Taupo, Auckland and Russell

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We had torrential last night and woke to heavy cloud. A leisurely start for a change and then off to Lake Taupo, a short journey (2 ½ hours). Drove out along the coast through Napier and its suburbs. Passed through some low lying wetlands with lots of water birds, then out through vineyards, olive groves, lavender farms and orchards. Lots of fruit stalls on the road selling fruit and veg. Through the Esk valley which appeared to be covered in vines, not sure that we have tried any wines from here. We start to climb and have a long drive through the Maungaharuru and Ahimanawa ranges. The hills/mountains are covered in native bush, forests and clumps of pampas grass. The forest changes to cultivated pine and we eventually emerge on to a huge flat plain with what looks like a dome shaped mountain in the distance. This is Mount Tauhara, an extinct volcano. This must be one of the few places in New Zealand where we have been that is completely flat. We later learn that these pine forests cover 2.5 million acres of land. Now that we have left the ranges behind the weather has completely changed and we have blue skies and sun above us. The lake appears before us. It is huge, 66 sq km to be precise. It is deep blue in colour. There is lots of traffic on the road, many boats on trailers returning home. This area of New Zealand is a volcanic plateau. We can see Mt Ruapehu, an active volcano at the south end of the lake; the top of its cone is covered in cloud. There are lots of things to see and do here but unfortunately we are only staying the one night. The lake was formed by a volcanic eruption when a cone imploded in 186AD. The Romans and Chinese recorded four days of darkness at this time from the ash fallout. We find the hotel which is 6km out of town and dump the stuff. First stop is Huka Falls. The Waikato River leaves Lake Taupo and passes through a narrow gorge, dropping 9 metres, on its way to the sea south of Auckland. The water rushes through the gap over 200,000 litres per minute, enough to fill 5 Olympic size swimming pools. We see a canoeist tackle the gorge and the falls, must be mad. We continue on into town and catch a replica steam boat ride out to some Maori rock carvings. These were completed about 40 years ago and were a good excuse to get out on the water again and to see the lakeshore from a different perspective. The water is amazingly clear and emerald green in the shallows, lots of trout in the lake. I had originally intended that we would kayak out to these rocks but glad we didn’t. The journey takes 4 hours return in the kayak, no way my arms would stand up to that sort of punishment, it costs twice as much as the boat trip and ‘one’ ends up doing all the work, well that would mean Al. Apparently if you dig a hole in the sand along parts of the lakeshore warm water appears. End up eating fish and chips which was delicious and very cheap before heading back to the hotel. We stop at The Craters of the Moon, a thermal area where steam rises out of the ground but they have closed the park, its only 5.10pm. Another place to return and spend some more time, it also looks like there is some great walking here.

Day 2 - Headed off quite early as we weren’t sure how long this journey was going to take. We were originally going to stop in Rotorua, home of bubbling mud pools etc but we had met some people in Blenheim and they had had their car broken into at one of the attractions and stuff stolen. As we only have a little car and one of the bags sits on the back seat along with a load of other stuff we didn’t want to take the risk so decided to go straight to Auckland. As we left there was a slight smell of sulphur in the air. Stopped at a garage to fill up and I noticed steam rising from a gully. Went to investigate and there was a small stream with steam rising from it and from holes in the bank. All part and parcel of this area, you could have your own sauna in the back yard! Scenery on the way north was pretty similar to what we have already seen on this island, hills always visible somewhere, lots of forestry land, deer farms, rivers etc. As we approached Auckland the traffic increases quite considerably, the most we have seen in one place since we have been here. Directions worked well until we got into the centre and then a slip road we needed to be on was closed for road works. Ended up going round in circles for a bit due to the one way system but eventually arrived at our destination. We have a nice apartment overlooking Viaduct harbour. The harbour was actually purpose built for New Zealand’s defence of the Americas Cup in 2000 (yachting for those of you who don’t know this). A couple of the old boats are actually in the water and another one is out of the water on a rig with all the history detailed. Dumped the stuff and headed straight out on one of these for a couple of hours sailing. Got out into the harbour, put the sails up, both Al and I on the grinders. I wouldn’t normally bother as it is quite hard work but there weren’t many people on the trip and then the wind dropped, great. Tacked a bit and eventually put the gennicker up, a huge sail off the front of the boat with enough material to cover our house or so we were told. Pootled about for a couple of hours and then headed back in. Took the big sail down and Al and I were below decks pulling it into the front locker, seemed to take ages. The boats here are much younger than the one in Sydney and can spin round 360 degrees in their own length, really manoeuvrable. Went for a stroll afterwards to get our bearings and then out for dinner at one of the restaurants in the harbour.

