Aotearoa - Land of the Long White Cloud

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-- NEW ZEALAND -- I'll update this blog as I travel around the North and South islands of the country. The story so far:

-- MANUKAU, AUCKLAND --

...seeing as I landed here in Auckland NZ on the 28th January, my recollection of events are blurred and incoherent though probably more consise. In any case, the fact that my intended three week stay in NZ has already extended to more than double that time, says much for itself...

... I departed Rarotonga ready. Ready to move on. In part because of my discomfort with the familiarity of the locals, partly also at the lack of company and a sense of idyllic boredom, but also because I had, and have always had, a really good feeling about New Zealand. I was not mistaken. The closer our flight drew to the islands, the better I felt. Freezing cold and soaking wet from the rain, I felt warm and confident about my arrival in the country of kiwis. I landed, four hours (though in real time a whole day later) in Auckland - open eyed and in awe at this clean, green and friendly faced country. The airport alone was sufficient to warrant a few camera shots! Locating family whom I'd never before met was great. Greeted by warm hugs and smiles, I was glad to have my luggage carried and to be driven home... where I still find myself..a whole two weeks later...

...Beyond the bedroom window, the golden brown jersey cows stare at me curiously. Their inquisitive gaze distracts my thoughts. I suppose I ought to start from the beginning. Friday night didn't involve much other than a well-needed shower, dinner and sleep. Saturday was far more interesting. We headed over on a scenic drive (though I was soon to discover that all drives here are scenic) to Port Waikato which involved more family greetings, a day on the beach, followed by freshly caught and cooked fish in batter accompanied by my first taste of NZ's famous Lemon & Paroe drink. Mmm! That evening, Ane drove me to the farm to meet the horses and fowl of which he is so fond. Awesome. We ended the day with a hot spa under the stars....

Later that week, Anesh drove to the farm again, and under his supervision I rode Ralph round the paddock. Was difficult to mount and climb, but worth the effort!

I was also fortunate enough to be driven around town by Deven (thanks D)! Starting the day at midday, we did well with the tourist checklist - the Sky Tower in central Auckland, Mt. Eden, One Tree Hill and the Auckland National Museum... Active as the day had been, I did rise to the challenge of playing hockey at the Auckland grounds. Kitted out with shin pads, socks, and a stick... it took some cajoling before I made it onto the turf! Got whacked and wet on the water based turf but.. we won.

...picnic dinner at the beach today. feeling full as we returned home, I wondered whether I had room for dessert.. always! My first taste of kiwi pavlova, topped with cream, chocolate and kiwi fruit and accompanied by the sharp taste of boysenberries...

Horse-riding and hockey haven't been the only things keeping me active here. As at home, I make a conscious effort to go running. Equipped with running shoes, I go wherever I can. With the wonderful surrounding scenery and all the desserts I have been indulging in, there is no excuse. I have been running regularly, though inconsistently here. Having never been accustomed to the steep gradients, my calves were aching and stiff as they adjusted to the new pressure. Still, the amazing landscape and the entertaining animals along the way kept me going and there was always the spa to soothe any stiffness away at the end of a good run!

-- DEVENPORT --

...Auckland lies on a narrow volcanic isthmus between two huge natural harbours facing two oceans. With thousands of enthusiastic yachties and probably more boats per head than any other city in the world, it is not surprising that Auckland is known as the 'city of sails'. Driving across Harbour Bridge to the North Shore seaside suburb of Devenport, this was evident as the view displayed an array of white masts dotting the sea. Devenport, maintaining it's Edwardian character was quaint and quiet. The volcanic cones at North Head and Mt. Victoria provided sweeping views across Waitemata Harbour and the city....

-- MURIWAI --

The 6th of February was Waitangi Day - a national holiday to celebrate the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi; a controversial agreement signed between the native Maoris with the pakeha (European settlers) in 1840.

...A windswept rugged coastline, 60km of surf beach and rolling dunes of sparking black sand characterises Muriwai beach. And it was this hot, shimmering black sand that brought a smile to my face as I swept my legs through the soft grains, watching the diamond like clusters form shapes as they stuck to my skin. The heat eventually drew me to the water - icy cold waves of froth, relentlessly crashing onto the shore and reclaiming what they had freely thrown earlier, in the low tide. Within minutes, I too was being thrashed around in the playful yet dangerous tides of the sea... For lunch, kiwi asparagus rolls as well as fresh bread and salad was a perfect after swim fuel. That, and a good book. Once dry, we headed up for the climb in search of the takapu colony that reside here by the strong winds.... Climbing, this, the result of an eruption of the life blood of the earth... still harmoniously pulsating far below the rock and surface, in rhythym with the life breath of the earth whose effects we see, whose breath we hear and whose power we feel, yet cannot touch. The winds. It is the powerful winds that blow into the western coastline that has the gannets make this their home, as they lift, gracefully into the air... They sat, hundreds of them, resting, navigating, feeding and courting... I stood, high up, mesmerised by the beauty of the scene - the sea, the shore, the desolate hillside and to jutting rocks, all of it being caressed and shaped by the incoming winds of the west...

-- RANGITOTO ISLAND --

... Having spent the day organising my extended stay here in NZ, I was exhausted. Still, trudged along to hockey - this time agreeing only to spectate. Chatting with Rakesh, I was invited to another day out in Auckland. Seeing as the sunshine was on our side, and it was my last day in Manukau, I decided to take him up on the offer of a trip up R'toto island. After admiring the QE II that was docked in Princes Wharf, we set off on the ferry across to the extinct volcanic island of Rangitoto. It was an arduous but exciting climb up. We stopped in dense vegetation for lunch before making the ascent over solidified molten lava. Two hours later we reached the summit. Wow. The peak provided panoramic views of the north island. Drove back to Manukau via Pakuranga. The evening wasn't over for my camera - now bashed and bruised but still functioning, Anesh and I went out photographing buildings for his homework project...

-- BAY OF ISLANDS and CAPE REINGA --

...My first experience of city backpacking did not go down well. As I entered the tiny, fully occupied dormitory I wanted to leave. Several bunkbeds, backpacks and scattered luggage as well as all the other niceties of a nomadic lifestyle such as shared bathrooms and kitchens - I am having to overcome dependence on a comfortable lifestyle. All part of the game I guess. Gotta keep playing. Thank you Anthony for all the encouragement and support through the harder times...

