New Zealand - Wk 4

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New Zealand – Wk 4

Monday 30^th Jan

A comfortable night was had in our little wooden hut and we woke to a fine sunny morning. No hurry to get up today so morning tea was taken whilst in ones pit finishing off a very good book and talking to family on Skype.

Once up and had breakfast we walked into Hanmer centre and found the Spa building along the main street. In we went and purchased entry to the Spa pools and half hour each in a private Sauna all for the sum of $63.00. We realised after we had left later in the day we were charged for only one of us, it should of been $126.00, oh well, Snooze you lose.

The complex is made up of ten or so small to medium pools, some filled with natural water with Sulphur from the hot springs under the town and the rest ordinary pool water but heated and with very powerful water jets that seem to penetrate and massage all the right places! In one pool three jets at once.

The natural pools where nice as long as you could put up with the egg aroumer wafting from the water. These were set at a temp between 38 – 40 deg, hot bath water.

The other pools where much the same temp but without the smell, they did though offer great entertainment in watching people get up close and friendly to the water jets and bubbles.

Our Sauna was great and acted as the perfect camper’s cleanser. I really must put my long made plans into action when i return and build one for home.

After a spot of lunch we found a couple of sun chairs, sat back and admired the views all around the complex. We were surrounded by mountains, pine forests and topped with perfect blue skies and sunshine. Once again we had picked the perfect day.

I did have a spot of trouble getting to my chair in bare feet as i had to walk over 30 ft of decking which had heated up to such an extent it was almost unwalkable in bare feet. My antics amused the other sun worshipers you were sensible and had there jangles, flip flops to you and me.

We left the Spa around six having had a great day and topped it off with a large NZ ice cream cone on the way back to the cabin.

We were both knackered so an early evening siesta was called for before the day finished with a game or two off Draughts and a couple of beers.

Tuesday 31^st Jan

Time to move on today, this time heading for Kaikoura about 120 kl away to the east on the coast. We took the remainder of the scenic route taking us through a craggy landscape mixed with lush pastures and grazing sheep. Passed through Rotherham on the way, very different to Rotherham UK, only one road with six houses. We knew we were getting close to Kaikoura when we passed a section of road called Whales Back Saddle and caught a glimpse of the sea beyond Goose Bay just to the south of the town.

We parked up in the town’s main street adjacent to the ocean and had a stroll. First shop we passed was a Barbers so in i went and had a Buzz cut. Oh how wonderful to lose the dreadlocks and 70%!o(MISSING)f the grey! Feeling liberated i celebrated with a coffee and Steak Pie before nipping in to the bank to pay the Greymouth Parking fine.

Shortly after we signed up for two nights at the Top Ten camping site and settled down for an hour’s read in the sunshine.

Late afternoon we walked the short distance back into town and booked ourselves onto a ‘swimming with Seals’ trip. Yes Seals, not Dolphins. We are to meet tomorrow at eleven to be kitted out in wetsuits and snorkelling gear and taken by RIB to a section of the rocky coastline to swim with the Seals. Should be interesting.

After town we headed out in the car to South Bay, a small community south of the Kaikoura peninsula. Here we walked part of the peninsula walkway taking us up and over the hills giving us splendid views out across the ocean. It was here we found a path leading down to the rock ledge below and a sign warning us of the dangers of meeting Seals and nesting Sea Birds.

We knew there was a seal basking further on as we had seen it from the cliff top, what we didn’t know was the other fifty hidden in amongst the rocks. We soon found them, or i did as i nearly stepped on it. Not sure who was the most startled me, or the Seal. It actually didn’t seem to care less and carried on snoozing happily.

Around the corner it became interesting when we found the other 49 or so seals lying in wait for us. At one point the beach, our only way through, narrowed between two rock faces and guess what was in our path, another Seal, watching us intently. The rule is to keep at least 10 mts distance from them, in this instance we would be 3 mts if we squeezed past. Our other option was to crawl through a cave which would take us round the seal hazard. This we did very carefully just in case one was lurking inside. We dodged the roosting gulls and swarms of insects inside and the stench of Seal sh*t and emerged about 10 mts the other side of the Seal. Looking again we then noticed two more of its mates carefully hidden in the rocks nearby, so should we off taken route one we would surely have become Seal supper!

We finished the walk without further obstacles and from the car park admired the ever changing sky as the sun finally set behind us over the mountains.

The day finished with five chapters of my latest crime thriller and a nice cup of Earl Grey T.

