Buenos Aires

---

---

Arrived back in BA looking forward to the hotter weather and got it with the temp over 30 degrees everyday. We're staying in San Telmo which is the oldest area of BA and tango central. It is a slightly run down area with lots of cool old buildings and plenty of atmosphere and loads of little bars and cafes. Spent our first couple of days back after the wilds of Patagonia, in the shops and looking around San Telmo.

We did go see the Madres De Plaza Mayo which are a group of mothers who have been marching around Plaza Mayo every Thursday at 3:30 for an hour since the 'Dirty War' (in the 70's a military dictatorship took over the country and abducted any leftish person who opposed them) in protest over how their sons or daughters were taken from them and were never seen again . 'Offically' 9000 went missing, but they say it is more like roughly 30,000 people went "missing" (eg executed, thrown out of a plane into the river/jungle with their legs weighed down with concrete etc.).
The march was obviously to protest these actions/demand to know what happened and now they still continue with it to remind people of the past so that it may hopefully never happen again. Listening to a few guides who were showing people around we learned that it has really made a difference. At first it was not talked about (hence why they started) but now it is being taught/talked about in schools ans acknowledged, a real win for them. They are all getting on a bit now but show up with a picture of their missing child and alot of people come out to support and march with them.
The square is right out the front of their 'parliment house' so it has always been a popular spot for demonstrations. Other groups join the mothers showing their support and to also showcase their protest (on the day we went there was a protest for more aid for welfare, with the economy how it is there is more people who need help but no extra money is being given by the government) It was also the day the mother launched their radio station. FYI - the square is, for those who have seen Evita, the one where she is on the balcony waving and the nation is cheering at her.

On Friday night we went to see a tango show with Todd and Maggie, who we meet in Patagonia. The show was quite good and had 3 couples all performing tango which was great as all the couples had different styles and attitutes to show. We also saw a few other traditional dances and had a band. Before had we actually had lessons ourselves which was really fun. It is a cool dance and not the easiest as you really must read your partner. Maggie & Todd really got into it as they decided that they want to do a tango for their wedding waltz in a couple of months.

Saturday night we had tickets to Pearl Jam at Boca Juniors ground. Boca isn't far away so we had a big day out sightseeing and got home to quickly change before heading to the concert. We managed to get there with plenty of time to spare before Pearl Jam were due to play but there was just one problem....no concert. After askng the security guard we discovered the concert had been moved to another stadium across town. After jumping in the nearest cab we flew across town to the new venue and got through security to walk into the stadium just as Pearl Jam kicked off! Great concert were they played all their classics with the crowd providing a fantastic atmosphere (and I found Eddie's spanish was as non-existant as mine). We got back to the hostel after midnight to find a few people getting ready to go to a club and thought that wasn´t too bad an idea. However they were heading way across town so we stayed local and went to a club in San Telmo (suggested by Matt). FANTASTIC, everybody was really friendly and all amazing dancers so we stayed till late (or is that early) and walked home in the morning light.


Sunday was Matt´s big day so we ate lunch and headed out to River Plates stadium for the football. We arrived early and after being bombarded with literature for the upcoming club election found our seats. Now Boca is BA´s big team , but were playing away so we had to go to River Plate. This wasn´t so bad as they are also a big team and are 5th on the ladder. The team they were playing - Gimnasia LP are first so it was a big game.
It was steaming hot (clear blue sky, over 30C) in the exposed seats and we sat through 45 minutes of reserves football plus a bit more, before the main event. Well it was worth the wait as the game was fantastic (Gimnasia LP 3 - River 1) but the fans were something else. At both ends of the field fans chanted songs and banged drums from start to finish and were jumping around and waving flags/ shirts all game. When the away team came out the stadium erupted into a roar and coloured flares went off and white streamers flew into the air. Neither of us have ever seen anything like it (maybe we should start something with the Socceroos???) The noise from either end was as loud as anything at the concert and simply unforgetable!! The stadium - very secure and made of concrete was vibrating. Due to the heat the firemen were there and got the water cannons out to cool down the fans which was a very welcome relief!

We came back down to earth on Monday and strolled around Palermo, a very nice afluent area with lots of parks and cafes. Tuesday was Boca. We finally got to enter La Bombonera and had a look around the museum and walk around the grandstand. After a look around Bocas stadium we headed to the the colourful streets around the port in Boca. It was pretty touristy but pretty with lots of street performers tangoing, along with the colourful buildings and detailed signs.

I think our major love of Argentina, and don´t get me wrong we love the place, is the food!! What they lack in variety they make up for in quality. We have been living on big juicey steaks that melt in your mouth, great schnitzels, chorizo sausage, great cakes, yummy red wine....all costing a fraction of the price you would pay anywhere else. Traveling can be tough at times!

---

Photos

River Fans
Welcome relief from the heat

Madres De Plaza Mayo.
Lost children

Gimnasia LP fans
Welcoming side with syncronised streamer throwing