Warm, warm ...Wanaka

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Route:

Haast - Wanaka - Cadrona - Arrowtown - Queenstown

Miles:

101

Food:

We are eating well in New Zealand. Food is generally (along with most everything else) about 2/3 the price. Though things like bread are unusually expensive - about double the price of the UK, quite why I cannot fathom as the quality is no better. Most of what we buy is grown in New Zealand, relatively little is imported (McDonalds advertises that over 95%!o(MISSING)f their ingredients are from NZ). Restaurant meals seem particularly good value by comparison to the UK, and the lack of required tip really makes a difference. Ben and the girls are really enjoying the seafood - they eat fish and chips at least twice a week and sardines for lunch everyday (Thea would have them for breakfast, lunch and dinner if she could) and I am enjoying the nationwide availability of falafel. There are reasonably stocked stores even in the tiniest of settlements, as they supply all the surrounding farms for a 60+km radius. Though beware, the map of New Zealand frequently lists place names that have no inhabitants - often these were thriving communities 50-100 years ago, but since the closure of an industry (such as logging, goldmining) everyone has gone. The most food we have ever had to carry is for 3 days. Because it is a long haul to the shops for a large number of the population and so many head off for overnight and long distance tramps a good selection of dried foods is available. I'm not sure their supermarket cake a biscuit selection can match the UK, but Cadburys is in a league by itself here - they have in excess of 20 varieties of family sized chocolate bar, and take a full display shelf in every shop - and yes I am slowly testing them all. They have even copyrighted the shade of purple they use!
The best place for cakes is in the cafe's, lots of great homebaking at what feels like half the price of the UK. The coffee is fabulous here too and when on offer neither Ben or I can resist. All the cafe's are kid friendly and offer a thing called a 'fluffy'. This is basically steamed frothy milk, served with marshmallows and whatever creativity can be acheived with chocolate sauce and sprinkles. At 35p each they are fab value treat for littlies, and a great way to get our two feral offspring to sit still at the table for 5 minutes!

Accomodation:

Since arriving we have camped most nights. Our favourites have been the DoC (Department of Conservation - pronounced as in the seven dwarfs) campsites, these are usually in very beautiful locations by a lake or river with just toilets and picnic tables and an honesty box for your fee. The fees are under 3 quid per night per adult and under 5's are free. Very rarely they will have showers, shelters or a kitchen. Other than that there are commercial campsites in most towns, and anywhere without will usually be able to find a spot to pitch a tent. The commercial campsites are really luxurious by UK standards with: Kitchens fitted with stoves, water boilers, fridges, freezers, BBQ's (often with a full range of dishes and utensils - though you can never count on it, and 'Top 10' only ever have the basics- except Invercargill), inside and outside dining area, a TV lounge (possibly with internet), showers, laundry. Often they have a childrens play area and some have swimming pools. The cost of these is usually 10 - 15 pounds for all of us for the night. We've only tried the cyclist B&B and that is just heaven for pennies, can't imagine we would ever find one as nice anywhere else. We've tried one hideous backpackers that cost about 28 quid for a smelly noisy dorm, and one glorious one that cost about 35 quid for a well equipt self contained unit, shared spa pool and great shared lounge. We've also tried a couple of motels, double units usually contain a double bed and a single, they never charge for under 5's and if the girls don't want to sleep top to toe they happily squeezed in another bed. They are all en-site with kettles, tea and coffee and some come with kitchens. They are generally from 30 - 50 quid a double, and there are motels everywhere. There are also boutique B&B's and luxury hotels...so I am told by Ben who picked up a book listing them in the library...he is now keen to try a few, so we are saving up for the May special deals, when all the other tourists have gone home...and our 2 sprogs might be more acceptable!