Wednesday 1 st Feb

Here we go again, more rain overnight and early morning. With breakfast finished Sue made a call to the Seal swim office to check the trip was on. Good news it was, so we made our way to the office in town, paid our fee and where given wet suits, flippers and snorkels and a quick briefing of what to expect. For this trip we were the only two booked, so it was to be a personal experience. It was then all aboard the Seal swim Bus and down to the beach to meet the RIB and our instructor. The rain had cleared and the sun was out over a mill pond Pacific Ocean and we set off to a group of rocks where our skipper assured us Seals would be. He was not wrong, with masks and flippers on we jumped in and went in search on our furry swimming friends. Within seconds we both had Seals launching themselves from the rocks and swimming all around, some would tip themselves on end head down watching us with interest then level out with their heads only a few feet away. On occasions they would open there mouth revealing some large teeth which that close was a little unnerving. Apparently they are just playing.

After an hour we moved on to another spot where young seal pups where playing. These young ones had no fear and happily played with us, at times swimming between legs and touching us.

The Skipper had received a VHF call letting him know of a storm that was inbound from the South very shortly so we upped anchor and made for harbour with some haste. The weather apparently on this coast can change within minutes, from calm and sunshine to a strong gale and severe rain. True to its word it did. After making our way back to the camp site we found our little tent blowing inside out in the ever increasing gale. Some frantic re pegging and making use of the picnic benches saved the situation long enough to make a cuppa. We decided in view of the forecast we would re pitch the tent in a more sheltered area of the site, better to do this in daylight and not after dark. After carrying it around site trying out locations we settled on a spot next to a high hedge which stood next to the main route 1 road, a little noisy but it would stay in one piece.

Give lend the tent a bit of stability we sat inside and read for an hour or two before enjoying a large Rump Steak and Salad and catching up with life on the net.



Thursday 2^nd Feb

As we suspected a noisy night with trucks rumbles past at regular intervals and the occasional train passing the other side of the camp. We packed up just as a shower of rain swept through leaving the tent a little damp. We would hang it out to dry during our coffee stops if weather allowed.

Had a drive out to the Peninsula for a look around then down to another Seal Colony we had missed for more pictures. Finally hit the road bound for Blenheim and the wine country at around eleven. The road north hugged the coast most of the way up revealing the craggy volcanic shore line and dark sand beaches. The inland hills/ mountains appeared softer than we had seen before covered in fine dry grass with occasional rich green pastures for cattle / sheep. We stopped briefly at Half Moon Bay for coffee and more Seal pictures, managed to get some good shots of Seals with real personality and bad fish breath!

The closer we got to Blenheim the more the scenery changed from grass covered hill into hills and valleys covered in vineyards, we were entering the Marlborough Wine region famous for labels such as Hunters, Cloudy Bay, and Allan Scott.

We found another Top 10 site to stop at once again with a railway line running next to it. We were assured the pitch given would be quite and sheltered, we will wait and see. Next to our tent was the most extraordinary motor home, definitely homemade, three storeys and built of plywood and apparently it all folds up when on the move. Check out the photo’s, seeing is believing.

Once settled we had our usual hike around the area and checking out the town ect. Pleasantly surprised with the range of shops and prices and we found the local Cinema and they are showing the Dragon Tattoo so that will be our Friday evening sorted out.

A takeaway supper from the local dairy and an evening’s chat with a couple from Peterborough.

Friday 3^rd Feb

Surprisingly we had a quiet night and slept ok. Today we are hiring a couple of bicycles and riding the wine trail. We collected the cycles, packed the panniers with lunch and headed out. As it was still mid morning we headed for the town to seek out some bargains. It was good to find shops with realistic prices to the UK and soon found myself a $45.00 pair of walking trainers and Sue found the $3.00 shop and had a spending spree! With shopping done we dropped our loot at the tent and headed off to find our first glass of wine. Eight kilometres later down a very straight road we arrived at our first stop, the Cloudy Bay Winery and settled down to some serious sampling accompanied by some very nice Tapas. Next stop was the Allan Scott Winery then on to the Moa Brewery for some light beer refreshment. The brew here was very much like the Belgian Trappest Beer, dark and strong. Sue was now starting to wobble and when leaving managed to put her bike helmet on back to front and slightly resembled the guys who whizz around the Olympic veladrome! Oh dear....

After two more stops at Hunters and Drylands Winery’s we tackled a head wind and headed for home. Why is it, whichever way you cycle the wind is always in your face?

Despite being in the saddle for most of the day we enjoyed the tour and are looking forward to finishing the day off with a night at the Cinema. Talking of Saddle why do us fellow’s have narrow pointy saddles and woman have luxurious soft wide saddles. I can only assume it has some to do with the size of the bottom region?

