From the Queen of Roadkills

Oceania » New Zealand » South Island » Abel Tasman National Park
November 17th 2005

Published: December 22nd 2005

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Coffeecat

The Pancake Rocks

Layers upon layers upon layers

Trying to think of a catchy title can sometimes be the biggest stump of all in writing these blogs. Although this entries´ title doesn´t create a glamorous image, it is the truth. I never meant to be behind the wheel with so many splats behind me, it just worked out that way. Really I´m trying to help out the New Zealand conservation department as the possum population is a very significant problem for the rest of the wildlife, most importantly, the national symbol of New Zealand, the flightless kiwi bird.

In fact, I even passed one tourist attraction that made everything on site from possums...possum pie, possum stew, possum rugs sweaters and hats. If only I´d known about them before, I could have brought along all of my road victims for a discount. Well really I think I only hit one...but there have sadly been a few birds too. It´s life on the road I swear! I never meant to be a Roadkill Queen!

Having left Franz Joseph Glacier after my afternoon climb, the next stop to pull over for a cup of semi decent coffee was in the little town of Ross. It had been recomended

Blowhole

Luckily I wasn´t standing so close to this one!

to me by some other travellers who had been taken in by the charms of the former goldmining glory days. During my visit I was still plagued by the heavy clouds making it difficult to find the golden nugget. I did find a Lonely Planet writer who was traipsing around town making a few updates. Had he not been so engrossed in his task, I may have asked him to join me so I could bombard him with questions about travel writing. But really, I was more in the mood to drive on. The coastline was beautiful, although the wishwashing of the windscreen wipers prevented me from seeing everything at its´finest. I pulled over in Hokitika and dove for cover in a few of the many many jade shops.

When I´m asked where I´m from, I usually struggle to come out with a believable answer because of my ridiculous accent. When I said Canadian this time, I didn´t get a puzzled look in response, but rather an invitation to a 'behind the scenes' tour of the workshop. NOT that kind of a behind the scenes! The West Coast of New Zealand may be known for it´s quality jade,

Beach On Way to Pancakes

Even without the brilliant sunshine, a beach can evoke a lot of inspiration

but the West Coast of British Columbia has it´s fair share as well. This is what the artists wanted to show me, Canadian jade. Apparently they bring in a few pieces from time to time, to meet the tourists demands. I studied the various carvings that all have different Maori meanings and decided on one piece as a birthday present for me, or maybe a Christmas present for me, or maybe I can just call it a holiday present for me!! My mom knows how many presents I´ve sent home and she may think they´re just for me as well-but I promise mom those gifts are going to be shared!! Anyway, as there are so many different shades of green jade, it´s now my favourite stone and favourite colour. So it ended up being a perfect escape from the rain.

Next stop was Greymouth. I popped into the museum to see if the town might have something to entice me to stay, but opted to keep heading north. When I arrived in Punakaiki to see the ´Pancake Rocks´, I knew where I wanted to wake up in the morning. The beach in front of the hostel stretched around

Not a Kiwi

Most people tyhink that this bird is in fact a kiwi (including myself) but it´s actually a weka. Kiwis are only around at night, and are slightly smaller

the mouth of a river that had found its way down from the surrounding hills. Fishermen tried to snag their dinner and lovers strolled along the shoreline. I grabbed my book and day dreamed in the sand. What a contrast to the earlier excursion on the glacier ice!

When I ventured over to the Pancake Rocks, I felt as if I was walking back in prehistoric times as I heard roars of spray blast through blowholes in the layered rocks. The pathway was enclosed by flax reaching eye level so it was often a surprise to see the water shoot up with such ferocity. I got a bit soaked, but continued to look around each corner. The best time to view the area is at high tide, which I seemed to be lucky enough to hit.

Time to hit the road again, heading towards the North Coast. The road was another delight to drive. One area had such a rocky overhang I pulled over to ensure the lorry behind me was able to actually get through. Sure enough he did, but it was pretty close. I jumped out for some fresh air at a couple of

Tree Tops

These trees provide such a green front, and below they are just skeletons. A canopy along the hills opposite the Pancake Rocks

places along the way. After being attacked by the endless swarms of sandflies I soon opted for the comfort of the car again.

I spent one day in Motoeka battling a cold but found enough energy to plan my next adventure, tramping within Abel Tasman Park. I drove to the water taxi in Marahau and was amused to be jumping in the boat that was parked right beside my car. As the water level never quite reaches the top of the bay, we were towed across the sands by a tractor before we were able to start the engines and speed off in the shallow waters. The first stop was a huge boulder the source of many Maori legends explaining how it was split in two. It was similar to those I saw on the East Coast but about 10 x the size and totally on its own. We continued north up the coast and saw many fur seals and private houses tucked into the bay. I was then dropped off at Totaranui where I had a chance to sleep on the sand in the sun for awhile. I wasn´t in a rush to start the hike as

Pancake Spray

I had to wait for low tide in order to cross Awaroa Bay, a few kilometers from the start.

