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Published: April 20th 2006
Bottlenosed Dolphins
Frolicking in the Bay of IslandsIt's not so grim oop north. NZ's North Island contains the bustling metropolis of Auckland, the laid back capital of Wellington and a whole lot inbetween. We started in Auckland, where we met up with Jezz and Pen, who flew in from Melbourne to join us for a while. We headed up to the Bay of Islands, a favourite weekend destination for Aucklanders due to its fantastic weather and picture-postcard coastline. We had four perfect days in the bay, the highlight of which was sailing around in a catamaran accompanied by Bottlenosed Dolphins. They grow up to four and a half metres in length and are a mightly impressive sight. Unfortunately we couldn't swim with them as there were juveniles in the group. However, watching them bowriding and twisting out of the waves was amazing enough.
Another awesome sight was the Kauri forest that survives on the west coast of Northland. The ancient trees were all but wiped out in the early 20th century. The logging of the Kauri trees fuelled the young NZ economy but was a terrible ecological loss. The oldest surviving trees are probably around 2,000 years old and reach up to 60 metres tall. Standing at
Maori carving
Waitangi - the birthplace of modern New Zealand the base of the trees makes you feel like an ant with a height complex. It will take centuries for the damage to be undone. However, it's comforting to think that with continued protection these timeless giants will survive us all.
South of the Bay of Islands are the Poor Knights Islands. Once inhabited by the Maori, they are now a marine reserve with very tight restrictions as to who can actually set foot on the islands themselves. Jaques Cousteau rated them as one of the top 10 dive sites in the world. Well, it certainly wouldn't rate in the top 10 warmest. Even at the end of summer, the first bit of water that seeped into the thick 7mm wetsuit took breaths away and initiated streams of expletives! However, the sea was teeming with huge Kingfish, Rays and Triggerfish. A Hammerhead shark made a fleeting appearance which really made the day. While Tom was below the waves Suse, Pen and Jezz were in sea kayaks. Having broken through the surf and got behind the breaking waves (no mean feat - there was quite a swell that day) Suse remembered that Great White Sharks inhabit NZ waters and that
kayakers have been on the receiving end of some rather one-sided encounters. Jezz proposed the use of the code word "Armegeddon" in the event that fear took over. Within a nanosecond Suse was paddling for shore yelling "Armegeddinoutofhere!".
Next on the agenda was the Coromandel Peninsula. We visited the spectacular Cathedral Cove, a stunning bay of cliffs and archways. A highlight was watching a girl being motioned back for a photo resulting in a classic backwards trip into the sea. Ah, the joys of shadenfreunde. Just down the road is Hot Water Beach - famed for its hot water springs, which are accessible at low tide and from which you can create your own hot water spa pool. We were a little disappointed to see that a hoarde of tourists had beaten us to it but it actually turned out to be enormous fun. If you've got a brain you first dig test holes and try to find a hot spot. That's much more effective than digging large holes in the wrong place - as we soon found out... Suse found the right spot though and we commenced construction of our pit and sea defences. It sounds like a
bucket and spade game for adults and that's basically what it was - all the fun of regression without the stigma of being called childish - it's a spa pool, not just a big hole in the ground - no really!
Actually, you do have to be careful. The water in our site was so hot that it would scald your feet if you stood in the wrong place. As we sat in our sweltering pool having cold beers (well, what are spas for?) it was quite a relief when the sea periodically demolished our wall and bathed us in refreshing cool relief.
In Pauanui we stayed with Eric and Jean Muckle, parents of Stu (Mick Moo to you). Eric kindly took us out on his boat, the Muckabout. The boys were soundly thrashed at fishing by Snoozy and Pennelopoppy, who pulled out snapper after snapper. All was going well until two big fish were landed at the same time. In the ensuing mayhem a rod made an unexpected visit to the seabed. Erk. One of Eric's diving buddies tried to find it but a rod in an ocean is just about as close as you can get
to a needle in a haystack. Sorry about that Eric!
Jean cooked up the snapper for us. It tasted incredible! We were all snapper converts and quite happy to bash them over the head from then on! Thanks to Eric and Jean for showing us some true NZ hospitality - you guys were fantastic!
