Mountain (Nizwa and Environs)
November 20th 2010 I smelled it before I saw it, the sharp scent of smoldering charcoal mixed with something I couldn’t quite put my finger on – though it was familiar. I followed my nose down a narrow backstreet in Nizwa, finding a crowd massed around an enormous, stone-lined pit. The men were heaving large, charred lumps out of the pit and into wheelbarrows waiting at ground level. On closer inspection, the
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