...As is inevitable when hostelling, I was awoken several times by incoming people. The morning brought with it my Kiwi Experience bus as well as an uplifted mood as I took up the seat next to the driver, enjoying awesome views and great conversation. We stopped by a honey farm en route to the 'winterless north' and I couldn't resist a fresh ice cream and fruit smoothie. Also bought a jar of manuka honey, renouned for it's healing properties - my sweet tooth didn't need much convincing....!

...As I arrived and checked in to my next bed for the night in Paihia, I threw aside any negative commentary my mind was choosing to engage in and decided to make the most of the day by going to the muddy hot pools. Hoping the smell wasn't indicative of the experience, I changed into my togs and went to take a look. Hm.. wanting to change my mind and get back on the bus, I forced myself into the hot, murky water, renouned for it's beneficial elements. Covering myself with the exfoliating mud for the benefit of a good photo, I decided twenty minutes was more than enough... Got home to find my silver necklace a dull gold. Uh oh. Found a magic potion to restore it to it's former glory - toothpaste! Haha... As the sun set over the islands, I ate pumpkin and kumura lasagne with apple pie. Too much. Ugh.. walked off by a night stroll along the beach...

...Lisa the bus driver did say that I'd have fun with Auto on Sunday. That, was an understatement. By far the nuttiest, craziest, most extroverted driver I have ever had the pleasure of travelling with, Auto ensured that this had been the best day by far in my travels. We stopped at a rainforest and a bakery before making the long drive up to the northern most tip of NZ - Cape Reinga. My eyes could not have been more open had they been stretched, and I was practically sat on the dashboard as I stared, open jawed, at the secretly amazing landscapes the north had to offer. I say secret because for all the praise and wonder I have heard about the south island, the north is not given enough credit... it is breath-taking. Miles of lush green mountain ranges, breaking through the sea mist. Listening to kiwi music and tales of the land, I was captured. To the point at which I almost fell asleep! Auto was having none of it and soon had me playing games... to which he lost and later had to shout me fish and chips. The regions around Cape Reinga, a spiritual and sacred place for the Maoris, boasts miles of unspoilt coastline and is uninhabitited and deeply trabquil. We ate lunch on one of the beaches and then headed to the sand dunes. I looked up..and up.. as I realised the enormity of the sand dune ahead. It was midday.. the sand had spent the whole morning being heated in the searing sun and we were to climb it. Hm. I hesitated but soon gave up, knowing that I would eventually go and may as well give up any internal resistance and get climbing. Classed as an extreme sport, I'd say the toughest part of sandboarding is the climb up. Feeling like I was in a heated gym, on a soft treadmill, I tried to clamber up this gigantic dune, sinking with each step and seemingly going nowhere. I reached the top after what seemed like an eternity and looked down at the steep slope of hot white sand that lay before me, beckoning. Knees on board, being held back by Auto, there was a huge adrenalin rush as I started off down the dune. I was at the bottom before I knew it and would have happily had another go if I'd had the energy to climb up again. No thanks...Stops en route home included a place carving wood aged thousands of years, the oldest in the world. We also had fresh fish n chips on the harbour and stopped by an old couple for helpings of fresh fruit. The day had exceeded my expectations by far and after a shower, I sat out on the beach in the evening, eating ice cream and attempting description of an indescribable day. I was interupted by two older ladies who had recognised me and came inviting me for dessert and coffee. I happily agreed and we spent a wonderful evening together...

...Sleep deprived, I arose early once again to check out of the hostel and head out to the harbour. Drama for the day (there is always something to keep me entertained), was that I missed the yaght. Crew came back to get me. 'On the Edge' is a beauty. She's a four million dollar red and white racing yaght with a wonderful crew, passionate about sailing. We sailed out into the Bay, with only 15 passengers on board, we made ourselves comfortable, admiring the views, and the sealife. Sitting out on the mesh with water splashing beneath me, I caught sight of baby penguins diving around in the turquoise blue waters. We headed for a secluded bay, with dazzling white sands and a clear lagoon. We barbequed on board, then made the most of the equipment she held - kayaks, boats, ropes, snorkels, and a knee-board. Cruising around on the mini-jet with Tim, I once again broke that internal resistance barrier to get myself onto a board, rope in hand as Tim revved the engine and jetted around the bay, dragging my scared self around the sea... By far the most memorable moment though, was sailing the boat herself. Speaking to Rob with a keen interest in the dynamics of sailing, he offered me the wheel. Complicating and difficult, I lasted only ten minutes before I handed it back! Got the bus back to Auckland with Gibob, another friendly driver whom I accompanied in the front seat, learning more about the Maori culture. Sights of the city against the pink sky were awesome. Exhausted, I travelled back to Manukau, to a hot shower, some food and a welcoming bed...

...My stay in Manukau has provided me with a lifetime of unforgettable memories. Thank you to all those who made this possible... I shall carry your warm wishes with me as I travel southbound...

-- AUCKLAND to WHITIANGA (COROMANDEL PENINSULA) --

...This journey really began the night before when I said my final family goodbyes, there were tears and hugs as we bid farewell, not knowing when we'd meet again. Moreover I was less than happy to be hostelling again. I allayed my disquietude by heading to the bar where I'd arranged to meet Gibbo. Leaving early in favour of updating my blog - I sat up in the hostel til 3am uploading the photos you've all been so keen to see! Up at 6am for the drive to Whitianga. I was feeling withdrawn and nauseas from the lack of sleep but enjoyed the drive nonetheless, through Thames, before crossing the Kopu ranges. We passed through Tairua, in the backdrop of Mt. Paku then made a stop at Hahei - whilst the others descended the cliffs to explore Cathedral Cove, I was in no mood for such touristy trails. I opted instead to swim with Andy on the vast empty shore. I say "swim" in the widest sense of that term possible. It was more an experience of a human washing machine, and equally refreshing... Next stop was Hot Water Beach, where masses of people had taken to digging themselves spa pools in the sand, as the underground geothermal activity heated the surrounding sea water.. I hadn't the patience nor the energy for such crowds and wanted only to arrive at my next makeshift home...Relieved I was then, that the hostel was wonderfully new and...clean. sigh. Joined the group for fish and chips, or "fush n chups", which, as ever, far surpassed brit standards... Whitianga was a wonderfully quaint quayside town with it's own golfcourses and aero field for those with their own planes. Of course, it's a place I'd like to purchase property... so if any of you care to make a donation of a few million pounds, please do...

