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Published: March 18th 2009
Its hard to follow a day where you jump out of a plane, but actually the following day I did the most fantastic walk, called the Tongariro National Crossing, considered by many to be the best day walk in New Zealand. The walk passes over (live) volcanic craters and between 3 mountains, including Mount Tongariro and Mount Ngauruhoe - known as Mount Doom by Lord of the Rings geeks. Ahem, I mean fans.
The forecast was a bit touch and go, with wind and a few showers predicted. We were told it would be extremely windy at the summit of the walk, and even that we might have to go on our hands and knees at some points so we wouldn't be blown off. Even with that slightly offputting warning, I think everyone was quite overwhelmed by that part of the walk. Following on as it did from a lot of climbing, it was pretty heavy going heading for the top, finding yourself in a cloud with real gale force winds. The cloud also meant not seeing the view from the very top. However, on beginning the descent on the other side, the clouds parted, and the sudden and breath-taking vista
of mountains, craters and the Emerald lakes was somehow all the more special because of the build up.
Its got me itching to do lots more walking here; there's no shortage of stunning scenery.
After a very comfortable night at a National Park lodge, it was then on to Wellington.
Its definitely as windy as its reputation implies, and I was feeling a distinct drop in temperature - later assured it was an unusual cold snap for the time of year, and in fact it has warmed up. Still, I am aware that my cold weather clothes are somewhat lacking and may have to do something about this!
I very much enjoyed Wellington as a city - culturally there is alot going on, especially given how relatively small the population is. I saw a couple of plays at 2 of the many theatres, a choral evensong at the cathedral (not a particularly good choir though I have to say), an art gallery displaying the annual drawing competition; and the Te Papa museum, much hyped but worth it. I also took in a parliament tour, Mount Victoria (for views of the city) and the cable car up to the beautifully designed
Botanical gardens. There was alot of music around - buskers, pub bands, the odd stage on Cuba Street and the "Homegrown" music festival was taking place by the waterfront.
I have the good fortune of knowing a few people in New Zealand and met up with an old work friend, Janina, who took myself and couple of fellow backpackers to a few of the cool bars in town. The next day she drove me and a couple of her friends along the coast line, stopping for tea, walks and stunning views.
The ferry from the North Island to the South Island has to be one of the most beautiful ferry trips you can do, and thankfully I had a beautiful (and most importantly not too windy) morning for it yesterday. I am now in Nelson, a charming town which I'm getting to know. One of the best hostels so far - it was a bit of a slow start this morning after sampling some locally brewed (and very strong) cider, served in the bar downstairs.
I popped into the Art Deco cathedral which overlooks the town from one end of the main street, and this afternoon walked to the "centre
of New Zealand" - perhaps not the greatest claim to fame, but a lovely walk with great views of Nelson, the Tasman sea and the Abel Tasman national park beyond. Looking the other way you see the Grampians.
Its St Patrick's Day today, so the bars were adorned with shamrocks and playing U2 as I walked back through town - I will opt for a quiter night back at the hostel.
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