South Island's Stunning Scenery and Funny Nights


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Oceania » New Zealand » South Island
March 26th 2007
Published: August 8th 2007
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Lake MathesonLake MathesonLake Matheson

From a different angle. Mirror reflection in the lake is stunning.
The South Island story so far: Picton - Marlbourough Sounds - Picton - Nelson - Abel Tasman National Park - Barrytown - Franz Josef - Makarora. We've been busy, eh?

After the early ferry boat across over to the South Island, we arrived in the small town of Picton. It is very pleasing to the eye, being the first port of call to all arriving to the South Island, I suposse it should be! It seems to me to be the place to go in NZ when you retire, as there is not much to do, but is beautiful and peaceful. We stayed here twice, before and after getting the water taxi to the Marlbourgh Sounds for a few days in a relaxing eco-retreat. The frist night we cooked a roast, celebrating having the use of an oven, impressing the Scummer that we have been travelling with up to that point, and the second was spent in a cosy little hostel called the Juggler's Rest. We had high expectations of this hostel, and were eager to learn some tricks from the owners, as one of their highlights, however, it has recently changed hands, but is now run by a woman
Marlbourgh SoundsMarlbourgh SoundsMarlbourgh Sounds

One of the amzing views of the Sounds from the peak.
who fire pois. I thought that this would be a great place to learn some new poi tricks, but unfortunatly she didn't feel like doing anything whilst we were there, such a shame. Didn't even get to see if she was as amazing as the other guests all said that she was, or learn new tricks, but still got to play with all the toys in the garden for the evening, and watch a few guys that were doing mental juggling tricks behind their backs, very impressive. The best thing though was the mirror that was in the garden, so as it got dark, the LED poi came out, and I watched the lights in the mirror, finally getting to see what it looks like at the same time as doing it, mesmerized by the lights. That was pretty cool, could have watched it for hours!! We walked a small costal trail in Picton that took us to Bob's Bay, a lovely little beach, with only a few other people on, where we had the most beautiful views of the Sounds and stunning clouds over the top. Special. Another little treat that I would recommend going to, if ever there,
Nelson BeachNelson BeachNelson Beach

Yet another pretty beach.
is the pub in the boat, in the dock of the harbour, very novel way to have a beer, and watch the manta rays swim on by.

In the Marlbourgh Sounds we stayed in beach side hostel in Lochmara Bay, that you can only get to by boat, and from the Queen Charlotte tramping Track, so is quite isolated. So beautiful. The surrounding scenery is stunning, we tramped up to the summit of the closest mountain to us, to see the 360 degree view of the Sounds, where there are so many peninsulas that there is more coast line than the whole of Britain, just in this one little place. We had free use of the kayaks and the row boat, so went exploring a little by sea. You would have laughed at us manuvering the row boat, it was a bit of an antique, so was hard, but it was amusing. The eco-retreat had everything you could possible want for a few days in isolation from the rest of the world!! They were breeding endagered birds, and some geckos, and also had a farm with some sheep (funny to watch, as when you approached them they would run
View of Abel Tasman from Stant PlaneView of Abel Tasman from Stant PlaneView of Abel Tasman from Stant Plane

Just to prove that it was taken from the stunt plane, the wing has been shown!
away from you, but then stop about 10 meters away and act as if they had never run away scared), a glow worm gully, and many trails around the forest in the grounds, and it had access to the Queen Charlotte Track. In the sea was phospherescence plankton. At night we threw rocks in to the water and the p.p shinned and glistened, like a firework display in the water. You could see the rocks sink to the bottom of the sea, and one time we even saw a fish swim under the water, must have been trying to escape the stone. The plankton light up as a defence mechanism, to attract bigger predators to those that are the predators to them. One night we jumped into the water and swam around for a bit, with goggles on I could actually see the plankton, looking like beads of illuminosity, really amazing to see. We then ran to the spa pool to warm up, as it was really cold in the water, as you would expect. So really, when we were in the water, they were trying to attract sharks to come and eat us!! There are no sharks though, don't
Abel Tasman BeachAbel Tasman BeachAbel Tasman Beach

It is really amazing how far the tide goes on some of the beaches.
worry!!

