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Published: February 12th 2006
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avenida 9 de julio
the largest avenue in the world..20 lanes of speedy little cars. represents the date of independance from the spanish. Known to some as the "paris of south america", buenos aires (or the city of good air) has yet to disappoint....
i have been here for 3 weeks, and all is can say is...i love it here!
home to the infamous "evita" peron, the iconic maradona, carlos gardel, and as many would argue, the cultural mecca of the continent - buenos aires has a ton to offer. the city was originally colonized by the spanish back in the 1500's, and still carries its initial European influences. it's situated next to the Rio de la Plata, the main water artery, separating it from Uruguay and originally providing trade access and the opportunity to eventually claim Independence from spain in 1816. composed of many distinct barrios, culture abounds..from a thriving nightlife, developed art & literary scene, gorgeous architectural buildings, and large, tree lined boulevards....the "portenos" (BA residents) are a sophisticated and savvy crew.
Despite a fairly tumultuous history of military rule and economic woes, things have begun to stabilize after the currency devaluation in December of 2001 and you can see the city redefining itself by the new construction, trendy stores and restaurants, and an overall feeling of revival.
casa rosada
the presidential palace (not residence), whose balconies were used as soapboxes for many a dictator and most well know, the peron's (and madonna. also interesting, the rosy hue is from the 1800's when it was traditional to add ox blood to whitewash to provide colour and thicken the mix. eew! i spent the first week or so at a hostel near the microcenter, or comerical hub. since then, rick (friend from san francicso, also traveling this year) and i found a cute little apartment to rent in a fabulous area of town called palermo. we are situated very close to just about everything you'd need (pharmacies, grocery, laundry, shopping..) and it has been fun to have a "homebase" and have the chance to get to know the city.
pics of the apartment:
http://www.4rentargentina.com/english/moreinfo.php?id=89
i continued the pilgrimage to master the spanish language, and diligently attended classes for the first two weeks. i have many things to still learn (memorize!), but its been a good base to enable moderate communication. the quest continues, but for now...just with my own books and flashcards.
days have been spent exploring the city and taking advantage of salsa, tango...and of course the ever present and pulsating nightlife. argentinians LOVE their meat, "asados" (barbeque's) are a way of life, and time frames are at a much later pace, with dinner never starting before 9 pm (not uncommon to dine at 11:30 or midnight!) and then music and dancing until the sun rises. a perfect
the salsa trio
rick, agustin and i kicking our heels around the dancefloor....very HOT in there! synergy with my own internal clock!
so far, i have blundered through my first salsa lesson (with rick and agustin being stellar wingman!...please excuse the pictures, it was HOT in there!)..and am about to embark on tango lessons tonight. i have no expectations of mastering these dance moves...but it's been a fun (and humbling) experience to give it a shot....milongas (dance clubs) are full of talented and graceful couples swinging away until the wee hours....
i would highly recommend putting this city on your list of "must see's" and would be glad to put together a collective list of specifics if anyone is interested. general highlights
within the top 10:
1. dulce de leche (a cousin to our "jam"..that is basically a carmel like substance, slathered over bread (or just spooned in, when no one is watching!)....also the critical middle component of the alfajore (think mega chocolate and carmel oreo)
2. quilmes..the national brew. although argentina has a burgeoning wine industry centered in mendoza, quilmes pulls its weight as a smooth and refreshing option for those craving a "cerveza". also celebrating it's 100th year anniversary this year with special collector's bottles.
3. palermo soho/palermo hollywood:
tree lined street
close to our apartment two new barrios that have been putting in a valiant effort to spurn the recent economical crisis and showcase the style, flair, culture, and nightlife that argentina is renowned for...(let's just say that i have to keep my credit cards at home before venturing out!)
4. the obligatory jaunt through recoleta...an exclusive neighborhood, home to the fortunate class, with the impressive and extensive recoleta cemetery where the rich and famous house their relatives...also the final home to eva peron (although she is sharing space with many of her opponents and critics)
5. tango...the national dance. whether you experience this thru a formal "tango show" in any of the numerous establishments that showcase this amazing display of artistic expression (san telmo claims the birthplace) or actually take part in lessons yourself...you will be energized and inspired by the dance that originated from the "lower class", but is now exported with pride.
i have also finally figured out how to upload pictures (thanks rick!)....i have not been then best at capturing the scenery and escapades, but will make a better effort moving forward...
i think of all of you often and wish that you were here with me...
chau besos (goodbye with kisses... a favorite saying. love it 😊
amy
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Betsy
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HI AMY!!!
This is my first visit to your travel blog site -- Heather thinks your updates might have gone straight to my junk mail... Anyway, its so wonderful to see a pic of you and hear about your travels! Please keep the blogs/notes coming! I hope all is well (tho it appears to be that way!)! Love, Bets