Stewart Island and the Catlins Coast

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The above panorama is of Porpoise Bay, somewhere in there are some Hectors Dolphins.

February 20th - 25th 2011

Stewart Island

Well, the kiwi were as elusive as the kea, not that we were really surprised. We had a good time on Stewart Island, but it wasn't as good as we expected. I think it was the weather more than anything, it's hard to do much outside in the rain!

Rain apparently falls on Stewart Island, or Rakiura, about 265 days a year. Halfmoon Bay gets about 1600mm, and the south and west of the island can get up to 5000mm a year. No wonder the island is covered with lush rainforest!

The Maori name for the island, Rakiura, came about when Te Rakitamau, the second son of Tukekawa crossed Te Ara a Kewa, or Foveaux Strait, to Mouterenui (Big Island) to ask a Kati Mamoe chief for the elder of his daughters in marriage. He found that she was tapui (betrothed) to another and blushed in embarrassment, asking for the hand of the second daughter instead. When he found that she was tapui also, he blushed even deeper. From this arose the saying “Te raki o te uranga a Te Rakitamau” - the day of the blushings of Te Rakitamau. In memory of the event, the saying was used as a new name for the island and soon became shortened to Rakiura (blushing skies) or Raki (Te Rakitamau) ura (blushing). One of the earlier Maori names for the island, Te puka a Te waka a Maui (the anchor of Maui's canoe) refers to the story of Maui's discovery of New Zealand. He used the South Island as a waka (canoe) to fish up the North Island while Stewart Island anchored his canoe.

Rakiura today is often translated as the land of glowing skies (bright sunrises and sunsets). Stewart Island is named after William Stewart who began charting the southern coasts of the island in the early 1800's while on board the sealing vessel Pegasus.

We got to Oban, the main (only) settlement on Stewart Island (pop. ~400), mid morning and headed up to the hostel. We had to wait for our room to be cleaned, but once we were installed and had eaten, we went for a wander round “town” to find out what we could do. The info centre was run by Real Journeys / Stewart Island Experience and so mainly advertised their tours. There was one evening walk, but at $50 seemed really expensive. We asked what we would see on this tour out to Ackers Point, not an unreasonable question we thought, and got the useful reply of “birds and trees”. So we didn't book that tour! We can see birds and trees on our own. We also found out that the only trip that went looking for kiwi involved too much to easily and safely take Samara. We did consider one of us going one night and the other the next, but in the end decided not to bother. Obviously we weren't having an adventurous moment.

We walked out to Ackers Point ourselves to have a look at these birds and trees. While we couldn't identify all the trees ourselves, we didn't have a problem with the birds. We followed the coast road along the edge of Halfmoon Bay (Oban harbour) to the start of the track to Ackers Point. One of the first places we got to along the track was Harrold Bay and the remains of the stone house built in 1835 by Lewis Acker (making it one of the oldest buildings in NZ). The track continued through the coastal forest to the lighthouse at Ackers Point. Here we had good views out over Foveaux Strait, but as we'd come in the afternoon instead of evening, we didn't get to see any Blue Penguins. We could smell some though, so there must have been some hiding in burrows moulting. We were also too early to see Titi / sooty shearwaters / mutton birds, but we had seen those from the ferry on the way over. We also saw plenty of tui, wood pigeons, Grey Warblers, Fantails, Stewart Island Robins and tomtits.

That evening we treated ourselves to fish / burger and chips from the “kai cart” down the road from the hostel. It seemed like most of the hostel had also got fish and chips! It was one of the things to do on the island that we all fell for. The food was good, but not cheap considering that fishing is also one of the big things to do here. After dinner we took ourselves out for a walk just in case a kiwi or two decided to wander in our path. We had been told that they sometimes appeared in gardens in the settlement or on the rugby field. Our luck wasn't with us. It was a nice walk though.

