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John was yet again up with the lark to take pictures of a stupendous sunrise and walk the deserted beach, I got up to admire the red sky (doesn’t bode well for the rest of the day) and took the time to shout ‘wake me if there are penguins’ before snuggling up in the duvet for another hour’s sleep. This site really is fantastic - in the summer you have to apply to stay in one of the 850 pitches and they draw lots and inform you if you’re one of the lucky ones. We only saw 3 other vans dotted at far ends of the site, so it was effectively that we had the place all to ourselves.
John eventually came back, and I finally dragged myself out of bed - and I thought I’d just go and have a quick look at the lovely beach. I was so excited - half way along there was a penguin! I dashed back for my glasses and the camera and took off down the beach, carefully edging closer whilst my very presence was being ignored. Now is the time for Treen to bury her head in her hands and Danielle to
preen and say ‘that’s my mum - I knew she wasn’t a twitcher’, because, of course, as I got closer (and to take a really good shot was up to my ankles in cold sea) even I realised that it wasn’t a penguin. Or perhaps its a new species ... it is black and white after all! John says its a jolly good photo anyway but of a Pied Cormorant!! (she says proudly!)
We had intended to go for a walk (she says tongue in cheek), but we discovered the joys of sandflies. I’m not sure if that’s what they are - dratted little black flies which seem smaller than their bite ... and they get everywhere. The 100% Deet does seem to put them off, but they still seem to make you itch anyway! It’s really frustrating - I’ve spent the entire holiday trying to persuade John into sandals, and as soon as I can see the light at the end of the tunnel, the blasted flies arrive en masse - and I can’t blame him - even my feet look like a war zone! We’d barely been bitten until we arrived in NZ!
We had to
drive to Golden Bay and over the same winding Takaka Hill Road with hairpin bends as yesterday - but it’s amazing the difference when the sun is shining! And all of a sudden, we could see into the distance and to the top of the mountains (and blimey, were they high!) Amazingly we kept passing the enormous road-trains coming from the opposite direction - these juggernauts can be terrifying enough bearing down on you on a straight Aussie highway - just imagine how scarey they can be on a narrow NZ mountain pass!
However, I must say that the scenery was stunning - but you’ll have to take my word for it ... here comes another of our little frustrations ... there are various places to pull in and admire the scenery, and indeed, there are often designated viewpoints ... and for some reason, some idiot has thought that these will look more attractive if trees are planted all round them ... so the only places where we can stop and John can actually admire the view and take some photos without crashing the van are the only places with absolutely no view at all! You normally know when
you’re arriving at a particularly good viewpoint, as there lots of baffled people with cameras looking at trees bemusedly (or gesticulating rudely!)
We drove down the Motueka River Valley, which was really pretty with autumnal colours, orchards with ripening fruit on the trees, and sheep everywhere - and we even saw some naked llamas (we are trying for photos of naked sheep!)
I’m pleased to report that they have cancelled the water saving restrictions in Nelson (where we were yesterday) as the day’s rainfall has refilled the reservoirs!! They didn’t have to tell us that! There are numerous rivers and creeks around here, and I’ve been fascinated by some of the creek names: Big Deep, Little Deep, Washout, Little Hope, Cockney ... but the one I can’t get my head round is Dough Boy!
Late afternoon (and another heavy shower of rain) saw us driving through Buller Gorge, with its wide rushing river and high white cliffs. A couple of times the road was a single carriage way - and only once did it have lights to control traffic flow! The Maori names for the Buller is Kawatiri, which means deep and swift - this is highly
appropriate as it has the greatest flood discharge in NZ.
A quick stop at Westport to fill up with petrol - and the discovery that they charge nearly 10 cents more a litre than Nelson (if only we’d known) and then off to find somewhere to camp for the night. We are parked on the tip of Cape Foulwind ... honest! (you just can’t make these things up!). Spectacular view and the most adorable little birds for John to feed and photograph.
So there we are ticking off #5 Abel Tasman, #74 Nelson (Seafood City - although we didn’t get to eat fish and chips there), #83 Takaka Hill (drove it twice, hairpins and all, just didn’t fancy cycling it!) (anyone who does must be nuts!!) and #78 Buller Gorge. Phew! I know its been a tiring day ... John’s been snoring for the past half hour ... and its only 7.30!
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Kim
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What no quilts
Hooray, found a page that doesn't mention quilts, do duvets count?