-- WHITIANGA to ROTORUA (BAY OF PLENTY) --

...Departed early to maximise our time in the geothermal and cultural centre of NZ, Rotorua. Heading back over towards the Kopu Ranges, then south towards Paeroa (yes, the origin of the "world famous in NZ drink")! and onto Mt. Te Aroha - the mountain of love. We cruised the Hairaki Plains, home to thousandsof the most productive cows in the world. Briefly stopping at Matamata, home of Hobbiton (for those Lord of the Rings fans), we arrived into Roturua and stayed at one of those God-awful hostels that either bring you to tears or simply beg the question "whyyy"??! Feeling lethargic, lazy and disgusted with the hostel, I decided to run - went to Lake Rotorua in the evening sun. Rotorua is Maori for 'second lake', which is descriptive of its' founding by the Te Aroha people when they first settled here. Whilst the setting may have been pleasant, the smell certainly wasn't. All around, is the unusual sight of steam, rising up from under the streets, as well as various bubbling mud pools and geysers. The town has been called several things from Sulphur City to Rotturua, but the Maori name sums it up nicely; 'Whangapipiro' (an evil smelling place). This awfully distinctive smell is caused by the sulphur dioxide created by the geothermal activity in this region. Rotorua is the largest city in the Bay of Plenty, with around 50,000 people calling it home. Many of these are Maori and it is here that we visited the Maori cultural evening. Immersed in the culture, we entered the Marae in the traditonal way, challenged by chiefs doing the haka, then welcomed by waiata, poi dance and other traditions. All this was followed by a feast of Hangi (steamed in the ground on hot rocks)...

-- ROTORUA to WAITOMO --

...yet again I was overwhelmed by that joyful nomadic feeling I am sure every backpacker experiences of complete despair at having to shift bag and bed every night, packing, unpacking, packing, unpacking, and then attempting to repack whilst wondering how the hell all this shit fit into your backpack in the first place, followed by the pleasurable experience of hoisting all 15kgs of crap onto your aching back and moving, moving, moving...

...the next location was Waitomo; where we headed by driving through Waikato. We did get lost but I had little care, for I enjoyed every single bit of kiwi landscape that I am fortunate enough to see. We finally arrived at the virtually non-existent 'town' of Waikato, amused by the horses drawn up by the pub, which the farmers had used to arrive at their glasses of beer. All but for that pub, a lodge and a few cave attractions, there was nothing for miles around. The lodge, was backpacker heaven. I cannot tell you how tempted I was to extend my stay simply for the comforts of a lodge so sparkly clean and new. I shared the room with an Irish biker and a couple of Canadians, all of whom slept early, much to my delight...

...Not wanting to get into a wetsuit but feeling I ought to explore the underground limestone caves, and their glow-worms given that it was the only feature in this town, I opted to go with Karl on the Ruakuri tour. It was good but what I enjoyed most were the scenic hideaways such as: the spectacular Marokopa Falls where gallons of white foam thrashed into the water forming rainbows at its base, or the Redwood Forest with it's magestic tall trees and fresh, damp vegetation... it is these secret luxuries on hidden highroads that I have savoured. The cave expedition was nonetheless made a memorable one thanks to Henry, who persuaded Karl that we jump the safety barriers and explore the slippery slopes in search of Maori burial grounds. Exciting yes, but still, nothing gets my adrenalin pumping better than the natural beauty that NZ boasts. Next on the agenda was the natural bridge of Mangapohue - a 15m limestone arch that bridges the Mangapohue Stream and is the remnant of an underground river channel, the rest of the cave having collapsed and eroded...

-- WAITOMO to TAUPO --

...Ever since I saw my first skydive on Blue Peter as a child, I remember pointing at the TV screen and promising my mum that I too, would one day jump out of a plane. Ten years later, whilst at university, I had an opportunity to realise that dream. I still maintain that it was far and away the best ten minutes of my life, and ever since, I have been waiting for my next jump. Lake Taupo was it. At a mere $150, it is the cheapest in the world, and offers astonishing views. I was soon to be found geared up in a bright red jumpsuit, legs dangling off the plane edge, full of jubliance and joy at the bed of clouds that lay before me. Although massively disappointed that I was unable to do a sunset dive, it diminished my experience none...

...still on a high, there were yet more tough decisions to be made - to go out on the town with the kiwi crowd, or to get an early night given my 4am start (sigh. it's a hard life eh...) (?!!)... I returned from the pub alive, awake and still happy from the jump. This wasn't helped any by the good music blaring from the bar downstairs and the fairly active 14 bed dormitory. I awoke to every small sound and before long it was 4am - time to embark on my next adventure. This time, one that was enough to instill fear: the Tongariro National Crossing...