The next day we headed for Ulva Island, one of the largest of several small islands in Paterson Inlet, off the south coast of Stewart Island. It is part of the Rakiura National Park and is managed by DOC as an open sanctuary. In a cruel twist of fate, we missed (on purpose) the 9am boat (ferry implies that is it a large boat, it sits 8 cosily) and took the 12 noon boat. Not long after we got to the island, it started to rain. Samara's comments about Ulva Island probably wouldn't go much beyond wet and miserable. She was not a happy camper stuck in her buggy with the rain cover on, the insides steaming up (it wasn't cold, just wet), not able to see a lot. Not that Colin and I saw a lot more than her. The birds had taken refuge from the weather somewhere else. If we'd gotten up earlier, we'd have had nicer weather (it was even sunny for a while) and would have seen more. Oh well. We did get to see a kaka, or forest parrot, reasonably close. We'd heard them the previous evening around the hostel and seen dark shapes flying about, but this one was sitting in a tree watching us. The rain hadn't started at this point and Samara was sitting there chattering away and occasionally doing her kea / kaka impression – a parrot like squawk. I think she had the kaka confused 😊 This kaka was more melodious in its calls than the ones last night that did screech more like Samara does. Soon after this kaka we met a Stewart Island Weka. Like the South Island or Western Weka we'd met at all those camp grounds on the west coast, this one had forgotten it was wild and followed us down the path for a visit. It looked for a while like it wanted to get into the buggy and see what was on offer. They really are curious birds, and well known thieves! Samara is fascinated with them, I guess they are a good size to watch and stick around for a while. Apart from a robin or two, some more weka at the Sydney Cove hut and a Fiordland Crested Penguin, that was our experience with birds on Ulva Island. Disappointing really. We couldn't even follow the self guided walks as it was too wet to get out the booklet! And we couldn't leave the island until the ferry returned at 3.30pm. We'd foolishly thought in the morning that 3-4 hours wouldn't be enough time to explore! We'd also been told that the paths were buggy friendly. Hmmmmm. Well, they were gravel not mud, thats one thing. And apart from the odd tree root they were wide enough. But no-one mentioned all the steps we had to carry Samara up and down. We were definitely left thinking how lucky we were to have an 'off road' buggy, despite how much room it takes in the van. And Samara may have been grumbling about being stuck inside her buggy rain cover, but she was the only warm, dry one to leave the island that afternoon!

Our last morning on Stewart Island dawned bright and clear but soon the rain clouds came back over again. We walked via Bathing Beach to the cemetery and on to Moturau Moana, or “islands of bush above the sea”, a native garden. Here we had our close encounter with another bird, this time a greedy, nosy kaka. We were sat having a snack overlooking Halfmoon Bay when we heard a screech and clatter and a kaka descended on the lookout. It hopped over to the buggy to see what was on offer and took off with an apple core we left there until we found a bin. We don't usually like feeding wild birds like that, but didn't really have a lot of choice! This kaka munched away at the juicy bits and spat out the rest, sitting quite close to us. We got the impression it often found food up there and was quite used to humans. We'd hoped to walk as far as Lee Bay and the entrance to the Rakiura NP, but we only got as far as Horseshoe Bay when we had to turn back. We didn't want to miss the ferry back to Bluff! We were clearing up after lunch at the hostel and getting ready to head down to the dock when we first heard there had been another earthquake in Christchurch and that it was worse than all the previous ones. Half known facts or rumours bounced back and forth – the cathedral had collapsed, someone had died – but we didn't find out just how bad it was till later that evening in the hostel in Bluff.

We treated ourselves to a night camping at a hostel, not for the shower, we'd used those on Stewart Island, but for the washing machine and drier. So between trips checking the laundry, we sat watching the tv in dismay and disbelief. One of the first things we did was to text family to let them know we weren't in Christchurch. They all knew we were on the South Island, but weren’t really sure exactly where. As you might be able to tell from these blogs, we are a long way behind in writing them. (I keep meaning to make this one brief and rush through what we did in an effort to catch up. I might try that idea again from here on.)

Catlins Coast

After a visit to Plunket for Samara's 5 monthly check and topping up the petrol and pantry, we headed out of Invercargill towards Dunedin along the Catlins Coast. We spent two days / nights here, and could have spent longer exploring. We had the usual issues on this trip, not enough time and a baby who cant sleep if we keep stopping and starting all the time. It is a stunning area so I will try not to race through too quicky! I'll save time by saying that the scenery was ranged from beautiful to impressive to amazing, and everything in between. Forests, fields, beaches, rugged coastline, waterfalls, wildlife, no wonder its fast becoming one of the must do drives here.

