I Mean Really, Who Does Dhat?

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Ok, Argentina. You really do exist. And you really are fantastic.

Matthew and I split like bananas a few-something days ago. And also, like bananas, it was a very sweet googbye. I´ve spent time on another bus (30 hours), in Cordoba, and now in Cosquin!

The bus ride should have been 20 hours. However, due to a farmer´s strike, as we were exiting Nequen a large group of men threw old tires in front of the bus and ¨cut the road¨ for several hours. They were nice, though, and had plenty of apples to share with everyone. All the passengers hung out just outside of the bus, because most everyone smokes. I met a wonderful young lady named Sole who is a musician and studies Literature in Cordoba, which is known for its colleges.

Along the way the bus also stopped at a lavadero (laundry center) for about an hour. Here, the bus driver just parked in the shade of some trees and sprayed the bus down. We also changed busses three times. All that being said, I really do love Argentina´s bus system. Its great. And I rode ´cama´, which is really the way to go- like first class on an airplane.

Cordoba is a beautiful, colonial city. Its the second largest in South America, and has a population of 1.5 million. While there, I wandered the streets for hours, going in and out of countless, awe-inspiring cathedrals from the 1600s. The hostel I stayed at served traditional food at a very long table. It had a very nice and homey feel. The next day I went to the art museums, for about 1 dollar US, with some folks from Brazil, who are also artists.

I travelled to Cosquin by bus and met several ´folks´ going to the national Festival Folklorico. This festival is huge, and is held in a very small town of 21,000 people. The Plaza de San Merino is an outdoor venue and holds 11,000 people. Its located right in the center of town. This town is so much fun. There is live music EVERYWHERE! at all hours of the day! I´ve returned to my hotel room by about 6am each night, where I have my choice of four beds to sleep in, because that is all that I could find.

The festival began in the 60s, when Cosquin was a place for sick people (I dont know what they were sick with.) I suppose everyone was healed by the power of music because Cosquin is no longer the same place. It is a place of great joy... at least for 9 days out of the year.

I met someone from España named Daniel who is here for the festival, too. We met a man named Eduardo, who is involved with the press and knows everyone- all the locals and all the musicians. (A very kind, interesting and funny human being.) He took us to a bar that only plays a certain type of traditional music from the area of Salto. It was great to hear such a variety of music. Daniel and Eduardo were able to explain the unique rhythems and vocal techniques they were using.

Last night it poured rain for hours. I headed into town, sopping wet, crossing newly formed rivers, and dumping out my backpack every couple of blocks. I´m amazed that the concert still went on. Everyone was so enthusiastic in their 1 dollar ponchos! The music was fantastic- about ten bands in 4 hours. There were a variety of styles- ranging from solo gauchos playing on guitars to groups of young men with all types of instruments.
What impresses me the most are the voices- both solo and group. A lot of the music sounds like an opera or a choir, with intense drumming and precise, acoustic guitar picking. VERY DELICIOUS!

Everyone claps, with their hands poised above their heads as if they are dancing their traditional dances in their seats. Its beautiful.

Today Started with medialunas at a cafe and then a walk along the local river. There were mothers and daughters holding hands, families washing clothes, and a crying woman. So much is going on.
It was nice to be somewhere cool and shaded, since it is 1,000 degrees here. Or more. Thank God there are also 1,000 ice cream shops here 😊

When I came back to the center, where all the local artesanias sell their work, everyone was gathered, dancing, in the streets below a parrilla (steak house/grill). I could hear the accordian, violin, guitars, and operatic vocals. (this day has far exceded my expectations...) I squeezed my way into the middle of the crowd to find one of the big name folk artists performing on the tiny, second story balcony of the parrilla for everyone in the streets. It seemed very ¨Fringe.¨ Everyone was so happy! Children were on their parent´s shoulders, clapping along to the traditional rhythms. Folks shared mate, and, as usual, vendors walked by selling everything you can imagine, from giant lighters to cotton candy to... other things that have lights on them... you name it!

Tonight I leave on an overnight bus to Buenos Aires, to avoid paying for a hostel.

Thats all! Ok, North America, see you this weekend!

love,
JEss

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Comments

[Kathy]

Hello traveller!
Hi Jess - Loved the entry and your viewpoints and commentary! Sounds like you are in the moment! Be safe! Love you bunches! Kathy