...06:40 - we begin the eight hour trek across Mount Tongariro. I say 'we' - I was alone really, as I knew nobody else on the trek, and in any case had little chance of keeping up. I looked down at my feet, hoping they'd respond to the encouraging looks I gave, but to be fair I had difficulty believing I'd make it myself. Freezing cold, warmed only by sights of the rising sun over snow topped mountains, I was tired already. I looked at my watch. 07:00. Twenty minutes into the walk. Hm. I was walking through Lord of the Rings territory, and it felt so much like Middle-Earth, I almost expected the dark forces of gloom to come running around the mountainside. I craned to see the mountain ahead; it's peaks being wrapped in soft, swirling cloud. Wow, I gasped in admiration.... until I realised I had to climb the damn thing. So that's what they were referring to as 'Devil's Staircase'. Hm. Well, only one way to go, I again reassured my legs that they'd make it to the top. Begrudingly they slowly and heavily shifted over the precariously balanced rocks and grit. My accomplishments on the Duke of Edinburgh Gold Award Expeditions paled into insignificance as I ascended this slope. I didn't dare look down, nor up, I simply concentrated with all my might on each step, lest I fall. An hour later, I was at the peak, having climbed up into the clouds, I was now colder than ever, pooly equipped in my linen trousers and waterproof coat. The land was barren, cold and dark. Hardly a picturesque location for morning tea, Nikki and I endeavoured on, on to the next climb, with every peak teasing, disguising itself as the summit yet hiding another steep climb behind it's ridges. I gave up hoping and decided to focus instead on just climbing, and staying alive.... (okay, so perhaps I'm being melodramatic, I mean I was hardly climbing Everest - but hey - I have small feet and a tiny body that seemed to want to be dragged by the wind down into the pit of the volcano)... Looking out into the vast lands of 'Mordor', feeling exahausted, cold and afraid of falling, I began to wonder at which point this was supposed to be 'fun'....Still, never one to be defeated by my own challenges (and without the option of turning back anyhow); I made my way over the mountain ridges, finally reaching the Red Crater - enormous sharp drops of red and black, descending into a dark pit. I couldn't see the bottom and neither did I wish to - I simply wanted to get there! Right... next question: how the hell am I supposed to get down without falling? I had clambered up partially on hands and knees and wondered whether I'd descend sliding down on my backside, or face down. Fortunately I was rescued by good company. Nikki, Helena and I held hands and slid down together toward the Emerald Lakes where we stopped for rest and recharge. A short stop and I was up on my sore feet again, enjoying the flat ground before the ascent up to the Blue Lake, then through the narrow ridge through the valley. Realising that there was no 'fun' part but for the insane folk that revel in such volitional acts of torture, I stopped all wishful thinking and focused on getting to the end. The descent was almost as arduous - impacting hard on my joints. By 15:00 it got to the body and mind numbing point of carelessness... We eventually arrived, battered and bruised and utterly exhausted at the finish line at 15:30. Clambering ungracefully onto the bus back to civilisation, I hadn't the energy for celebratory thoughts...

...In need of a good massage and a hot spa, I had to be content instead with a communal shower and a shared dorm. My own time and space was something I could however afford, so I headed here... to Lake Taupo, as it whispers soft winds of comfort over my aching body...

...Awoke aching but stayed in Taupo a day longer for another trek and some solo time. Walked north to visit the Huka Falls, and more importantly, the Honey Hive at which I managed to spend a significant amount of money on gold aka manuka honey, as well as other natural products. En route, I met once again the Irish biker on the road who offered me a lift to the geothermal Prawn Farm. I declined but being tired, later accepted the same offer from one of the staff at the honey farm...

...Utterly exhausted but thoroughly satisfied at the days purchases, from a new sleeping bag to sweetness in jars that I sent home, I went out into the evening. It was irresistable - a warm breeze, a beautiful blue lake decorated with mountains at one end and the town of Taupo at the other. Picking up an iced mocha as well as another swiss fruit bread loaf to compliment the days indulgences, I found a soft spot on the grass and sat, contemplating in disbelief, how fortunate I really am...

...Disappointed that I hadn't seen Helena down at the lake front, I wasn't surprised to find her sat waiting patiently on the dorm floor upon my return. I didn't hesitate to accept the proposition of a midnight walk. Her cute German accent, broken English and sweet sense of humour lit up my evening and had me realise that I'd just made a lasting friendship. For even if our paths don't cross in the south island, I'll be sure to pay her a visit in Frankfurt. She showed me her own proud new purchase of a tent, from which she pulled out a fleece for me to wear in the night chill as she walked me back to the hostel...

-- TAUPO to RIVER VALLEY --

... Having not the will nor the inclination to overcome my sugar cravings, I enjoy an entire bar of crap confectionary otherwise known as Cadburys. (Yes, real chocolate is most definitely a European thing). And willingly so. It's the first smooth moment I've had all day. Hm, today has been rough. Or rather, my experience of a perfect day has been rough. I feel sleepy and exhausted from the arduous work of self pity and coach travel. Icing on the cake was our infamous Swedish friend who chose to take the seat next to mine. My crossed arms, gnarled face and nose pressed to the window so hard, it could've shattered the pane said much for itself. Understanding the boredom of her own monologue, she fell asleep and away to the land of dreams (no doubt so that she could talk the fairies to death). My grumpiness followed me from the night when the lager louts in my dorm decided to continue their drunken party indoors through til the morning. Sleep? Come again?? ugh...

...We drove around the eastern shores of Lake Taupo (huge enough to fit the entire country of Singapore into) and on to the township of Turangi, the trout fishing capital of the world. We stopped at Taranaki Falls so that the boys could show off by jumping off the cliffs, then continued our journey past the impressive peaks of Tongariro National Park. The Maori chief Te Heuheu Tukino gifted the nucleus of the TNP to the people of NZ in 1867. It is dominated by three large volcanoes: Ruapehu, Ngauruhoe and Tongariro. Mt. R captured world headlines in 1995 when it burst into life, blasting a plume of ash 12kms into the air and emptying the crater. We headed around it's western side to Waioura and through the deserted areas of River Valley. Cliffs, bush-clad curves, waterfalls and aesthetic greens are all that surround the lodge. Once again, on Lord of the Rings territory, the Rangitikei River runs past the doorfront. It offers only one of two grade five rafting in NZ, but I opted instead to curl up inside the lodge, with a book, feeling cold and a little fluey, having shared a room with three ill people. ugh. My mood was not improving...

-- RIVER VALLEY to WELLINGTON --


...Passing through Taihape and towards Bulls, we stopped for refreshments (chai latte and chocolate in other words). Scenic drive to the city, with the backdrop of the Ruahine and Tararua ranges, and cruising along the Kapiti Coast, most of which had been conveniently wrenched out of the sea by an earthquake in 1855. Wellington is located directly on a major earthquake fault, the biggest of which measured eight on the Richter scale. It is soon expecting another, any day now, and most buildings here are unable to withstand a factor seven quake...

...Checked into a sanctuary room at Base and grabbed Colm for a walk around town. His was the only company I could bear...

...God its GOOD to be back in the city!! Every single ounce of my irritability vanished in an instant with my arrival into the capital. The bright lights, big buildings, and buzz that is characteristic of any capital is enough to get my blood pumping. I feel alive. I feel at home. Like London, Wellington has it all - fashion, food and fast pace... Colm and I went out again later that night, strolling round the city with Nikki til the early hours...

