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Published: September 18th 2006
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Ornate archway to the church
The red color of the stone was really striking against the clear blue sky dotted with white clouds. Leaving behind the pleasant little city of Puerto de Iguazú, I caught a bus out to the small town of San Ignacio. I been told that Argentine buses were cheaper and a lot nicer than Brazilian buses, but for the majority of the 5-hour bus ride, there were so many people on the bus that the aisle was full almost completely with people standing, including me for an hour or so (although, I did get to see Shanghai Knights and Annapolis).
There's really one reason to come to San Ignacio: the ruins of the Jesuit mission San Ignacio Miní. Jesuits were all over the place in this triple border region (Argentina, Paraguay, Brazil) in the 17th and 18th centuries, but these ruins (not rediscovered until 1897) are the best preserved of all of the 30 missions in the area. The mission was originally founded in Paraná, Brazil in 1611, but due to attacks from Brazilian slavers, it was moved to its present location in 1696 where it remained until the Spanish crown gave the expulsion order to all Jesuits in 1768. At one time the mission held around 3,500 or so Guaraní indians.
Today, the ruins have been restored
Gateway to the church
Very Indiana Jones-like and offer a chance to see one of these unique settlements. I was basically all alone, walking in the midst of these fallen, red stones. It was really a very peaceful experience, somewhere where you can feel that there was once an immense past but not that it rests silently. And the green grass and red stone set against the blue sky was really breathtaking.
Another amusing thing though, was the visitors center. You walk in and there are a few displays of indian artifacts and information about the ruins, all quite normal. And then you enter this room that's kind of like the jungle version of It's a Small World on acid. There are neon jaguars and frogs all around and snakes made from paper maché hanging from the ceiling. They all have these crazy smiles that are comical but kind of scary at the same time. All of this of course is viewable under the black lights that they installed. Then, you come out of the darkness into a courtyard to see half a pirate ship. It's just sitting there. There's no explanation for any of this at all. Then, you just go on and see the
INXS, I mean IHS
A decorative stone with the symbol of the Jesuits engraved on it. beautiful, majestic ruins. It's really just bizarre.
The town's other minor attraction is a house built and inhabited by the famous early 20th-century Argentine writer Horacio Quiroga, and walking around the property and inside the house, it really felt the perfect set for a movie about a writer's life (and in fact, it was). If I ever became some brilliant writer someday, I would probably build my house pretty much to copy his because it fit the stereotypes wonderfully.
As for Argentina itself, it's quite wonderful. I've never been around more fashionable people in my life. It's odd coming from Brazil where they have a horrible sense of fashion (bright colors mixed, sleeveless shirts, etc.) to here where everyone has the coolest shoes, great jeans, stylish tops. I feel like some slob in my t-shirts and sandals that I've been living in for two months. Here in the northeast there's also definitely a German influence that you can feel. Some of the VWs and other Germans are positively Bavarian, and the some people are quite obviously descendents of Germany immigrants.
Also, the food here is amazing. Since the economy crashed several years ago, Argentina is one of
A room with a view
Looking out onto the Plaza de las Armas and the church the most affordable places to travel in South America, despite being at times almost European. I had this brilliant pasta dinner the other night, glass of cabarnet, bread, the works for $8US. Stateside it would have been around $30. It's really sick. Everything is about a third of the price here. I had a very decent little hotel room in Puerto de Iguazú for $8 also, breakfast included, everything.
Another strange phenomenon here is mate. It's both a tea and a ritual. Argentines drink this yerba mate religiously, and it's not just like brew a pot. You must have your mate gourd, a bombilla (straw to strain out the tea), a thermos to carry the hot water, and of course the yerba mate. You stuff the yerba mate into the gourd and then fill it with water. Friends and family share this several times a day sometimes, and its really odd to see everyone walking down the street with their entire mate set-up. Literally, they just constant carry around a thermos, gourd, and bombilla. You walk past stores and see the clerks sitting there sipping it. People in the park are sipping it. On the bus you see people
La carcel
Really, one of the prettiest prisions I've seen. sipping it. It's really wild! I just bought my whole kit yesterday, and once I cure my gourd I'll be set to go! I've very excited about becoming Argentine . . . except I need lots of new, stylish clothes.
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nicole hoffman
non-member comment
mate con azucar para mi! : ) nicole