Trotters Gorge to Curio Bay

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The sun rose over the cliffs of the gorge, illuminating the yellow Gorse that was clinging to its sides. Directly in front of the vans windscreen was a flowering tree and energetically hopping through the branches, feeding on nectar was a very confident male Bellbird. The sunlight shone off the blue feathering on the birds head. The woodland resounded with this species distinctive calls. I set up my camera!

After a late breakfast and an hours writing, Pili and I decided to explore the path leading into the woodlands. On the way we saw some Redpolls, this is a British species introduced last century along with the Chaffinch, Blackbird, Song Thrush and several other animals, all to make the Brits feel more at home!!!

Our woodland stroll was very pleasant with a couple of caves hidden away along the path.

The visitors to the woodland were increasing by the hour, and after one guy asked Pilar if she had a gun or a knife to protect herself against the wild pigs and deer in the woods, we though we’d best leave. The ignorance of man never ceases to amaze me.

We made a slight detour to Shag Point where we saw our first Yellow Eyed Penguins; unfortunately they were scared of by irresponsible tourist getting to close. These are the Worlds rarest penguin and I’m amazed that the public can access the beach here where they nest. One of the intruders nearly got bitten by a well hidden Fur Seal, I’d have caught it all on camera, that’s if I could control my hysterical laughter.

Our next destination was Dunedin, more specifically, Taiaroa Head and the Royal Albatross Colony. When we arrived it was getting dark fast so we decided to book into the only campground on the peninsula, The Portobello Campsite, it was a good chance to do some washing and a long hot shower. I actually only had a couple of hours sleep, awake at 3am so I used the time to sort through my recent photo files.

The lady on the front desk was very welcoming and when I told her that we’d spent nearly two month touring the island and filming the wildlife. She offered she give Bob Brown, the head of the Wildlife Film crew for the national NZ TV Company a call as he was a friend and that he might be able to offer some advise on the best wildlife locations in the area. Another great contact made.

At 9am the next morning I spoke to Bob Brown on the office phone. He apologised that he couldn’t come down personally to meet with me. He was currently working for National Geographic project and was tied up with this, but he did pass on some great info. He also said if and when I was back in NZ I should give him a call and he might be able to give me some projects.

We spent most of the day at the site until decided to head toward the Albatross Colony at 4pm. We needed petrol but were told their were no station on the peninsula, damn this meant a hours drive back to Dunedin and then back again. We didn’t want to risk running out and having to pay for a call out.

Petrol scored and a shopping trip to Pack n Save (NZ answer to Aldi) we headed back to the top of the Peninsula. About 2km from the top of the Peninsula we saw a large black back pack bobbing along the road. It turned out to be two Danish girls who we saw at the campsite the previous night. It was nearly dark and it was obvious they were heading in the same direction as us, I pulled over and Pili offered a lift. It was a tight squeeze. I couldn’t believe the size of their bags and they told us they intended to travel this way for a month!!!

We couldn’t actually get to the Albatross Colony because it was off limits because chicks were on the nests. This was no a real problem, we just looked up and these huge birds were flying above us, being harassed by the red-billed seagulls. The three metre wing span of these incredible birds against the sky line reminded me of what a Pterodactyl must have looked like in prehistoric times. We braved the cold winds for a good couple of hours, photographing the birds. This is the only inland colony in the World and I was going to make the most of it. At about 7:30pm we were numb from the cold so we all climbed into the van and blasted ourselves with the heater, this is the best thing about the JUCY van. Within 10mins we were toasty and I suggested we brave the elements again and wait by the shore line for the little Blue Penguins to come in for the night. Fortunately the Danish girls were also wildlife enthusiasts, which is just as well considering. The penguins scrambled ashore about 5 minutes before dark, about 8:55pm, it was very cold by now and many of the spectators had given up already. This is the nature of wildlife watching, ya gotta tough it out, but when it goes to plan it’s always worth it. Several English people had stopped by on the way back to their cars to ask me if I thought the penguins would arrive, and where about. I knew they’d be in and just before dark, I told them to hang in there and that they would appear, thankfully they did as I predicted. This is the smallest penguin species in the World, growing to 35-40cm and weighing in at only 1kg. Very, very cute beasties indeed.

It was now very dark and I had to find somewhere safe for us all to spend the night. I didn’t fancy camping in a Dunedin city park and we couldn’t park on the peninsula and it was very restricted. After an hour driving around it the dark I found a road side rest area on Hope Hill which would have to do. I made the four of us some hot soup and the girls set up the tent, brave girls. We all slept soundly.

