Storm clouds gather over Gonder
December 23rd 2009 I rise ruinously early to catch a bus direct to the Ethiopian border. The journey is long but not unentertaining. Our driver is imperious, dominating the centre of the road and out-honking any would-be challengers. Sitting directly behind him I look over to see just how blisteringly fast he is going, but, like on all good African buses, the speedometer is broken. I sometimes wonder if this is deli
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