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Published: August 27th 2010
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It’s amazing how sailing can be so much more enjoyable when you aren’t seasick! I found that out the hard way. After stocking up on supplies and preparing the boat, my aunt, uncle and I set sail for Vanuatu. I knew there was a good chance I might get seasick on our first open water passage of four days but hoped my seasickness patch would work its magic. It also didn’t help hearing the horror stories the night before our departure talking amidst other cruisers at the island bar. Some of them still got unbearably seasick after sailing for years. Years! And here I was with what, maybe six days of actual sailing experience. That thought alone made my stomach feel queasy. But when the moment of truth came and we motored out beyond the reefs and Fiji slowly became a bump on the horizon, I tried not to dwell on those thoughts. Instead I looked down in amazement as dolphins played alongside the boat and swam near the bow, occasionally turning on their side to gaze up quizzically at the blonde girl enthusiastically waving at them with a huge silly grin on her face. Or when Jeff shouted with glee
‘I caught me a fish!’ and reeled in the line to find a massive colorful mahi-mahi which took us over a week to eat. At other times I’d just sit and watch the waves, occasionally seeing the flying fish speeding across the top of the water, somehow maneuvering around the swells for an incredible distance.
As promised, my seasickness patch worked pretty well for those first three days. I would still get nauseous when I went below decks, but that was easily solved. Wait till the last minute to use the toilet, then scamper down the steps trying to keep myself upright as I ran to the toilet at the front of the boat and as quickly as possible get back into the open air where I could focus on the horizon and take calming breaths to ease my stomach. I’m proud to say that not once did I unwillingly feed the fish with my head over the rail. But all that was with the help of my seasickness patch. After it wore off on the third day, I figured I had acquired my sea legs and would be fine for the next day and a half till we
reached Vanuatu. Well, turns out my sea legs were waiting for me, on land, in Vanuatu. It also didn’t help that the sea became rougher and the winds picked up. Bold Spirit was flying along at 8 knots with 9 feet swells coming at us from multiple directions creating a rocking and swaying motion simultaneously. Captain Jeff was kind enough to explain ‘This is what we call Confused Seas!’ Despite what the sea was doing, my stomach was the least confused when I was flat on my back, preferably asleep. So that’s what I did for the next day and a half. Never before was I so happy to see land as when we sailed into Port Resolution on the island of Tanna, one of the southern islands in Vanuatu. It took me an additional three days for my stomach to get accustomed to the rocking and swaying of the boat at anchor before I had my first full day of feeling normal. And what a relief it was!
We spent the next week in Port Resolution walking the beautiful black sand beach, checking out the two small villages nearby and exploring the small bay in the dingy. Since
we were on a pretty remote part of the island, some of the villagers would paddle out to our boat in their hand carved wooden outrigger canoes and trade fruit and veggies for petrol. Everyone we met was smiling and friendly and seemed to live a relaxed, carefree life. After a few days of enjoying this island lifestyle, we made the 2.5 hour drive, in the back of a truck, to Lenekal on the other side of the island. This is where we went through customs and immigrations and wandered around the biggest town on the islands, which consisted of a bank, a bakery, a few shops selling canned foods and one restaurant. But I liked this island life! The small villages, the relaxed lifestyle, the disregard for business hours, which we experienced firsthand waiting for the immigrations officer to come back from an extended lunch break. But this mentality fits in the Pacific Islands. It’s a laid back place and sailing through it on your own free will makes it even that much more enjoyable. Especially so when you’ve got your seas legs!
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Aunt Mary & Uncle Tom
non-member comment
Hang in there!
Nice Anna! Way to jump right in and take control! We really appreciate your comments and sharing of adventures on the Bold Spirit! Keep us informed! Love you!