Surf and Serendipity
December 29th 2013 “If you’re feeling the board’s nose rising, just slide forward,” Miguel yells at me, his voice drowned by the strong winds and large waves. “Think of it as riding a bike – the more you think about what you’re doing, the more likely you’ll fall.” I’m perched atop a faded blue surfboard, trying to maintain balance while a succession of swells tries to knock me over. I try to eras
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