cura River has it all. The river is about the size of the Yakima in eastern Washington in the springtime and drains a large piece of the Andes wilderness of northern Patagonia. Very few people live in this area.
Pablo Zalinsky, a former software engineer escaping the pace and rigor of Buenos Aires, was my guide and companion for these 3 1/2 days of fishing. We stayed at a hunting and fishing lodge owned by Ted Turner, and the only other guests were hunting for the magnificent red deer in the area. Therefore, we were on the river alone and saw only one boat (of campers) for those days. Ted Turner has replicated the conservation practices of his Montana holdings by stopping the raising of cattle on his land and returning it to its previous natural state. He encourages practices that spur populations of wild boar, puma, red deer, and guanaco--a peculiar animal that spits like a camel but looks a bit Sign at Church Entrance
"Please turn off your cellphone. God doesn't need it to communicate with you." like a llama. The many birds of prey and water birds around the river were fishing for the same fish we were.
Fishing started slowly as I worked out the kinks in my balky right shoulder, but with some expert coaching from Pablo, I was able to get things (both the shoulder and the timing) to work as never before. I was catching fish averaging 18 inches at a regular clip. In fact, I soon quit counting and instead just enjoyed the challenge. And do these fish fight! The biggest fish I caught , around 4 lbs and 23 inches, took a run down the river into the backing on the reel (150 yards), leaped about seven times, and took about 15 minutes to bring in. The combination of fast action, beautiful country, abundant wildlife, good companionship, and the quiet solitude of this place made those 3 1/2 days...well, "perfectos."
Advertisement
Tot: 0.08s; Tpl: 0.013s; cc: 11; qc: 25; dbt: 0.0356s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1mb
Jo
non-member comment
the best is yet to come
I love your pictures and reports. As you head south in Patagonia, I'm confident the best is yet to come. Have a great time. Jo