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Published: March 9th 2023
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Blog 3 -No Blue Whales
Let's start with the whales. Our primary reason for visiting Chiloe and Raul Marin was to see the biggest animal on the planet (read in your best Attenborough's voice). Sadly we didn't see any but nevertheless we had an amazing time, especially in Raul Marin. On our last day we had to hang around for a ferry that was 6 hours late. I had booked a night at a small hostal and Vanessa rang to say we would be late. The boat was much fuller than on the outward trip but we got some sleep, we eventually arrived at 1am but had to wait to get off as an ambulance was waiting to take a woman who had been taken ill. The ferries run late, the staff are surly and know they are serving a captive audience with no competition. At 1.30am we finally got to bed but we were up and out at 8.45 for breakfast. A family run little cafe was just opening up and a cup of Nescafe, three fried eggs and fresh bread was a 5 star meal.
Our bus to Puerto Montt, which took us onto the Chilean mainland,
was super efficient, lovely staff and we got a taxi to our hotel, the Gran Pacifico. What a contrast! Masses of traffic, beeping horns, the smell of car fumes. At the hotel, we had lovely friendly staff and a huge room with massive bathroom. Breakfast was served on the 10
th floor with stunning views of the bay. I found a place to eat called Chile Picante and we got a taxi to the restaurant. We were the only ones in but it felt special as it was only small and after several experiences of massive plates of food it was a delight. It was a set three course menu , using local ingredients. My starter was strips of hake, taken from the cheeks- so sweet and tasty. Chris had mussel ceviche. My dessert was a jelly with cochayuyo, or bull kelp, a type of edible seaweed. What a find.
We had thought about a trip the next day but were pretty tired so just had a chill day, walked along the newly refurbished waterfront, breathing slightly cleaner air, mooched in the artisan market and shops . We had dinner in a parilla, massive grill plate of steak, pork and
sausage and potato. Anyone that knows me well will know that I like small amounts of meat!
Our taxi arrived at 5.15am to take us to the airport for our flight to Argentina. We were flying with LATAM,via Santiago, they were super efficient, friendly, on time and lots of explanations. Our bags were going right through meaning we didn't have to waste time checking in again. Only downside of any early flight was no cafes open, coffee and Twix it was. We transferred from domestic to international at Santiago and we arrived in Buenos Aires only 10 minutes late at 3.15pm.
We have never experienced an arrival like it. No queue at immigration, really nice staff and our bags ready , all within 15 minutes. In fact so fast our taxi driver hadn't arrived!! He was called Gustavo and we got 20 minutes of tirade about the state of Argentina, not a happy bunny.
Our accommodation was a studio, on 23
rd floor, in Puerto Madero an area of docklands which has been remodelled. We arrived into a heatwave, 32°C and the aircon struggled to cool down a space with two window walls. We were here in Buenos
Aires for Chris to start his Antarctic cruise and we had things to do. Number one was to get the washing sorted, the nearest laundry was only about a 15 minute walk but the heat and humidity made it feel three times that. For 1400ARS it would be ready next day, next problem was money.
Just a bit if background for those of you not knowledgeable about Argentina's economy. Inflation is off the scale ( last year 95%), no one trusts the peso or the banks so people horde US dollars under their mattresses. There are at least two exchange rates , the official (about 210 to the dollar) and blue (360) , you get the first at an ATM the second at a cueva or on the street. Since December you also get near the blue rate with a foreign credit card, but obviously can't use that for taxis, coffee etc. We didn't want to use an ATM unless we really had to.
We went into a bar to get water and we were able to pay in dollars and get change in pesos, result , we were hydrated and solvent. We got back to our apartment in time to have a shower and get “dressed up" for dinner with Alan, Chris's friend from his youth. Apart from the fact we didn't make it to Buenos Aires on our 2012/13 trip to Argentina it's the start point for Chris’s Antarctic cruise. Its an upmarket part of Buenos Aires, a restored dock area and attracts tourists to stay as there are plenty of police around. It is on the edge of San Telemo, a very funky area, but most people probably don't venture there. We had a very good meal with excellent steak, in a restaurant recommended by Alan's hotel. There were so many staff including the guy recommending the wine. I managed to choose a very nice Malbec without his help. I did have a glass of fizz to start as the flat in the UK finally completed. We are back to one house and the motorhome.
The next morning I had booked a PCR at our apartment for Chris, obligatory for his cruise. It was due between 8 and 10 but arrived at 11 ! I went out to pick up the washing, get food for breakfast and found a place to exchange blue dollars, and spotted a vegan place to eat. We wandered out for a coffee and cake and that was enough in the heat. Chri set off to join his cruise group and I chilled and then enjoyed a delicious vegan meal . Fresh lemonade and ginger, 3 dips and a great bowl of salad, what a joy after the meatfest. Chris rang to say he had been briefed, allocated a group, given his instructions and was leaving at 5.45AM in group 5 on the purple bus !!
I know this is controversial and I know many people who love cruises but they do not appeal to me, and before you think “ don't knock it till you've tried it" we did do a 5 day cruise on the Yangtze when we were in China. Most of you who know me well will say I'm a bit of a free spirit but I am also a bit of a control freak. I am also not a good sailor although I love the sea. I also don't really do dressing up so the idea of formal dinners and a dress code are alien ! Chris had to request a special dispensation not to wear a DJ for the gala dinner- carrying it in his bag for one night seemed crazy, plus of course he doesn't have one . I bought him a t shirt with a DJ printed on it.
Onwards and upwards, more of Buenos Aires next time.
Norma
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Vicki
non-member comment
Rather you than me