Diary:

Sweltering in our little tin shack, with the heating on full to dry all our belongings, I awoke to the sound of rain falling on the roof. I was so pleased we were escaping on a bus, and feverishly hoped that we might also escape the rain. By the time we'd had breakfast though the rain had stopped and there were distinct blue patches in the sky, and by the time our belongings were packed for the journey, the wind was blowing and had cleared all the rain clouds. With a few hours to kill before the bus we cycled to the beach (into the wind), and huddled there for an hour, until Lily led the beach evasion. Tucked round a corner waiting for the bus in the sunshine, noting that the strong wind would have been a tail wind Ben and I felt the first tinges of regret that we wouldn't be cycling to Wanaka. On the bus, viewing the countryside and campsites we would have stopped at compounded the feeling, and then discovering that the volume of Thea's stomach is just one wretch greater than the volume of the coffee cup I was trying to catch it in, finalised the sensation!
It really was a beautiful route through the mountains and by the lakes, and though it was hellishly windy when we arrived in Wanaka it was sunny. We chose a campsite with a pool and playpark and Lily's first comment was 'Mummy this is so much better isn't it, with a playground and a pool rather than a cold old lake?'
We did have 4 fabulous days there (though the pool turned out to be only 15 degrees, so Lily mostly just danced round it!). There were lots of lovely bays to paddle in (and plenty in the recycling bins), coffee shops, hot pools and great play parks. We even met a chap cycling round the world on a Penny Farthing. With no gears he has to push up the steep alpine hills (so now we know there is someone cycling more slowly than us in NZ). We ate curry, fish and chips and a gourmet lunch. The girls climbed to the top of Mount Iron (a 1.5 hour 245 meter climb) one afternoon, and then joined us at the climbing wall the following day. This was a fab experience, in a full body harness the girls were clipped to a rope and climbed as high as they wanted, then jumped off for a controlled descent. There were a range of different climbs and Lily managed to get to the top of one. Thea just loved clambering up the caving ladder and throwing herself off. It cost less than 2 pounds for each of them, an absolute joy. Once they were all tuckered out they settled down for about 3 hours with a box of toys while Ben and I found out how poor our climbing skills are now.
We were really quite sad to leave Wanaka as there were still loads of things we could and wanted to do, but after a long coffee at the sandpit cafe we started the long climb out of Wanaka to climb the highest sealed road in New Zealand. We rough camped just outside Cadrona and set off for the summit the following day. As it was a Saturday we had plenty of biking company with all the local clubs out on training rides. As they passed they updated us on how much further to the summit. 2km from the top the road became very steep and it took all my effort to cycle it, I am truly truly impressed that Ben managed to make it to with all that weight behind him - though it should be noted here that what started as an estimated 40k load appears to increase by roughly 5k a week - according to Ben - I overheard him last week telling a guy he was towing 70Kg...we have to get it weighed.
Anyway eventually we made it and looked down the valley to Queenstown. It was very windy so we didn't stay long and whizzed down into Arrowtown where we camped for the night. Here there are the very interesting remains of a chinese settlement of gold panners. Ostacised from the local community they lived a very impoverished lifestyle in tiny mud shelters. The girls thought these fantastic and Lily naughtily encouraged Thea to throw her sandals down the pit toilet...luckily it was no longer in use and the shoes could be retrieved with a long stick!
From Arrowtown we cycled to Queenstown over the Shotover gorge and Arthurs point. We have been here 3 days now, we've been on the gondola to the top of Bob's Peak, the girls loved the luge descent so we had to do it 'again, again, again'. Though Daddy did have a tendancy to crash! We've cycled round the lake, watched planes and helicopters take off at the airport, tandem paragliders and parasailers, jet boaters and bungee jumpers. We've been on a steam boat, fed sheep, deer and highland cattle, and watched a sheep get shorn. And we were planning to leave tomorrow and cycle our first gravel track across to Te Anau ( to avoid the endless procession of tourist coaches on their way to Milford Sound on the main route). But we have been offered a bargain overnight deal on Doubtful Sound tomorrow night and can't cycle there quick enough to take advantage. So we're off on a bus again, and bit of luxurious cruising. But it's back to the west coast and there's every likelihood a good soaking into the bargain!!

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Comments

[Matthew Henry]

HSL news
Hi Bron, Penny sent me the link for your blog. Great to hear you're getting on fine. Just to make you jealous of home - the sun's been out for 3 consecutive days here :-) M

[The Colemans UK]

You Are Wetting Our Appetite!
Hi guys, Great to hear all about your travels. We are sorting our trip in August. Not half as energetic as yours-we're hiring a car! Anyway, hope rest of trip goes well, and HAPPY EASTER! Simon et al.