Our first stop was at Waipapa Point, the site of NZ's worst civilian shipping disaster, the wreck of the SS Tararua in 1881. We didn't stop because of that, or for the historic lighthouse, but for the chance to see some Seal Lions on the beach. And we did, our first on this trip (before it had been Fur Seals). Next up was Slope Point, the most southern point of the South Island (its not Bluff as many people think, thats just the end of State Highway 1). The weather at this point was great and we could see Stewart Island and Bluff in the distance.

We stopped for the night at Curio Bay. In the afternoon we visited one of the worlds most extensive and best preserved fossil forests (Jurassic) and sat on the cliff watching the Hectors Dolphins feeding in Porpoise Bay (just round the headland we were camping on from Curio Bay). In the evening we went to see some Yellow Eyed Penguins. The fossil forest was pretty neat, it wasn't just tree stumps as Colin was expecting, though there were plenty of those. There were more logs I guess you would call them, lying along the beach on and under the rocks. Hopefully the photos will show them better than I can explain. At first you just see the big ones below the access steps (and get annoyed at all the tourists walking along them getting in the way of your photo!) then as you wander along the beach, you find more and more of all sizes. We also saw one penguin there, as we found out later it was a juvenile that was only visiting. It may have been one of last years chicks come home a bit early, but it wasn't living there . Apparently the penguins that do live there have been giving it a hard time if it comes too far up the beach. They can get quite territorial. We found out all this, and more, from the DOC worker who keeps an eye on the penguins when they come home at night. Or maybe I should say she keeps an eye on the people watching the penguins at night. Even with her there some people didn't quite get (or chose not to understand) the rules about distance from the birds and about not blocking the paths to their nests. We saw several more endangered yellow eyed penguins, or hoiho, that evening. We went down before dusk but had quite a wait for some to emerge from the water. One came out early and sat just above the tide line preening itself. Apparently they get hot swimming all day, and preen themselves and cool down before returning to their burrows. If you look under their wings and also their feet when they come out the water they are quite pink. As they cool down, the pink fades to grey. After a while another penguin came out of the water, but couldn't have been as hot or vain as it only had a quick preen before heading into the bushes. We didn't stay on the beach too long as once the sun went down it got cold and we all got hungry. (Don't panic Grandparents, we had taken a blanket for Samara so she didn't get cold!) Just round from where we had camped, there was a lookout over the beach so after a quick dinner we went there to see if we could see some more penguins. Talking to folk already there, we had missed another couple, but we saw more emerge from the sea, have a preen and work their way to their burrows. There are 8 pairs of penguins here, plus their almost grown chicks.

Our main stop the next day was at Cathedral Caves. We had to wait until the tide was low as thats the only time you can access them. They were very popular. There is a short walk down through the bush to the beach then along the beach a little way. We went in the first cave, clambering over the rocks at the side to avoid getting wet, only to discover that the two caves joined at the back and there was no pool of water at the mouth of the second cave. Still, clambering into the cave was our adventure for the day! We also walked the Tautuku Estuary board-walk looking for, and finding, the rare fernbird. We only found the walk and the bird while looking for something to waste a little time waiting for the tide.

We stopped at the start of the track to Jacks Blowhole but didn't walk there as it was raining, the tide was out and someone we met there said it wasn't very good. We spent the night at Nugget Point, one of the coldest nights so far. It was beautifully clear, the sky full of stars, but that together with a southerly wind made it a bit chilly.

From there we drove through Balclutha and Milton to Dunedin, stopping at some fossils dug out of a limeworks and a couple of spots along the beach. We had got hold of friends in Dunedin who have a daughter the same age as Samara, planning to just visit them, but were invited to stay the night too. Aaron and Yvette were also hosting friends escaping from Christchurch, so with six adults, one toddler and two babies, it was a full and lively house! But more of that in our next blog.

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Photos

A Kaka attacking the buggy
luckily Samara wasnt in it at the time!

Slope Point
the end of the south island

you gotta love that smile!
(the one on the left!)