Day 3: Franz Josef via Mt Hercules

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4/3/09 = Day 3: Hari Hari to Franz Josef...the Mt Hercules route + a ride of Borris.

Alarm went off at 7:30, but still sleepy. Not suprising really; one of coldest nights sleep ever had (although not as cold as Leeds Festival girls...that was a killer!). Fell asleep straight away at 8:45, but then woke up loads of times cold in night. Really should have paid $10 for duvet. Every time turned over, covers slipped off (I’m saying covers, but what I really mean is towel and scarf!) and was freezing again. Not good, so still tired at 7:30. Washed to both warm and wake myself up, shared some museli and then got packed up and set off at 8:45 for our 62kms journey to Franz Josef.

Lovely sunny day (although a bit bitter at first) and was a really nice cycle out of town...nice meaning flat! Had a steady cycle and chatted for first 6kms, then came Mt Hercules = a 200m, steep incline. Assessed situation, then head down, granny gear on and off we went, at the grand speed of 0.025miles an hour. In book (Pedallers Paradise), looked like a long, steep incline, but thankfully, flattened off in points and was more like lots and lots of mini climbs; no downhill though. Before started, had imagined would have to get off and walk some of it, but was actually not that bad. Granny gear was probably slower than walking, but was nice to have sense of achievement of staying on bike and biking it all. Took 15mins before got to top, but when did, could see awesome downhill. Woo hoo! Prepared to fly down, but then was totally disappointed at state of road. Was really steep and could have gone fast, but was also really windy too and not safe to fly round all corners at speed. Spent most have time braking, when should have been flying, so not happy; not a good reward for climb had just done.

Moved along through suprising changes in temperature. Road lined with trees either side = blocking sun. These shaded parts of road = freezing,k especially when moving quickly. As soon as was a clearing in trees, could feel heat instantly. Was like a change from a fridge to an oven. Found a sunny spot free from trees at bottom of descent and stopped for a drink and recovery. Just a short break, then continued on nice, flat, sunny road to Franz. Brilliant view again today because of sunshine. At first, could only see green trees, fields and hills, but as hours passed, drew closer to mountains and caught first glimpse of Mt Cook = awesome. Snowcapped mountains looked amazing against sunny greenery of country; brilliant to ride along. Were waiting for one and only town stop = Whataroa, 30kms into cycle. Not a bad cycle at all to get there and not at all as hilly as yesterday; much more enjoyable 😊. Got there in good time at 11am and although not hungry, still had to get something as was only food option until Franz. Stopped in a nice cafe and got a lovely ham sandwich. Gobbled it down with peanuts and raisins to follow...maybe was hungry after all. Drunk plenty of water, chatted to an old guy from London who was v.impressed by our cycle trip, then off we went for second part of ride.

Second half of ride was even more impressive than first. Got amazing views of Mt cook and snowy mountain range, which could see for all rest of journey if just turned head to left. Awesome. Love NZ. Had a few more hills and body more achey today because second day biking in a row, but didn’t last too long, as stopped in Lake Mapourika, 10ks before Franz Josef. Sprayed up with insect repellent (sandflies = 1 really bad thing here), then had a nosey around lake. To be honest, wasn’t best lake have seen, so didn’t stay long. A campervan offered to fill up our water for us (v.nice) then we did last part of journey to Franz. Last part was one of hardest, with quite a few hills, albeit undulating and not too steep. Managed it o.k., but bum feeling pain. Can tell going to be sore today! Had some more amazing view of Mt Cook in last few k’s, then finally arrived in Franz Josef town. Yeh! Asked at i-site where could find hostel, then did last bit of pedalling until got there. Checked in, chained bikes up and v.happy to find out they had free unlimited internet 😊

Enquired about a few things to do whilst in town and noticed horse riding = something have really been meaning to do. Lady at reception really recommended it and rang to find out they still had a space left for 5pm today. Really wanted to do it and sounded like an amazing ride with great views, but just didn’t know if poor bum and knees could take it. Can’t think of anything more painful for bum and knees than walloping up and down in a saddle. Ruminated on it for ages before finally decided to go for it. Such a nice day outside and nothing else to do...bum will just have to deal with it...got a rest off bike for a few days anyway. Booked riding and also enquired about a skydive. Me and skydiving...never would have thought it. Have never wanted to skydive...ever...even when all friends have done it. But, so impressed and in awe of views here; can’t think of anything better than jumping out over snowy mountains and lakes like these. Tried to book on for a dive, but weather suspected to take a turn for worst, so provisionally booked for Friday morning, but with likelihood it would be cancelled.

Horse riding lady came to pick me up at 4:45 and we drove off to stables; good luck bum. Good luck me too; haven’t ridden in over 10yrs! Was another couple (Australian) riding too and when horses were saddled up, we jumped on. My horse = Borris and just what you would imagine for a horse called Borris = dapple grey and v.sleepy. Lady warned me that he would try and be lazy and quite hard work and as soon as set off, he proved she was right...bless him. We were always at back, despite my constant nudges, but was nice really; could pretend he was mine, just like always imagined when little. Kept having to trot to catch up, but was good practise for me and I needed practise. Felt good to be back on horse...that’s what I would like for christmas next year Mum please 😊 (how many times have you heard that before I wonder? Ha!). Walked through a field track and then all trotted off. V.nice and civilised and started to get hang of it again. Then had a go at cantering. Was never v.good at cantering anyway and definitely didn’t get it right this time. Wobbled and jerked around in seat - to great displeasure of bum cheeks - and was a wonder I stayed on at all. Quite glad when that part was over, but definitely need more practise. Then we were at perfect viewing platform for glaciers and snowy mountains. Beautiful. Had some photos, then went back along same track and did more trotting and cantering. Got much better second time round and managed to actually stay in saddle. However, poor Borris tripped over a rock at one point, which meant he lost his footing, I lost my balance and my feet popped out of stirrups. Oh no...just when I was getting a little cocky. Wobbled about in saddle as Borris cantered furiously. Couldn't balance well enough to slow him down and couldn't get feet back in stirrups; all could do was hang on for dear life. Good job it was a western saddle and had something I could hold. Clung there for what felt like forever and planned my fall just in case I went over edge - which I v.nearly did a few times. Thankfully, didn't come to that and we only cantered for a few minutes. Borris stopped when all other horses stopped and I quickly re-adjusted feet and body to try and prevent imminent death. Did not enjoy that part, but I suppose that's why horses are dangerous.

Got another go at cantering on way back and was much better this time, with no falling and only a little wobbling. Really would like to do more riding when get home...not after a bike ride though! Slid out of saddle and onto ground with aching knees and a throbbing bum; didn't even know a bum could throb. Said bye to laxy Borris and then lady took me back to hostel. Found Deb there, went off to supermarket and bought dinner and lunch for trek tomorrow. Made a huge sweet and sour stir fry and went down v.well; well, most of it. Watched Goodwill Hunting, made packed lunch, then off to bed. Bum still sore and some of skin actually rubbed away 😞 How can exercise be bad for you?! Spent rest of night sleeping on side or belly; all contact with bum to be avoided!

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Photos

Before Mt Hercules
Wasn't smiling at the end!

Lake Wahopa
Beautiful...like lots of lakes here really.

The amazing Mt Cook range
One of the best scenic bike rides.

Getting closer to Mt Cook
Love it.

Even closer
A brillaint bike ride really.