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Published: October 19th 2007
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My postings are clearly becoming much fewer and far between. Now that I’m working full-time, the weeks seem to fly by at an alarming rate. I also blame the fact that I use a computer all day at work, so as to prevent any further damage to my eyes, I try to avoid it once I get home.
I think when you’ve been in a new city for around two months you reach an interesting dichotomy. Your life begins to feel somewhat “normal” again as you develop a routine of work, gym, grocery shopping, etc. However, I continue to experience moments that remind me I am somewhere very different and very far away. I covet this feeling.
I ventured over to La Boca several weeks ago- it is on the opposite side of the city from where I live. Many of the covers of Buenos Aires travel books are of this place, which I find ironic because it is so uncharacteristic of the rest of the city. All of the buildings are brightly painted and there are loads of artists out selling their work and street performers. I spent a long time watching a mother and her daughter (probably
about 7 years old) dance together. They were having so much fun, and I really wasn’t sure which one enjoyed the attention of the crowd more. I gladly threw some pesos in their hat so that I could take their picture (I did then fear being reprimanded by child labor law advocates).
Sarah-Frances and I were in dire need of clean air, green grass, and open space, so we took a Sunday trip to San Antonio del Areco. It’s about two hours outside the city- a small town with lots of estancias (little farms). We arrived around 11a.m. to have bread, salami, and empanadas for breakfast. We then got to ride (the horses here are a good bit smaller). There was a group of young boys from South Africa visiting, and I think for many of them it was their first time riding- incredibly fun to watch! We had a huge asado (barbecue) for lunch- by far the most meat I’ve ever consumed in one sitting. After the great chorizo (sausage), our waiter brought us something that resembled sausage, but was a lot darker. We asked what it was, and he responded “sangre del cerdo” (literally translates to blood
of pig). And yes, I tried it! One bite was enough for me (I later found out that the outside skin holding the blood in was the stomach lining). My sincere apologies to anyone who either just ate or was planning on it. The gauchos put on a talent show afterward. The horses would run as fast as possible with the gaucho standing up, and then he would stick a small stick through a hanging string to grab a ring. I explained that horribly; hopefully the pictures will help clarify.
Two weekends ago I went to the River v. Boca Juniors soccer game here in the city- a huge inner-city rivalry. After going to the Sevilla v. Betis game in Spain, I was expecting total chaos. To my surprise, the game was very “controlled”. My bag was searched, no one could bring in alcohol, and no alcohol was sold. The fans are crazy- they sing, scream and curse a lot. You can’t help but respect their passion. The game was at River, and the Boca fans sat in a small section of the stadium. I asked the guy beside me why an entire section to the left of the
Boca fans was empty- he replied, “for security.” Cops lined the Boca fans, and once the game was over, no one could leave until 30 minutes after the Boca fans had left (so yes a “head start” was needed). River scored 2 goals in the first half to win, 2-0. After the game, Zach, Preston, SF and I decided to make it a true “Sunday Funday” by going to Alamo to drink the biggest pitchers I’ve ever seen in my life.
SF and I went to San Telmo this past Sunday for its renowned flea market. A trip to San Telmo always involves unexpected surprises:
- a man holding a sign reading “Abrazos Gratis” (Free Hugs)
- a woman in her 70s (I think drunk) shuffling around the circle that was meant for couples dancing tango (she maintained an impressive crowd)
- a former tango “star” (also in her 70s and drunk) standing on the side of the street asking for money, although she never danced. Fishnets not the best idea.
- A brother and sister (at most 5 and 7) were supposed to be playing the accordion to earn money. Instead they got in an all-out brawl, requiring
Boca v. River Game
The line getting into the game. two older men to intervene to play Dad.
The presidential election is this week. I think it would be impossible for me to explain how different political campaigning here is than in the United States. There are a few posters around the streets and in the subway, but that is about it. We’ve talked to several different people about it, and everyone knows the current president’s wife will win. One cab driver told us he would vote because he has to, but that he knows it means nothing. If Argentines don't go and vote, they can't renew their passport. They don't have to actually vote for a candidate, but they must go sign in and at least submit a blank ticket. I know I will be in for quite the shock when I return.
Buenos Aires is a beautiful city with an amazing amount of trendy bars, restaurants and boutiques. However, I am still surprised that on those same streets, I see people going through the trash bags at night. One Tuesday night around midnight I saw several young kids going through the trash. I felt both guilty and appreciative of growing up in America.
Thank you
Boca v. river game
Notice the empty section to the left- reserved for "security". again for all the emails and calls! I’ll be returning for Christmas- I get into Raleigh December 19th and will be there until January 3rd. I’m then heading back to BA and will come home for good May 1st. Take care….beso, chau chau!
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