kepler track paradise

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i've just finished my first multi-day solo tramp in new zealand!! the kepler track is a new zealand great walk (which basically means they take really good care of the track because lots of people walk it) that starts and ends in te anu. i decided the easiest way to do this is to write my daily journal entries from while i was out....here goes.

day 1: te anu control gates to luxmore hut- 13.8km
this morning i woke early to birdsong outside my tent, crisp cold still air and a grey high ceiling of cloud. i made final preparations for my first tramp: checking and double checking stove, matches, tent, longies....the stuff you do. the air was so cold my fingers and toes felt like they might never warm up. i drank my coffee alone and in quiet before meesh arose. she drove me to the trail head and saw me off. the cloud cover had already lightened and the sun was starting to warm me. the first bit of the walk took me through a spacious moss covered forest with easy undulations in the track. it wasn't until about 5km into the walk that the real incline began.....it didn't stop until i reached the alpine zone just before the hut. strange to come over the crest of the last stretch of hard and true uphill and see the blue sky open up. there was no thinning of trees or transition from tall standing forest to alpine terrain....just boom open air. i was hot and sweaty and very happy to get into the breeze. lake te anu stood below me a deep dark blue and gave way to a tapastry of farming fields. just behind them lay densly packed forest rising to steep mountains. the surrounding ranges folded upon each other like flesh and their peaks reached with pale golden fists into the sky. in the distance the ranges looked hazy green. i traversed the last bit of trail and arrived at the luxmore (which sounds more like a fancy hotel than a hut). i rested, picked a bunk and had a snack overlooking the amazing landscape. i spent the afternoon exploring (briefly) caves and further along the trail. tomorrow is the alpine crossing and the weather forcast is for high winds and cloud turning to rain in the afternoon. i'll get up early to beat the wind and rain.

day 2: luxmore hut to iris burn campsite- 14.6km
i rose before the sun to howling gusts of wind around the hut....screaming through the hallways and up over the mountains that i will walk today. the air was frigid and i needed coffee and a moments worth of thinking to make a decision about the day....14km almost all of which is alpine including some long sharp ridges. over coffee i mustered some courage and decided to go. fear forces me to pay closer attention which is good on a section of trail like this. so, in full rain gear (mostly for warmth) i set off as the sun rose brilliantly in between the clouds. i continued the ascent of mt. luxmore and across two long ridge systems for a few hours. the wind was strong and almost knocked me off my feet a couple of times....it paid to have strong legs today. the wind was not steady, it came in great gusts almost without warning. i watched the steep slope of the ridge to predict and brace. there were white caps on the lake 1500m below. once i hit the bush again i was grateful....happy to be out of the wind. an exciting challenge....what i came here to do. i loved every minute of it, though scared and unsure at times. the icy wind on my face, being all bundled up, concentrating on every step....it was beautiful. now i'm lying in my tent. i can't tell whether it is raining outside or the pitter patter is the army of sandflies that have me completely surrounded. i'm trapped in my own tent!!

i took a nap and finally escaped from my tent. it started to drizzle, but i walked to see a waterfall a bit down the track. it followed a beautiful translucent green stream to the waterfall....clearly reflecting the deep green canopy above. the waterfally was gorgeous, feeding a big pool (also green). i would have jumped in had i not been freezing cold already. ok, off to bed.

day 3: iris burn to shallow bay campsite- ??km
did it ever pour last night!! i woke this morning and it was still coming down. like thunder inside my tent. the rain was supposed to let up so i didn't get out of bed until late. i was cold and a little soggy, but warmed up ok once i had my coffee and started walking. i found myself cruising on the trail. it followed gentle hills in woods bathed in green moss and soon opened into a nice field which gave way to 'the big slip (the remnants of a landslide from 1984). because of the rain there were waterfalls heaving off the cliffs on either side of me. one of them sprayed off into nothing halfway down. the clouds were hanging low in the valley and the wind was less than yesterday, but still present....the rain had lightened too. i re-entered the forest that led me to 'the big slip' and the trail was covered in tiny beech leaves making it almost bouncy....very easy to walk on. i followed a new river for a bit until it met lake manapouri which i then followed until shallow bay. a cruisy walk today and at a good pace. shallow bay is quiet....with only me here. it is cold though and the clouds keep the sun from warming me up. nevermind. i am sitting alone next to a quiet lake watching fish jump for their dinner. it doesn't get much better.

day 4: shallow bay to te anu control gates-??km
i woke early(ish) this morning....knowing it wouldn't take me the predicted five hours to get to my destination. i left myself a full hour to enjoy my coffee and lace up my boots for the final day. i was so pleasantly suprised at the day that awaited me. overnight the sky had cleared leaving only a couple of thin wisps of moisture lying low on the lake. the mountains beyond rose steadily up and out into a green range with sun ripponed peaks....all reflecting beautifully on the lake which hadn't yet been disturbed by the wind. i set off into the woods. the trees were drenched in silver as the sun trickled through the thin canopy onto the dew soaked leaves. i followed the trail through expansive wetlands all open and full of life. songs of the tui (bird) and fantail kept me company as my feet collided with the earth. a final change of scenery brought me to a river's edge. the river was wide and deep, fast flowing, but quietly gurgling beside me. i walked out of the woods stripped off my boots and took a space in some grass to relax while i waited for meesh.

we spent the afternoon walking around town and got ice cream....so so good on a hot day!!

a quick note for those of you who read my blog regularly....i won't be writing for a while yet. in a couple of days i'm headed off to the real backcountry to tackly the north west circuit. it is on stewart island....the southern most of new zealand's islands i think. it'll take me 10 days if i'm lucky with weather.

take care.

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Comments

[mom]

hey
Caitie: that Kepler track sounded great but as your mom it sounded scary, too. I know you're sick of me saying this but BE CAREFUL. I love you..happy valentine's day.

[Vicky]

Now I know
Thanks Caitie, my 16yr old daughter is flying to NZ to do the Kepler track in April,and as a mum I was worried. But now I read your trip I feel better, and hope you enjoy all your other planned adventures.

[di in oz]

thank you your notes helped! :)
I am thinking of going in early april on the kepler track. Your notes are great well done