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Published: April 3rd 2006
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Doubtful Sound
WOW...3 days of kayaking, I better pinch myself and make sure this isn't a dream... Part two...
Since going kayaking north of Vancouver BC two summers ago I have been dreaming about going sea kayaking again. When I decided to travel to New Zealand I read about Fiordland National Park and instantly the only activity I didn't want to miss in NZ was a 3 day kayaking trip into the fiord's. When I saw the pictures I almost couldn't believe it, after being there for 3 days I can honestly tell you the pictures don't do it any justice. Just imagine paddling five feet from shear granite mountains plummeting 3000+ feet into the sea. It was by far the best three days I've spent in NZ, and if you've been following the blog you'll know we've done some amazing things to this point. Onto the specifics...
I left Queenstown for my second adventure in driving the goon, only one stall...those dam hills always making it difficult for us amateur stick drivers. Went to the meeting the night before the kayak trip and was pleasantly surprised to find 5 other single travellers signed up for the trip, didn't have to worry about listening to a couple fight out in the middle of one of the
The kayaking gang...
This was at the end of the trip...aren't wet suits sexy...Vickii, Felicity, Alec, Jo and Katrina. most peaceful places left on this planet. At the meeting I met the group, Alec - Ireland, Jo - Montreal, Kat - Ontario, Felicity - Australia and Vickii - Kiwi, living in OZ. Everyone seemed as excited as me, so that was awesome. I was pretty psyched before the meeting but once I was sitting there it really set in that I would be going the next day to Doubtful Sound, truly an almost untouched piece of wilderness, or at least as untouched as I need to go find. There are no doubt more remote places in Fiordland, but my motto has always been live to play another day. It was off to the supermarket to buy supplies.
My alarm went off at 5:15 in the morning and I popped up, no snooze button that day. Packed up my gear, had that ever important cup of coffee, jumped in the car and headed back to the office to meet the van that was taking us to Manapouri to catch our boat across Lake Manapouri. So after grabbing everyone at their respective hostels we were off. Now the boat ride was beautiful, but it was just too early in the
Ben our wise and all knowing guide...
He was modest though...During a raft up on day three, I just couldn't get over the scenery, and these pictures don't even do the view justice morning to take any pictures, so you'll just have to take my word for it. We got to the other side of the lake after a 45 minute boat ride unloaded all the gear and packed the van for the 22km drive across the pass to Deep Cove. By the way the only reason there is a road here is because there's a hydro-electric power station on lake Manapouri. So we jump in the van for the hour long drive, with the one stop at the top of the pass, look at the picture...amazing. We had blue skies and it was a perfect day for paddling. We hopped out of the van and were given our paddling gear, mind you the water in the sound is around 12c.
- Sleeveless Wet Suit
- Thermal Top
- Fleece
- Paddling Jacket, that sexy yellow jacket you see us wearing
- Neoprene paddling skirt
- Three hats, Cotton Baseball cap with neck flaps
- Fleece winter hat
- Rain hat...think Paddington Bear
So after we got all that gear on, Ben our guide packed all the boats, we threw our personal gear into the front and rear hatches and we were off. Did I mention it rains 180
Day one lunch spot
checkout those badass kayaks. days a year in Fiordland, this is actually the only place in NZ they measure rain in meters not centimeters. But for me they had sunshine and blue skies. We hopped in the kayaks, strong current from the power station outlets behind us, tailwind at our back (also quite unusual) and paddled 25km the first day. We made it further out than any other 3 day trip Ben has taken out this year. We had lunch on a stunning rocky beach, explored a few other beaches as potential campsites for the evening and just enjoyed the pristine views, and the silence, aside from the paddle cutting in the water. I'm not exaggerating when I say we saw about ten boats and three other kayak tours during the entire trip.
Now I do need to mention the one draw back of coming to Doubtful Sound...SAND FLIES...they look like gnats but they bite like mosquito's, and they are absolutely relentless. Fiordland is famous for them and it is the main reason there is barely any commercial development out here. But I managed to keep them at bay by applying 30% deet every 1-2 hours, I know what you're thinking, but trust
View from lunch
The sun was out, the breeze was blowing and the sand flies were biting...but man that might have been the best tuna sandwich ever. me when I say this, you would go absolutely mad if you didn't use repellent. Fortunately the guiding company brings a nice insect shelter for us to all sit in until the Sand Flies all go in for the evening when it gets dark out.
Now during the first night of the trip I had an experience that will probably go down as one of the top 5 highlights of the entire world trip. We had seen a few Dolphins when we were scouting out campsites but I was sitting out on the beach around 9:30 with Alec, everyone else had gone to sleep the tide was just starting to put out the campfire on the beach, and I was listening to the sounds of Dolphins smacking there tails, surfacing to take breathes. This was going on for about a half an hour, the starlight was the only light within miles of us when all off a sudden around 10m off the beach a dolphin swam by on the surface just to check out what was going on on the beach, simply amazing. Don't think I'll ever forget that moment, I almost pinched myself to make sure I wasn't
Scouting a campsite for day one
Didn't end up camping here, but it was a pleasant spot none the less. dreaming.
The next day was rainy and foggy, but it is actually nice to see the Fiords in this weather because that's the way it's supposed to be out here. We paddled around 15km, saw a lone Seal for a minute, paddled in and out of some spectacular fiords and just had an overall great day. We woke to rain on the third and final day, but as luck would have it the rain stopped just as we started to paddle. Now the last day we had to cover 22km with the current against us, lucky us the water was glassy all day like a giant mirror. There was no wind and it was one of the most still days ever. We were paddling for about an hour when all of a sudden about a dozen Dolphins swim right past our boats, one went right under my boat, and around 100-200 feet away a baby dolphin jumped out of the water and did a flip...simply amazing.
I wish I could write well enough to convey how amazing a place Doubtful Sound really is. I've been to many places in my life and this one really made me appreciate
the environment and I started to think how unfortunate we are that we've destroyed so many places in the world. But at least I got to see one of the last remaining pieces of untouched wilderness. If you're ever in NZ don't miss Fiordland, if I could do NZ all over again I'd come here first, and who knows I may not have made it to any other parts of NZ.
Well I'm off on the Keepler track tomorrow, one of the great walks. Hope you enjoy both the blogs and post lots of comments because I love getting them, they really bring a smile to my face.
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Dov
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Loving the Blogs
Hey Alan, sounds like you're having a helluva time. I love reading the blogs (even though it takes me weeks to catch up on 'em) and I am so happy to read about how much you are enjoying life. Life in NY is good, but we all miss our buddy AL. Be well man, and keep up the writing because you know I will be reading,