Anyway , moving on. The night out at the movies was good, arrived a little early so went for a beer first at a bar close by and killed time watching the Wellington Sevens on the TV, Rugby of some sort, and laughing at the 70s/80s hair do’s the blokes have. Remember when it was fashionable to have a mullet with a long straggly piece of hair at the back, well it’s all the rage over here.

We went back to the Cinema ten mins early just in case there was a quay, as it turned out we were one of only 34 other film buffs who turned out. We enjoyed the film although it missed out a number of sections from the book. We were also pleased to see long time PMSC member Don Sumpter appearing as the Police officer, must get his autograph at some point.

It finished at 23.15 and we walked back to camp somewhat amused at the groups of youths gathering with their cars in various car parks just like in Ipswich. Only these kids were in Escorts, Capri’s, and Cortina’s. There we were thinking they had all gone to the scrap heap.

Saturday 4^th Feb 3.938.8 18 deg

Up a little late this morning, no hurry though as we only intend to move on approx 100k up to Motueka, just South of the Abel Tasman National Park.

A quick stop off in town to change up some travellers cheques then we hit the road driving past he vineyards we visited yesterday on the bikes then out into the hills and pine forests with some extremely winding roads. Today’s Coffee stop was at the small community of Havlock and its Marina which sits at the end of Mahau Sound. The Marina was predominately motor / fishing boats with the odd yacht here and there. Off this corner of the Island there are masses of Sounds and Bays to fish in and explore. One way we noticed is to join the Mail boat for a day when it visits the outlaying Islands, something we will probably do.

Another hour in the car and we arrived in the City, yes City of Nelson. Now Nelson didn’t appear much larger than any previous places we have visited so how it achieved City status we are not sure. Must visit the museum to find out.

Today in Nelson was market day so off we went to look around. Again not quite the market we expected this was mainly made up of second hand book stalls and organic foods. However at the very end of the street we came across some street Theatre which was hugely entertaining. The event was called Buskerburgoo which featured acts from NZ and Australia.

After this we left the city and headed further North looking for the next top Ten camp site. On finding it located next to a busy main road in the middle of a built up area we decided to move on to Ruby Bay, a small coastal village further North. It was here we found the site i am currently sitting in. It’s ok, cheap, basic and quite but contains some odd people, most of them Maori who seem to spend their entire time sitting, drinking, smoking and watching.

Once set up we popped out for some milk and ended up down by the river enjoying happy hour at the local bar. This particular place resembled the entrance to the R.Deben mixed with Ramsholt.

Two beers and a couple of three fruit Ciders later we are back at camp planning tomorrow’s travels.

Sunday 5^th Feb

Up at eight today and in the shower before the local hobo’s are awake. Quick breakfast and break camp for 09.30 and travel the short distance to Motueka to visit the Sunday market we have seen advertised. Another disappointment, the large country market we had imagined turned out to be half a dozen stalls of art and crafts and some veg. As we needed vegetables we bought a selection from a guy originally from Colchester, another small world.

Our walk round lasted all of five minutes after which we topped the car up and headed out along the route 60 up and through the Abel Tasman National Park. Now these were steep and very winding roads, so much so Sue felt unwell and vowed to take the car travel tablets on our return.

On reaching Takaka we turned off and ran along the edge off Golden Bay and have set up camp at another Top 10 site in Pohara. We were opting for a cabin as its Skype night but unfortunately as it’s a Bank Holiday wk/end every cabin was full, so the tent it is.

Chilled out for an hour or so sorting through the many leaflets we have collected and planning the week ahead, our last on the South Island.

About 16.00 we ambled off for our afternoon stroll, heading for a small harbour and marina i spied in the distance. The route took us along the sands of Golden Bay set underneath more craggy mountains. One of the features here is the noise made by a flying Beetle thing, not one but thousands of them that live or roost in the trees. Unlike the ones in Thailand these seem to be noisy 24/7.

We made it to the harbour and found a dilapidated fish quay and equally dilapidated marina containing a smattering of power and sail, nothing to exiting. There was one yacht club and half a dozen campers and not a lot else, not somewhere i would choose to keep my boat.

On the walk back we paused to watch some climbers hauling themselves up a rock face and further on some brave swimmers going in for a dip. The weather today has been cloudy and drizzle up in the mountains, not to cold though at 20 deg, warmer than the UK i understand.

That really sums our week up. Looking forward to tomorrow when we shall being doing a spot of Salmon fishing then hopefully eating our catch, we’ll see?

Spending the rest of the week at this end of the Island before taking the inter Island Ferry next Sunday from Picton across the notorious Cook Straight to Wellington, North Island.

Until next week, enjoy the Snow, drive carefully and Emma/Mike don’t use too much heating oil!

PS - Selection of weeks photo's to follow in a day or so.

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