Agra
November 9th 2010 The train back to Varanasi was three hours late, so it was a race to be back at the hotel, who were kindly saving a room for me, by 10pm when they close for the night. I had tried to phone them to let them know I was running late, but the phone company seemed to have chosen this moment to cut off my SIM card.
By the time I reached Varanasi the train was five hours late, but I jumped in an auto-
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