After stopping at a winery in Bleinhiem to sample the local wines and liquor, wearing the drivers shamrock, St. Patrick's Day after all. I must say, the wine is lovely, all tasted great. Starting early on the old drinking front, later that day we hopped off the bus to stay in Nelson, and celebrate St. Paddy's Day, with Geoff and Jen, who we met in Lochmara Lodge, in the local Irish bar called The Mean Fiddler. As the legend goes, the bar is owned by an Irish guy, also the singer in the band that plays there. The reason he opened the bar was because he was barred from performing in any of the other bars on account of his inability to sing in tune, and nobody could tell him that he couldn't play if he owned the bar. We found the story to be correct, and he, indeed, could not sing in tune, although the packed bar were not fased by this, it sort of added to the Irish charm of the night, as he played dodgy covers and made lines up that he couldn't remember. A classic evening, muchos funos!! The treck to Tahunanui beach also
Barrytown Dress UpBarrytown Dress UpBarrytown Dress Up

You may not find this as funny as me, but check Adam out, in the front row!
provided to be a fun time, the wind going against us was so strong that if you closed your eyes and stuck your arms out to the side, it produced a sky dive simulation!! The beach was really beautiful, many pictures were taken along the way!! Sand flies everywhere though, savage bastards!!

The introduction to Abel Tasman National Park was one that I will never forget! I flew a stunt plane over the National Park, and were taught how to do barrel rolls and loop da loops. Can you beleive that!! It was a small, two seater plane, with me in the front side, sitting on a cushion so I could see over the nose, and the pilot instructor in the seat behind. He took off and landed the plane, and had control of the foot pedals, but once we were high enough in the sky, I had control of the joystick. The views were amazing from the top, could see the whole National Park and surrounding mountains, the sky was clear, so it was a perfect view, and the sun was starting to set, adding to the effect. Not that I was concentrating too much on the views,
Franz Josef Blue IceFranz Josef Blue IceFranz Josef Blue Ice

Incredible. Will never see ice in the same way again!!
I had the joystick in my hands, pulling hard left and hard right to barrel roll!! The craziest bit was doing the loop da loop, since to get enough speed up to do it involved pointing the nose down to the ground for a bit, then gradually pulling back on the controls, and suddenly you are upside down, before returning back round again. So much fun, I can't possibly describe how much fun it was, and how easy the joy stick control was to grasp, although I am sure that the rest of the flying is harder. After my go, the pilot guy took controls again, and showed off his tricks, taking me from +5 to -2 g-force. He said that I was handeling it really well, so was having fun doing the crazy stuff, sweet as!! Found out after that he taught himself to do the tricks, although was obviously a qualified pilot before hand, from a book!! It is the only place in the world that you can do that, so feel privaliged to have experienced it. The change in g force, and flying in a stunt plane didn't make me fell sick, but the minibus journey taking us to the farm made me feel sick, maniac drivers!! The next day we took a water taxi to Anchorage Bay in the National Park, and tramped back, visiting Cleopatra's rock pool, with many boulders to climb across, and the most beautiful beaches, that seemed to get more stunning as the day progressed, as the tide went out. Felt as if we walked further than the Tongario Croosing, all the side trecks to the beaches added up, for a few split seconds I was concerned that we wouldn't make it back to the farm (yes, we stayed on Old Macdonalds Farm, a fully working farm with lama, bulls, cows, sheep, and a cockerall that woke us up every morning at 6.30) before dark, but there was no need to worry. We stayed in a permenant tent on the grounds, sharring with Geoff, which made a nice cheaper change to a dorm room.

On the journey onwards to Barrytown, a town with population of 20 people, we stopped off to admire some amazing scenery, and take a short cliff top walk to a seal colony. We were quite high up, so the seals were small from that distance, but could still see a mother seal give her baby seal a quick kiss before lying down on the rocks, and blending in. So sweet. In Barrytown we stayed in the local pub, which was also backpacker accomodation out the back, turned out to be very handy, as you can imagine. Stray claim to stop here because it isn't in the Lonely Planet, and is better than Greymouth (which I can see), although have heard that the owner of the pub is friends with Stray, although that does not deter from the fact that we had a wicked night of fun. There is a cornor of fancy dress clothing, and happy hour is extended if you are dressed up. It seemed as if it was an excuse for all the males to dress as ladies!! It was quite scarry how they all got into it as much as they did, even using the ladies loos once dressed up, and going to the toilet in pairs. As it goes though, what happens in Barrytown, stays in Barrytown, but I can say that I have never laughed so much. Our bus really bonded that night!! The morning after the night before, I tried my hand at the bone carving, making a pendant out of a piece of cow bone. Technically not vegan friendly (sorry Granny), but the cows are not killed for the bones, just making use of the left overs, and they may have even died of natural causes. The bone pendants are a NZ tradition, but the chance to make it myself was great fun. Involved a lot of sanding, a good hang over cure, and I was impressed with the outcome.