...woke to do more of the same... spending an entire 13 hours just strolling around and soaking in the city. Went to the Te Papa museum, the organic foodstore, the good earth organic cafe, an italian bakery (for your sake Aleem)! a juice bar and the wholly bagel. Yes by this point I was feeling wholly sick. Walked to the Beehive aka the NZ Parliament, designed by British Sir Basil Spense, who dreamt up the idea over a couple of gin and tonics (too many some say). Anyhow, not wanting a guided tour but simply a feel for the cradle of government, I was happy to lay out on the lawn in the hot sun. I coincidentally was in prime position to view the unexpected police parade that came marching along to commemorate their 120th anniversary. It was amazing to see uniformed officers perform Maori war dance, living harmoniously as they do. I listened to the Ministers speech, dozed a little, again disbelieving how lucky I am to be here, in Wellington NZ, then toddled off to Queens Wharf in search of a good spot to finish the book Colm has kindly lent me. Not finding coffee to my satisfaction, I wandered down Lambton Quay and found another honey store, making use of their free tasting as well as a chocolatier... well, being the cocoa connosoeir that I have grown to be, it'd be a crime to just walk on by. So I had a single dark chocolate truffle. Impressive. Even by European standards. Time for a Mojo i.e. proper coffee. In the company of a good barista and an even better book, I contentedly spent three hours in that dimly lit cafe atop Willis Street and didn't mind that I had missed the chance to watch the nation's sport live - the Hurricanes were playing the Catz tonight, on the rugby home grounds...

...Walked back in through the Friday night buzz of the city, happy as a bunny. Stopped at the supermarket for some more fruit of which I've never heard and headed to the hostel to update my overdue journal entries....

...Tomorrow I leave the North Island for the South, which has too often been quoted to be the most breathtaking piece of natural beauty. Given how stunned I have been by the North, I wonder if I will ever be inclined to leave this paradise....

-- SOUTH ISLAND, NEW ZEALAND --

-- WELLINGTON to NELSON --

I was sad to leave Wellington, not least because of the early morning rise and the three hour ferry journey across to Picton. I slept most of the way, in part to save myself from the ever persistent nausea of sea travel and also, the scenic sights are increasingly less impactful as I rise each morning to amazing scenes or natural beauty. Picton is not only the gateway to the Malborough sounds, but also boasts wonderfully warm climates and a famous wine growing region. And even if intoxication isn't your thing, there are always the plentitude of secluded sandy beaches, coves and native bush. Got on the bus in Picton and headed out via the Marlborough Valley with its cascades of vineyards and hillsides. Stopped by Pelorus Bridge for a book read, or rather a bake, in the sun. Arrived into Nelson in the late afternoon; NZ's sunniest city, sheltered by it's location at the head of Tasman Bay. Having been sat all day, Liliane and I took an uphill walk with Felix to the 'centre of NZ' point, for some fun and tourist photos. Made it back in time for wine sampling and dinner.

-- NELSON to WESTPORT --

..Mm.. things are looking up. As things always do when it has rained. After a run through the sleepy township of Nelson, I showered and was offered to relax in a huge lounge room, closed to other guests... I discovered the collection of videos beneath the TV and opted for "Shakespeare in Love", as well as two bars of Whittakers fruit and nut chocolate - yes, a girly night in one might say...

...My only other recollections of this region are stopping at Kaiteriteri to take a water taxi to do part of a walking track of the Abel Tasman National Park...

-- WESTPORT to MAHINAPUA --

.. We headed today..actually no, let me begin by describing to you the amusement of my current situation - I am perched, on the edge of a tiny bunk bed, in a room the size of a kitchen worktop, scantily clad; wearing only my bikini and a self made flower garland with grass skirt that I laboured over to make (well at least I made use of the sewing kit mum gave me). Yes, Hannah and I have decided to attend the "two piece party" as hula girls... After some initial resistance, the fancy dress party turned out to be a real laugh with real creativity in some of the costumes...!

...In the morning, we sped along the spectacular West Cost Road that stretches 435 kms along the rugges Tasman Shoreline, from Westport in the north to the Haast Junction in the south. The road which fringes the ocean, winds through a series of breathtaking landscapes: fertile farmland, native bush, sparsely populated towns, deserted goldfields, lush green rainforest and the snow of the Southern Alps... First stop was Cape Foulwind and Tauranga Bay where we observed the largest seal colony at play. The weather warmed by the time we reached Pancake Rock and Punakaiki - an apt visit, given that it was Shrove Tuesday! With an upset tummy I didn't indulge, but the story behind pancake rocks is a series of stratified limestone stacks which have come to resemble piles of stacked pancakes, ready to eat. My tummy was one hole that didn't require filling, but the blowholes however were far more receptive to ingestion of fluids, as the ocean powerfully spurted gallons of water into the holes in columns of dazzling white spray. The midday sunshine came to show us just how spectacular this scene could be, as it shone its rays straight into the spray, forming perfect rainbows, appearing and disappearing with the tide...

...Driving into Greymouth, I caught sight of the TranzAlpine railtrack...a jouney that I have promised to take upon my return to NZ...

...We made stop in Greymouth to get supplies for that night's "two piece party" before heading onto the hostel at Mahinapua...party was awesome, ambiance lively, helped along by an old jukebox and Les, NZ's oldest licensed alcohol seller at 80yrs old, and a former All Blacks legend...

-- MAHINAPUA to FRANZ JOSEF --

...Despite a late and very cold night, I was determined to make the most of the location. So, I woke to the sunrise and headed out for yoga on the beach. You can imagine my delight then, when I ran onto a deserted, black sand, overcast rugged beach that spread for miles beyond vision. I cared little that my bright red trainers sank into the sand and my feet were wet. I simply stood and stared out into the stormy sea and surrounding mountains, allowing myself to be soothed by the elements of the morning...back at the hostel I warmed myself with hot oatmeal and honey for breakfast... The rainfall was heavy enough to keep me happy through the winding roads as we headed to Pukekura to find the Bushmans Centre. I suppose for those with an interest, the experience is informative of life on the west coast; growing sphagnum moss, rolling timber, trapping possums and recovering deer. Never engaged myself by museums of any kind, my only admiration was for the strikingly beautiful, full antlered deer sat majestically posing by the trees. What a beauty...

