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Published: September 12th 2007
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Tango!
in San Telmo on a sunday. Well, what can I say. I have been dreaming of it since I was 4 years old, talking about it with Barry since we started going out together over 5 years ago and planning it seriously for the last year or so. That´s right, it is my year in South and Central America and it started on 5th September!
We left Heathrow and after 2 flights, with a short stop at Sao Paulo, we made it to Buenos Aires. We had been on the same plane for over 15 hours and all in all, this was probably not the best state to face a city that puts London in the shade (in terms of size at least). Still, we changed some money at the airport and caught a bus into the centre. We started walking through town but quickly realised that this place is just too big to lug around heavy bags and so we headed into the subway to catch a metro to our hostel. Big mistake. In the hustle of the midday rush and having to deal with our bags, Barry´s wallet was stolen. We think we know who the pick-pocketer was but unfortunately, it was all realised
Mothers of the ´disappeared´
They march around Plaza de Mayo every thursday afternoon. about 5 seconds too late. Obviously this made us feel pretty terrible and we decided to head straight to the hotel to ask what to do and also to just dump these stupid big rucksacks! When we got to our hostel, the receptionist was really friendly and helped us to get the address of the tourist police and made us believe that not all Argentines are thieves. Sigh! Once we had taken 5 minutes to calm down we headed out to cancel Barry´s credit cards and generally wander.
We took in the Plaza de Mayo (with the mothers of the disappeared doing their weekly march) and admired the architecture on the way. After that it was a fun visit to the Tourist Police who said they couldn´t help because the robbery had taken place on the subway. We would have to go to the subway police instead. Grrr... And so we decided to abandon the police for the day as we couldn´t face travelling out to see them. Instead, we relaxed a bit and after realising hadn´t eaten anything since lunch on the plane (it was now about 5pm), we went to find dinner. And what a great dinner
we found! The place recommended in our guidebook was closed, so we just stumbled into a nearby cafe/restaurant. It had no name over the door and was filled with locals - sure signs that the food is going to be good. We had a couple of huge steak milaneses topped with a tomato and sauce and served with plenty of chips. I like the way of eating in Buenos Aires - often and plenty. Think I could get used to this!
The last few days since then have been spent exploring the city some more. At first I was feeling a bit wary after the wallet being stolen, but we quickly relaxed and accepted that it was just one of those things and could as easily have happened to us in London as in Buenos Aires. This city is absolutely massive and it takes a few days to get your head around the distances. We have been walking to most places though, firstly as we enjoy the wandering and secondly because it saves us a few pence every time we decide to use our legs instead of the metro! We have already explored the central parts of BA, including
Eating in our hostel
Yes, spaghetti bolognese and a big bottle of wine. Mmmm... the numerous parliament buildings and Ave Florida (lots of shops). We also walked out to Recoleta - famous for its massive cemetary with the tomb of Evita. Slightly surreal place for a tourist hot-spot, but not to be helped when Madonna and Andrew Lloyd Webber have worked to make ´Evita´a household name.
Recoleta is also home to some excellent museums and we enjoyed some great art works in the Musee des belle Artes. The best thing was that the museum was not too big, just the right size to soak in the works for an hour (all for free!) before heading back out into the sunshine. Of course by far one of the highlights so far has been the food. As well as the Milaneses mentioned above we have enjoyed some perfect steaks and plenty of hot chocolates. A main meal is costing about GBP £1.50 at the moment. Something I am still trying to get used to. But also something I am not going to be able to afford every day on my budget!
Best area so far though is probably San Telmo. This is where our hostel is and a very happening part of BA. It
Modern art
at the MALBA museum. is a bit rundown - oldest part of the city but not at all intimidating and in fact the nightlife is great. Lovely and inviting bars where you can enjoy a glass of Argentine red, a perfectly cooked steak or just a plate of ham and cheeses. On sunday, we spent all day in the area as the streets really come alive with market stalls and music. The best part is the live tango, taking place at various street corners. These people are incredible - able to dance such a complex (well it looks tough to me) sequence whilst concentrating on looking serious and not thinking about the high humidity and temperatures. Wish I could dance like that!!
So, all in all, things are progressing well. We start at our Spanish school on Monday, which I am very scared about - so far I have mastered ´hola´and that is it.
Oh, and finally good luck to Argentina (Pumas) in the rugby world cup. We watched Argentina beating France in an Irish Pub (Molly Malone´s) and the atmosphere was excellent!! Although of course, Wales to win the whole thing please...
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