(3) Into the Wild
November 26th 2013 I woke and surfed... And Surfed... Frustration evaporation!
The cool thing about Lima is that it is a huge city that lies right on the Ocean -angled well to get north and south swells. And as every surfer knows when you step into the raging Pacific Ocean: you step into wilderness. And leave that city!
The rest of the town is a concrete jungle overrun with traffic; dirty, gritty & dangerous.
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