...The rain continued to pour, quenching the thirst of the tropical rainforest with a generous downpour of more water per day than the annual rainfall of London...

...Westland National Park holds the Franz Josef Glacier township; a small, single road region nestled in the mountains. It was still pouring, and the hostel check in was chilly, unpleasant and wet. There is little in life that cannot be bettered by a hot shower, so I took one and snuggled into my sleeping bag, feeling dizzy and unwell... I awoke, still queasy and cold. Gladly I was in good company and Hannah and I pooled resources to make hot tomato soup with toasted bagels, cottage cheese and salad. We digested dinner by an evening walk with Nicoline and then returned to make mugs of hot fudge chocolate with the famous NZ tim tams. Well, if I had been feeling homesick and self pitiful earlier, this was certainly enough to ease the pain. The four of us, Christina included, had an early and girly night in... Didn't last long before one of those inevitable and not uncommon hostelling experiences had us all in foul moods when we were woken throughout the night by unruly dorm-mates, of the kind that derive pleasure from getting pissed then annoying others with the shit-arsed behaviour...

...At least the morning held for me a free upgrade on a helicopter ride for thirty minutes as I was told there had been some mistake at the booking centre...! Life really does treat me well... It was awesome, though I could have done without the ice landing up on the glaciers, as my body temperature dropped to finger tingling levels...

...Later that day, after a coicidental encounter, Hannah and I proceeded to demand full refunds on our dorms at the Rainforest Retreat and checked in instead to Glow Worm Cottages, a wonderful cozy and cute place... The setting is... wel, to say that one can look in any direction and see rainforest covered mountains partnered by snow peaked ones, being bound together by soft swirls of cloud - that is a picture that requires little imagination and little more description from me...

... To say more about Westland National Park; it is a unique NP, extending from sea level at Gillespies Beach up to 3505m at the main divide of the Alps. It contains 60 names glaciers including the Franz Josef and the Fox as well as the Copland Hot Springs - NZ's southern most thermally active area. The glaciers dominate the park descending from snow at 2500m to a terminal face at 250m above sea level...

...The glacier hike. This instilled more resistance that any other activity undertaken so far. For someone whose entire functionality depends on body warmth, climibing an ice glacier was something of a courageous, if not stupid decision. It was fortunate then, that I was with Hannah, who tolerated none of my whining as I put on eight layers of clothing, oversized waterproof trousers, two pairs of thick wool socks and wet, heavy hiking boots. There were several thoughts that ran through my mind en route to the base of the glacier, none of them particularly encouraging, and I did wonder at which point it'd be too late to opt out... The bush walk to the face of the glacier had me exhausted. The hike hadn't even begun. Oh man... I took a deep breath and looked up - there it was, in all its glory, the Franz Josef Glacier, shining before me, standing tall and sparkling blue in the sunlight with me, cowering at it's mercy, and in awe of it's grace. Of course, we were going around, or through it right? Nope. Striaght up. Gulp. As I attached the talons onto the soles of my hiking boots, I recalled having promised myself after the Mt.Tongariro challenge, that there would be no more hiking on the agenda...As our guide hacked his way through the ice, providing 'accessible' pathways and steps up for us, I encouraged myself with thoughts of views from the top. And besides, at least I was burning an enormous calorie count. Though to be honest, I was probably consuming them at an equal rate - on our first break I ate two whole pieces of a square meal muesli bar. It wasn't energy I was lacking. It was faith and fitness. Onward and upward, we made another stop when we reached a plateau on the glacier; 'played' around. I got wet, cold, stuck and scared, but admittedly it was very cool. The experience of being on a moving glacier, sqeezing through its crevasses, climbing its surface and wading through its waters was unforgettable. It was nothing other than a perfect day on the unpredictable west coast - the ice absorbing every colour of the sunlight spectrum but the brilliant blue that it bounced back, giving the amazing 'blue ice' encounter... If this wasn't enough, the glacier lay between rainforest covered mountain ranges visible from every angle and descending down into a deep, energetic valley. There are only two places in the world where the eco-system allows rainforests and ice glaciers to co-exist in beautiful harmony: Patagonia and NZ. I never imagined that I would one day get to see what I had only read about in text books...

...How my legs felt then is incomparable to how they feel now, but waddling around like a retard for three days makes me no less appreciative of the ice hike experience. I soothed the days aches with an hour in the outdoor spa pool....

-- FRANZ JOSEF to WANAKA --

... The morning was crisp and cold. I practiced yoga in the log fire room then packed for a 07:30 departure. The early start was in favour of capturing a postcard perfect shot of Mt. Cook and the Southern Alps as they reflected in the stillness of Lake Matheson in the rising sun. The walk with my upset stomach and stiff legs was painful. Just as well that there was a great cafe to end the walk. Cammomile infusions, a date and cinnamon roll (or two) and a raspberry and orange peel filled chocolate muffin.... Coming down the Haast Pass and into Mt.Aspiring National Park. Coming down the eastern side of the main divide, we drove to Makaroara, a wildnerness stop, boasting a population of sixty. Then onto the stunningly picturesque township of Wanaka, in the Otago province, with slightly more people at 14000. Having first dealt with the drama of organising the next few days, planning public transport, making futile attempts at attending yoga classes or horse-riding, I went to bed exhausted and deciding to devote the next day to myself. Travel is tiring, I need a break! I suppose I have been pushing real hard lately and my body and mind will tolerate it no longer. So, I woke to find Hannah preparing for yet another mountain hike, or some other such crazy mission in which I had no desire nor capability to participate. She ordered me back to bed. I went. Woke later, yoga-d in the spacious room before the next arrival of check-ins, showered and called home. The morning was wonderful and the scenery breathtaking. I walked into the Organic SoulFood Store, twitching with temptation and eventually opted for a smoothie. Engrossed in looking at the tummy teas, I was alarmed at the sound of my name being called. Turned to find the beaming smile of Rob. "Synchronicity" he said. Indeed; what isn't? I strolled around Wanaka, and despite having allocated this my lazy day, I nevertheless engaged in self destructive contemplation of having 'wasted' the day. Those of you that know me will be all too familiar with what I'm saying. Went into a few lakeside shops and emerged, unscathed. On the contrary, I was now proudly sporting a new hat and a new pair of shades. Knowing how cold it was back home I also bought some possum fur and merino wool goods to send home. Then, as advised, I had an oversized scoop of Tangos fresh dairy ice cream: cream and boysenberry as well as hokey pokey (vanilla and honeycomb). Stepped outside the shop to find Nicoline and co. indulging in much the same after an energetic 13:30 wake up. I feel better already! We sat by the lakside reading until dinnertime. Hannah and I opted for the White House - a cosy restaurant with a mediterranean feel. As always, there is always always room for desert, particularly when the chef is confident enough to fuse flavours such as cardommom and chocolate in cake with raspberry and chocolate coconut sauce and yoghurt. Having devoured every last drop, I'm wasn't sure whether I was killing my temptation or my stomach. Ugh. Barely able to move, I crawled into bed, saving packing for the morning...