Day 3 - Caught the ferry across to Devonport this morning, situated on a peninsular on the North shore jutting out into Waitemata harbour. Very picturesque place, lots of old wooden restored Victorian houses. Strolled along the foreshore and then climbed up to North Head, one of many extinct volcanic cones situated around Auckland. It is has lots of underground tunnels, chambers and gun emplacements. There are great views from the top across to Rangitoto and Waiheke islands, the Coromandel peninsular and across Devonport to the Auckland city skyline. Back down and across to climb Mt Victoria another volcanic cone. Similar views to those from North Head. Back across the harbour and then some walks around town. Firstly to Victoria market, definitely missable, then to the Skytower. It has clouded over and Al reckons we have seen enough of the city from across the water so we don’t go up. However a brainless person can be seen high above us and skydives down attached to a couple of zip lines. Must have a few screws loose, cost him $200 to throw himself off a tower about 600 feet up and it only lasted 10 seconds max. Then uphill through Albert Park past the university to Auckland Domain, a huge expanse of park with a museum on the top, great views across to Devonport and the islands. It’s getting late so we head back down. Did about 15 miles today which explains why my legs ache. Off out to dinner in the harbour with a friend of a friend. Another great meal.

Day 4 - Caught the ferry out to Waiheke Island this morning, beautiful day, clear blue skies and lots of sunshine. Ferry journey is about 40 minutes, flat calm. Unfortunately we have to suffer some badly behaved brats that Al would quite happily have tossed overboard. We hire a car when and set off round the island, first stop Mudbrick winery for tasting. Great spot, high up on a hillside overlooking a bay. They have a terrace for lunch and a restaurant with great views. Lovely fizz. We carry on round the island, great views at some of the high spots. Lots of holiday homes. Stop at Stoneyridge winery for another tasting, once again great fizz. You can see for miles at the top of the hills. We pass Onetangi bay, a long beach with cream coloured sand. Lots of bays with yachts anchored in them. We decide to go back to Mudbrick for lunch and sit out on the terrace happily eating and drinking for a couple of hours and then catch the ferry back. Had to pay a trip to the Post Office to send yet another parcel home a mere 7kg and then a quick walk around the harbours to drool over the huge yachts that we can’t afford.

Day 5 - Left Auckland today and headed north for Russell, a small town on the northeast coast. Usual sort of countryside, no real mountains up here just hills. They are in the middle of a drought at this end of the island, only one bit of significant rainfall this year so it all looks very dry. Not much farming either, just a cows, the sheep must live down south. Stopped in Pahia, a little town on the coast in the Bay of Islands opposite to where we are staying. Had a mooch around and checked out a few things we might want to do tomorrow, then off to catch the car ferry from Opua, a sort of flat bed roll on roll off thing. Took a whole five minutes. Ten minute drive and we had arrived. The place we are staying in is high on a hill. We have an apartment again and can see across the bay to Pahia and down into Russell. You are surrounded by water here, lots of bays, inlets and islands with all sorts of boats. Russell is a village with a main street, lots of old restored Victorian buildings again and thats about it. A few shops and some restaurants most of which back onto the waterfront. Lots of game fishing is done here and it looks like they catch some whoppers. A couple of 80kg striped marlin were caught today and released back into the ocean, probably to be caught again tomorrow. There are lots of houses on the hills behind the village with great views across the water. There is lots to do here, most of it based around the water, had really wanted to sail but we didn’t have enough time. We went into town for a recce and had a drink, booked dinner in a restaurant and then slowly climbed back up the hill, it is really steep. Al was on balcony lookout duty and spotted a pod of dusky dolphins in the bay, leaping out of the water. Went out for dinner later on, had an excellent meal. Only one problem this place doesn’t have sky sports so Al is missing the Masters (golf to the uninitiated).

Day 6 - Supposed to sunny today but had passing showers first thing. Took the passenger ferry across to Pahia and then walked along the foreshore across a river to Waitangi, where in 1840 the British and the Maoris signed a treaty allowing us to establish a British governor here. We also took it to mean that we could have sovereignty over the land and now there are lots of disputes about it. Needless to say it is far more involved than that but you can look it up if you want to. Headed off up the hill to look at the golf course, a bit dry but with a fabulous outlook across the Bay of Islands. The back nine overlook the sea and the front nine look out over the hills and the Waitangi River. The question was did Al want to play, he dithers around by which time I have started to say the Lord’s prayer out loud in the hope of divine intervention. Golf is really cheap here unless you play on the championship courses. He plays the back nine, not the greatest game of golf he has ever played, lost two balls he only had three, so the last couple of holes were a bit tentative, none of them went in to the water though. Had a drink in the clubhouse, I was gasping having followed him round and then back into town. Picked up a couple of souvenirs and back on the chug chug ferry. Eating out in town again tonight. Forgot to put any suncream, on my face today so look like lobster.

This is the last blog from New Zealand; we leave Russell today for Auckland before flying out to Tahiti tomorrow. We cross the dateline during the flight so gain a day and I think we will be about ten hours behind you instead of ten hours in front. We then fly again on Monday morning to Raiatea where we pick up the boat and sail for a week. Unlikely to be in contact during this time and hopefully will send the last blog once we hit dry land again.

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