Prologue
March 26th 2008 Not mere moments after taking off from Milan for Dakar and already I was greeted, once again, by that name familiar to millions (of women, in Africa, that is): sistah! I love it. Anyway one of the ten passengers on my late night flight came over to my row to ask me to fill in his carte d'embarquement (customs form) for him. I told him I wouldn't know what to put on it--as most of you know
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