21st October 2008

On arising to the sound of traffic we made a quick coffee and a bowl of porridge and hit the road. We headed to Nugget Point, just north of Owaka, At the very tip of the headland is a lighthouse and several small island that are occupied by Penguins, both the Blue and Yellow Eyes species, New Zealand Sea lions, Fur seals and a small population of Elephant seals. The coastal road is quite breathtaking, long beach after another long beach. The sides of the cliff are cover with vegetation and the trees are deformed by the winds, looking like some enterprising soul has been around with a hedge trimmer. The Danish girls, Annu & Mitte saw their first seals from the cliff tops, we were pleased for them. At the Lighthouse we gather at the lookout point and below us were an impressive Gull colony and many seals and sea lions, including at least one Elephant Seal. On the way back we decided to try and see the Yellow Eyed Penguin come ashore, after a two and a half hour wait they failed to show. We made camp next to the ‘Sandy Bay beach’, made dinner, a sausage curry and finally crashed at 10pm exhausted.

I was awake at 6:45am; I missed the sunrise by 10mins, damn! I made a coffee and sent off some emails. The girls woke about 7:30am and went for a walk on the beach, Pili stayed in bed for another hour. A lone New Zealand Sea Lion lay sunbathing on the beach; I took some photo of it near the girls. When we returned to the van Pilar was stirring. I kicked her out of the van and made porridge for us all. I think Pili is getting quite fond of the oaty breakfast. After eating and washing up we took Pili to see our newly discovered friend, the NZ Sea Lion. I decided to film her with the beast in the background. The seal had other ideas, he roared and charged, Pili screamed like a cheerleader and made off up the beach. Even on a bad day for Pili, the seal wasn’t going to catch her; I guess he was just camera shy. Of course we all took the piss. We then squeezed back into the van and made off for ‘The Purakaunui Falls’, a lovely three tear waterfall at the end of a 20mins forest walk, splendid!

I also filmed a North Island Tomtit that was spotted by Annu; she didn’t know what it was until I told her. In fact she’d made quite a discovery. This black n white little bird is only supposed to exist in the North Island! Could this be yet another new discovery? We’ll have to wait and see.

On the way to Invercargill we briefly stopped off at the ‘Lost Gypsy Gallery’. This is a converted old bus that is full of add contraption, toys, curios and relic from past ages. The garden is also full of weird and wonderful designs and sculptures. It’s free to look around and I 100% recommend it to any passing traveller. It was actually closed when we arrived so we just admired the sculptures and oddments outside. The owner who lived in a van at the back of the garden obviously saw us playing with his creation and come down to open up for us. On entering he played ‘Whole Lotta Love’ by Led Zeppelin. I told him that John Bonham was from my home town, Redditch. This started a conversation that moved through music, ecology & politics. It was a pleasant sharing of minds and I’m very pleased to have met this eccentric gent.

As was leaving a flier on the wall caught my eye. It was referring to Burt Monroe and the Anthony Hopkins film ‘The Fastest Indian’ (if you haven’t seen it PLEASE watch it. This is one of our favourite films) Burt Monroe lived in Invercargill, and he set the motorbike land speed record back in 1967. This was and old guy who built his bike in his own little workshop at the back of his house and beat the big guys in racing at their own game. The fastest Indian refers to his Indian motor bike. Anthony Hopkins at his very best, and all a true story. We’ve go to visit Hayes Hardware that has his original bike, I can’t wait.

We made a brief stop at McLean Falls; I stayed in the van and wrote while Pili and the girls did the hour trek. I very glad I stayed behind because I managed to photograph a Shining Cuckoo, a new one to my list, I did get bitten in the process though, damn flies!

Our final destination for the day is the beautiful Curio Bay. This is the home to another Yellow Eyed Penguin colony. The girls were desperate to see them so I told them all to wrap up well, grab the chairs from the van and a quilt as we could be in for a long, cold wait. From the viewing deck overlooking the Petrified Forest that lay on the rocky plateau below us we sat and watched for two and a half hours, it was COOOOOOLD but eventually we were rewarded by two of the metre tall penguin emerging from the crashing surf. Like most penguin they scrambled ashore and then stood around preening for a good twenty minute. This is essential as the small insulating feather have to be kept in top shape, so a good clean before bed is the norm thankfully. This makes penguins a joy to photograph, if you have the patience for the wait.

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Photos

Trotters Gorge
The side of the very steep gorge

The Bellbird
This bird has the most beautiful and haunting song

Redpoll
A little bird from England, one introduced by the ex-pats to remind them of home

Our first Yellow Eyed Penguin
This is the Worlds rarest penguin

He on the move, damn tourists!
Shag Point

Another little fellow
Shag Point

Otago Harbour
Looking back to Dunedin

Otago Peninsula
Heading to the very end

Danish hitchikers
Annu & Mitte

Taiaroa Head
This is the only inland colony in the World