Catching the Dreaded Black Tongue in Sa Pa
July 7th 2007 July 7, Saturday: Sa Pa town On Tuesday night I traveled to Hanoi with Chi Sen and four commune leaders from the buffer zone of Phong Nha Ke Bang. The train was booked solid, so we took a sleeper bus. There were three rows of bunks ingeniously designed so that the head of the person in front of you was above a compartment for your feet. However, it was made for the Vietnamese and my legs were
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