The North Island is renowned for its caves and more particularly for the glow worms that live in many of them. We visited the Waitomo caves, some of the most spectacular in NZ. We scrambled and ducked our way through the subterranean labyrinth in order to access the underground lakes, which we then crossed by floating across on rubber rings. We jumped off a waterfall deep underground and then drifted through huge caverns decorated by the glow of hundreds of worms.
It's not actually the worms that glow, but their excrement. They use it to attract their prey. The 'worms' are technically maggots and they are known to eat each other. Nevertheless, the glowing excrement of the cannabalistic maggots had an eerie beauty.
The next day we walked the Tongariro Crossing - the most popular day hike in NZ. The crossing cuts
Making a natural spa on Hot Water Beach
The water was almost scaldingly hot - it was a relief when waves broke over our defenses! through the wasteland of the central volcanic plateau, a desolate wilderness between two volcanoes, Mount Tongariro and Mount Ngauruhoe (AKA Mount Doom in Lord of the Rings). It was a wonderful walk, despite the crowds and the clouds. As we descended from the highest point of the walk the mist lifted and three shining emerald lakes emerged below flanked by hissing thermal vents. Absolutely awesome Bob.
Jezz and Pen had to get back to Melbourne but we just had time for one more activity. Jezz chose white water - and not on a raft (Oh no, that would be far too easy!) - we were in duckies - two man raftlets. That meant that we would be steering ourselves through the grade 3 and 4 rapids rather than a guide doing it. Our guides confidently told us that it wasn't a matter of 'if' we fell in but rather 'when'. Regardless, Jezz and Pen paddled their ducky through all 30 or so rapids without mishap. We were doing well too and beginning to think that it was all too easy. Then in a flash our ducky was trapped on a rock and filled with water whipping it out from
Suse embarasses the boys again
Yet another huge Snapper for the Snoozinator under us. We were thrown along with the fast moving current, bashing into submerged rocks all the time. We desperately tried to keep our heads above water and our feet tucked in as we hurtled through eddies and whirlpools. We scrambled onto the bank on the other side of the rapids, spluttering, trying to catch our breaths and checking that nothing was broken. We had a new respect for the river. To be honest it also hightened our enjoyment of the journey - knowing all the time how close we were to pain and danger. We didn't fall in again.
After we said a sad farewell to Jezz and Pen (they'll soon be back!) we headed for Napier in Hawkes Bay. For the uninitiated, Hawkes Bay is where some of the best NZ wine is made. Our friend Kelli (last seen having her legs danced off by Frank in Patagonia) took us to a vineyard in order to sample the delights of the region (darn fine they were too). Napier is an Art Deco town, having been rebuilt following its destruction by an earthquake in 1931. It's a pleasant place with a relaxed atmosphere (come to think of it,
The fantastic Muckles
Posing in front of the aptly named Muckabout everywhere is pretty relaxed in NZ with the exception of Aukland!). The nearby coastline is very beautiful too - good choice Kelli!
Our last destination was Wellington to meet up with our old mate Forsyth. Wellington is renowned for its wet and windy weather and it didn't do much to dispel that rumour! It's a great city though, despite the howling gales. We did get a break in the weather long enough to go deep sea fishing. Everyone seems to go fishing in NZ - every petrol station sells bait - they're just mad for it! We have to agree that the fresh fish you catch out there is on a different planet from the sad specimens on sale in the supermarkets. Why pay for something awful when the sea is full?
Once again Suse made a mockery of the boys' fishing prowess - landing one of the biggest snapper you've ever seen and then following it up with some enormous cod. Tom was only left with stories of his one that got away after his line snapped when we were fishing for Grouper at 150m. Cheers for the good times Forsyth - will be seeing you soon
Caving
Waitomo glow-worm caves in Melbers.
We've left NZ behind now but have many memories of a dramatic and beautiful land. A place of unlimited activities, extreme sports and tough men. Above all, we were shown much kindess by the good folk of NZ and that will be long remembered. We hope to return one day - we felt a real connection with the place. Suse certainly has a connection with NZ. Her name, Burnett, is shared with the mountain range next to Mount Cook. Next to the Burnett range is a rather pathetic dull peak called Rotten Tommy. Suse found that hilarious for some reason.
Take it easy guys
T&S
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Ma'n'Roly
non-member comment
I'll never go fishing again...
Much impressed by the fishing - I always said girls were better at it than boys, and now I see the proof! Great blog - keep 'em comin'! XX