- WANAKA to QUEENSTOWN --

... Well, comparing the local bus service in my home town to this: an emtpy, small air conditioned van meandering through the mountains into the sunrise, one cannot help but be overwhelmed by the feeling of good fortune. There were a couple of sleepy locals on the bus who glanced at me quizzically as I snapped shots out of the windows! Once in Queenstown, I trudged uphill bearing all 20kgs on my back and front, dumped it all at the dingy hostel and headed into town...

...I live for days like this. Alone, in the heart of Queenstown, in a small, hidden, cozy organic cafe. A colourful, comfortable environment with character. Magnolia papered walls, a low sloping ceiling with rooftop windows seeping light into colourful oriental paper lanterns. Shiffon scarves and lamps decorate the walls, ceilings and seats. Aged brown leather couches are scattered around at random, covered in soft blankets and pillows. The floors provide a similar scene, with unco-ordinated rugs and mats lying serenly across the carpet. I am sat in a far corner of the room, at the japanese style shallow wooden tables with straw mats on top and big cushions below. I am firmly planted into one of these cushions, eating an roasted veg sandwich, washed down with organic chai and clover honey served in white and blue china. I read, wrote, rested, slept, contemplated, listened to the soft tones of ambiant music and above all, enjoyed the afternoon. Song currently playing: 'Brimful of Asha'.... Indeed.

-- QUEENSTOWN to DUNEDIN --

...I'm trying to warm myself (what's new). Hot chocolate isn't doing it. I'm also impatient. Though I don't know what I'm awaiting. Drama this morning. Caught the wrong bus. Got here eventually. Massively disappointed by Dunedin, a supposedly pretty town, with a lively student atmosphere. Yeah, right. Even my aged grandparents would've had difficulty keeping entertained in this place. At most I managed a tour of the Speights brewery, sampling the various brews at the end of the tour. The guidebook said "architecturally pleasant" (this depends on your taste) and "wildlife of both the animal and the student kind" (obviously in hibernation during my visit). I did climb the world's steepest street whilst there. Oh goodie...

-- DUNEDIN to INVERCARGILL --

...There are always innumerable interpretations to any set of facts, but on this occasion, I've chosen to do nothing other than whine about the deep south. Drove around the Catlins, had close encounters with seals on Surat Bay and dealt with the freezing cold. And the wet. These two conditions in combination serve to drop my level of functionality to its lowest. My recent aversions to water however do not extend to the rain, and it was the continuously soothing tones of natures showers that kept me sustained throughout the day. As we drove in silence, I observed the weather and smiled, at the swiftly changing temperaments of nature, matching my own. At one memorable point, we found ourselves in a situation not dissimilar to an 'eye of the storm' scenario: as we watched thunderstorms rage all around us, hitting hard on everything, but us. Awesome. I was unimpressed by any of the tourist attractions of the southern coast, not the dolphins in Curio Bay, the seals and birdlife, Nugget Point, nor the 180 million year old fossil grounds. In fact, as I stood on these protected sites, all I could admire was the rapidly approaching storm sweeping in from the ocean. Sigh...

-- TE ANAU --

...Reached Te Anau, pulled on my running shoes and flew around the lake for 40 mins, twisting my anke in the process (I would later discover how this, seemingly insignificant injury would have a huge affect on my travels)... I stopped at the end of my run, with the sun setting behing the mountains, for yogic stretches, as Michael came and settled beside me. We sat and chatted until hunger got the better of us and we walked back to the hostel for dinner and sleep.. Or not. In a stinking dorm room with one snoring dorm person, I slept no more than an hour at the most. Awoke in an awful mood and the troubles at Te Anau did not go down well...

-- MILFORD SOUND --

... Once again, who should come to my rescue but mother nature herself, bearing buckets of water which she generously poured over the boat as it cruised through the magnificent Fiordland. Although not exactly a brochure like tour, I was amazed by the waterfalls and sprays of water being thrown around in the howling winds... In the good company of Felix, i had a great time and any sea sickness had no opportunity to settle...

-- QUEENSTOWN --

...Late check in to the Alpine Lodge. Small, cramped, dark, dingy dorm room for yet another poor night's sleep...Early morning rise to head to Glenorchy. 37,000 acres of land in which to ride a horse. Since Tom had a nose bleed, Joe was summoned to be my carrier. Poor Joe; he was in no mood to work, nor to co-operate. Nice. It didn't take me long however, to figure out Joe's personality, interestingly akin to my own. He disliked several things: work, towing the line, being told what to do, and above all; the wet, and the cold. Aw, Joe. We were a match made in heaven! Although I forced him to ride through the rivers at the base of the misty mountains, I did allow him to trot around all the wet muddy patches of the grasslands... I don't really remember much of the rest of the day, but unsurprisingly do recall that it involved copious amounts of Argentinian chocolate. So much for the detox...

...Checked out of Alpine Lodge and dragged my things across to Aspen Lodge, close in distance but miles apart in atmosphere and service... Wine Trail today as well as visit to a cheesery where I bought the finest sheep's milk cheese called Hokonoui...

...My current level of self discipline is at an all time low, and so as the consoling sweetness of Patagonian ice cream beckoned, it didn't take long before I was peering into the vast counter making my selection...Sat by lake for a while, with ice cream dripping all over my clothes.. Then, as I passed the Loaded Hog pub and saw the huge logfire ablaze, inside I went... Sat on the sofas until 11pm, making my way home, and purchasing what can only be described as the best fish burger I have ever tasted, from Ferberger on the main road...