I trecked past huge ferns, glow worm caves, private lodges and an old quarry. A few hours had passed and luckily, so had about 20 km. I arrived at the Bark Bay Conservation Hut where I would be spending the night with about 20 other people. I had never seen sleeping arrangments quite like they had there, even in my many months of bunk beds in the hostels! Seven people on the bottom bunk, and seven people on the top! Luckily we all had our own foam mattresses! With no electricity in the hut, most people (including myself) were in bed by 9pm, ready for an early start on the trails the next morning. As tired as I was, the only thing I could not do at that point was sleep, partly because I couldn´t take my eyes of the rat that was going through everybody elses´bag of food. He must have been collecting for a Christmas feast as he was in and out of people's packs for nearly 5 hours. And nobody else bat an eyelid.

Layers

The hike the following day back to Marahau was equal in distance and in sights. I only had one unfortunate incident when I was chased down the beach by an oyster catcher. No, it wasn´t some guy in a diving suit with a bag of oysters, but a mid sized black bird with a very long red beak. I must have accidently walked too close to his/her nest of young ones, as s/he then found it necessary to peck at my rucksack as I tried to run away from it! Sorry bird!! The trails filled with more people in the early morning so I didn´t talk to myself and sing out loud as on the previous day. I met a lovely American teacher along the way who had stories of living in New Zealand that I found inspiring and so I logged them in my brain for future reference. And then it was over. Back into the car and driving on to Nelson.

Nelson was a larger town with some interesting buildings and more of a nightlife than my previous stops. My choice for a night out was rather low key as I lay in front of the

Cubic Crumble

big screen watching Ralph Fiennes romance life in Africa as a British diplomat. The pace of everything was catching up to me and I struggled to keep my eyes open.

After a most appreciated sleep, I hit the road again for my final leg of the South Island tour. I had bought a ticket for the cheap (but hardly cheap with a car!!) ferry to the North Island. The road showed off many wineries and trails winding along the coast, confirmation that I still have more to explore when I next return to New Zealand. Arriving in Picton, I boarded the boat and squeezed my car amongst the big trucks. Having gone for the cheap option I was sharing the space with fewer travellers. I had to laugh out loud when I was looking around the edges of the top deck and looked down into one of the transport trucks. Living up to the stereotype of New Zealand´s occupants, were hundreds and hundreds of sheep. It was a fitting farewell to the South Island.

The ferry pulled into Wellington and I had to adjust quickly to life on the North Island. Everything is so big!! Buildings

Me at Pancakes

and people and lights and busy busy busy compared to the South. But I´ve lived in London, so I can surely handle this! In the morning I called a friend I had first met in Cairo Airport and again in Petra a few days later. Carole rearranged her schedule for my brief visit to her city, and we began our tour of the town. We drove up to Mount Victoria and looked over all of the colourful rooftops below. People from Wellington seem to display their artistic flair everywhere. This of course includes Carole as she exhibits local artists in her house. And her house! I thought I had died and gone to heaven it was so full of character. I managed to capture her front door within the detailed archway, and then kicked myself at the end of the day when I realized that I didn´t have a picture of Carole herself. Amazing you got out of that one Carole!! We had lunch in an old surfers' club and continued to drive along the inlets of the city. All over New Zealand, Lord of the Rings has left its´mark. We drove past the house of director Peter Jackson and

Wet Beach

the sun was really trying to get through

I couldn´t help thinking how times have changed for him, yet he smartly shuns Hollywood and lives in artsy Wellington.

Te Papa Museum was the next stop, and it could have been a stop for several hours had the sun not been shining outside. The Maori displays and geographic explanations of the land were first class. The artistic touch encouraged me to keep walking through the downtown streets of Wellington to see the hidden treasures. And there are so many! Statues and sculptures of all types line the roads and edges of buildings. I also discovered an artist's eye must always look up as they had hidden a steel ball of ferns in mid air, tucked behind some office towers. The views of Wellington are endless.

For my final morning in the big city, I decided to tour the parliamentary buildings. Recently adapted to withstand the many earthquakes that the area faces on a daily basis, it was interesting to climb beneath the structure to see how it is supported. Giant springs are not an exaggeration let me tell you! After the library, the historic photo hall and the giftshop, it was time for me to

Boot Beach

Boot Beach only because of the rock formation in the distance. This is Punakaki Beach.

be on my way to start exploring the rest of the North Island.

With the South Island behind me, it almost feels as though I´ve entered another country. The road ahead will be most intriguing.

And it really was, especially when I was behind bars!

Take care everybody and hope you are all enjoying the holidays!!

-Fiona

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