Next stop was Franz Josef Glacier. This glacier is special due to it being only 200 meters above sea level, and being in the middle of a rainforest. We took an 8 hour treck from the bottom of the glacier, and zigzagged up and across the glacier as far as the guide would take us. The ice lower down was a bit muddier, on account of the surrounding areas, but the higher we went up, the cleaner, and bluer the ice appeared. It really was stunning to see. Caves had been formed by the ice, but melt quickly, and form in other places. The environment is quickly interchangable, new tracks have to be icechopped away every couple of days. We had special crampons to attach to the boots, to give extra grip, meaning we had to excentuate each stamp down to make sure they gripped enough. Certainly a different experience to every other so far, and incredible at the same time.

On the way to our last stop of the journey so far, Makarora, we stopped at Lake Matheson, so see the famous reflection in the water of Mt Cook and Mt Tasman. The water in the lake is much more reflect than other water, although the reason for it, I do not know. It is like a mirror though, as you will see from the photo, amazing. Arriving in Makarora, we walked down to the lake, which I believe to be the start, or end, of Lake Wanaka, where some of our bus were taking part in the jet boating, when they steered towards us completly soaked us with a 10 ft wave, the bastards. They said it was the highlight of their trip though, soaking us!! This town is only slightly bigger than Barrytown, so not much else to do other than drink in the bar, seemed to be compulsory, as there was a karaoke competition, and you have to be pissed to do karaoke!! Geoff and Andy started the night off, and kept singing untill others were drunk enough, team Sweeden did an ABBA cover, very amusing, followed by everyone singing in a big group. We had a bet with the driver, Noddy, that it 10 of us sing, he would sing. He didn't clarify that he meant 10 songs, so by getting everyone up in one go, we succeded in getting him to sing. Everyone was scared to go up in the beginning, but later, we didn't want it to end, we did a couple of girls songs, and the boys did a few groups, and Adam did a great version of Tenacious D, F*** her Gently. The night ended with naked drinking in the middle of highway 6, out the front of the resort (although this sounds dangerous, it is an empty road at night, since it is in the middle of nowhere), apparently, we have made Noddy a legend as a driver. I have no more to say on the matter!! What happens in Makarora, stays in Makarora!! Funny few nights we have had recently. Sad to say goodbye everyone (too many names to mention) as we jump off the bus to our next destination.. Let the fun continue.

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26th March 2007

miss you mrs smeryl
sounds like your having a wicked time. so jealous. miss you, but you ain't missing much here!
26th March 2007

Ooooh Pretty Lights
Poi in the mirror, yes i understand i saw myself in a window once and then smacked myself in the head in the most mighty way cos i got distracted by sparkly things. Also Glow in the Dark Water i want some kinda night light like
26th March 2007

oh cheryl it's all so very beautiful ....the photos....the descriptions....the excitement of doing the loop da loop . wow i don't think you'll want to put your feet to the ground again. it's a good job you've had loads of training for the nights in the pub.....all that drinking..but great fun. now you have another new skill...bone carving...so multi talented. Love you...mum xxxxx
1st April 2007

heya huney its me im shit i know but im back on it now will not leave it this long to write again amy has now renamed me illusive lucy !!wow wow and wow is all i can say that just read your last three blogs and there amazing feel like im there !! loved reading your nz entries i think you ave def done more in nz in a couple of weeks than i did in 7 Years !! lol , ive been to that mario village in rotaroa how nice is that corn !! well im missing you heaps huney its just not the same with out chez but i abe sum good newes ive saved up enough money so that i can come out and meet you for a month when you are asia !! woohoo im so excited , well im going to write you an email now love you lots hun speek yo tou soon xxxxxx

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