Alamut Castle

Friendly, self-conscious people
That you found the people friendly and hospitable is just what I'd heard of Iran. Curious that they are as self-conscious about how the world sees them as are we Americans. I so agree that it's incredibly important to separate the government from the people. I'm super-impressed with your bargaining skills given that you often didn't share a language, and also amazed at how often your GPS with Farsi came in handy with clueless taxi drivers. Great that the Alamut Castle gave you vistas while the Golestan Palace gave you former grandeur and “The National Jewels Museum” gave you bling (sounded a bit like the Topkapi Palace treasures). Not many get to Iran--thanks for sharing this!

So embarrassing!
Sometimes, well, many times, it's so annoying being an American. Our entrance visas for others are such a hassle. For South Americans, they charge them $180 just to apply and then often turn potential tourists down and keep the money. I'm so sorry that you may have trouble getting in the US because you visited Iran. Not surprised that they require us to have a guide (what an expensive hassle) since I wouldn't put it past our government (whom I've never trusted) to try to slip in a spy. But so glad you have a fine time.