...My first lie-in for ages, I woke and ate wholewheat pasta for breakfast before heading to the gym. Pilates class followed by a glorious two hour workout in a swish gym, that, on a quiet Monday afternoon, I was able to enjoy all to myself... That evening, watched the moon rise over the mountains; luminesent, creamy and full...

-- QUEENSTOWN to CHRISTCHURCH --

...Out of Queenstown and through the Kawaran Gorge and over the Lindis Pass into MacKenzie country. Views of Mt. Cook from Lake Pukaki: 3754m tall, the Maoris know this mountain as Aorangi (cloud piercer). The region boasts 22 mountains over 3050m, as well as the 27kms long Tasman Glacier - the largest one in the world outside of the Himalyas. The polar region of Mt.Cook national park is NZ's higest and perhaps most scenic. Even the surrounding lakes have life of their own, shimmering "ribbons of aqua blue kissing parched red earth". The rest of the journey was painstakingly hot and long...

-- CHRISTCHURCH to KAIKOURA --

...Having purchased the $20 ticket up to Kaikoura, it was a decision I was heavily regretting as I rubbed my bloodshot eyes at 6:30am. Crossing the Canterbury Plains and the coastal drive was nice though I'd had enough seal sightings to last a lifetime. Still, Luke pulled me off the bus to go take a closer look. Later went down to sea to board a whale watching boat. Rough seas and a swaying boat ensured that all those sufferes of motion sickness, myself included had an..interesting time keeping down lunch. The only thing that forced my head up out of my knees and onto the deck was the $120 I'd paid for watching whales rather than the boat floor. After my fourth sighting of a sperm whale, it was all too much. I fell asleep, for it was all I could do to avert the nausea. I didn't even get up to see the group of dolphins leaping into the air as they swum past. Good one Ash. Back on dry land, I sat on the pebbled shore a while before strolling around the township to ease the rocky imbalance within. Fruit muffin and tea at the Hiscup organic cafe followed by dinner of Seafood salad. Given that I was in Kaikoura, couldn't leave without sampling the crayfish (Kai = to eat, koura = crayfish) - an abbreviation of Te-Ahi-Kai-Koura-a-Tana-ki-te-rangi. The evening ended with hot chocolate cupped in my hands as I sat outside immersed in the sounds being sung by the nomadic guitarists out on the patio of the hostel, as they strung out feel good songs, bottles of Speights and good humour to hand... Mm...

-- KAIKOURA back to CHRISTCHURCH --

...I'm back. In England. Otherwise known as Christchurch. Home to 40,000 Canterbrians, its streets, trees, shops, streams, cathedrals and general vibe are all just so...English. The Anglican settlement early last century certainly did well to preserve their character and build a home from home. Incidentally, the city also has the largest number of liquor licenses per capita as well as the origins of NZ modern day bars. Here, besides drinking yourself silly, one can feed the ducks, punt on the river, wine and dine, chill out with a mocachinno, check out the arts centre market or go for walks. Like everywhere else in NZ, rugby is strong and the Cantebury/Otago rivalry is fuelled by the university support....I discovered the city in the best way I know how: on foot, with a mental map, leaving the rest to luck, getting lost and being open to adventure. Ate some fruit loaf from an artisan cafe before...sigh... another gym workout. This time pushing to 6kms. The BodyBalance class of Ashtanga yoga, Tai Chi and Pilates was simply delicious. As was the avocado, banana and tomato salad I made for dinner...

Travel broadens the mind. Or so they say. I disagree. My experiences have proved contrary. My own journey has found a stillness in the mind and an embrace of natural presence, allowing Life to just...Be. In this liberty I love to play.

...Sunday morning found me back at the gym, in another BodyBalance class. Was amazing though I miss yoga back in London, my first playground...

-- AKAROA --

...A sleepy french town on the Banks Peninsula and something of an undiscovered secret, Akaora lies hidden, beyond the hills of cch, consisting of only one 'main' road, its size and population small, but its character strong. I dropped my baggage off at the aptly names ''Bon Accord" hostel and immediately loved the place. Am historic 150 year old house, run by locals and conveniently located opposite the fresh fudge shop, it was adorable. For my short, one night stay, I was welcomed with a lavender lovingly placed on the corner of my neatly folded bedspread, with a soft towel, some wollen slippers and a hot water bottle to help me through the cold. Anyone paying this much attention to my comfort and warmth (not mutually exclusive conditions) has won me over! Nicoline joined me for a walk through town, window shopping for items we knew we would later buy. We spent the afternoon curled up in creaking old and ripped sofas strewn with blankets and cushions. Whilst I had a book in my hands and the tranquility ought to have been perfect for reading, I could not help but be pleasantly distracted by the trickling sounds of the stream flowing by, the classic 50s music and the sunlight streaming in to illuminate the laminate flooring of the lounge. Several chocolate pieces later, it was time for another walk. However, energy was not all that was spent. Inside the wool shop, i found myself a beautiful marine poncho made from merino wool and possum fur. Then went onto the silversmiths next door. My eyes glanced over the various displays until they caught sight of the most beautiful piece of artwork. Encased in a glass cabinet lay a single swirl of solid silver, sparkling with three squares of paua shell akin to droplets of water containing the amalgamation of all the beauty of the silver river that the necklace resembled. It was love at first sight. I knew, just knew, even after I'd tried it on and the shop keeper thought it to be overbearing on my petite neck, that I would not be leaving the store without it. After trying on several other items, the shopkeeper agreed that the piece was too beautiful to leave behind. So, she set about altering the shape in order that it hug my neck more closely. And so it was that I had myself an individual piece of custom shaped NZ jewellery. Who says love stories don't have a happy ending?! As if that wasn't enough shopping for the day I also bought a beaded white choker embellished with a square white shell offsetting the dark tones of my skin. Loved that one too. Since it was obvious that today wasn't a day backpacker style budgeting, Nicoline and I decided to uphold the consistency of the day and dine at Dooberrys. We ordered the fish of the day, served with garlic cream sauce, steamed vegetables and green lipped mussles with a glass of chardonnay. Un-used to meals of such substance and stature, we were full. Of course, everyone knows that the stomach holds an extra (not to mention rather large) hole for dessert. Nicoline assured me that the chocolate cointreau mousse was the way to go and so we shared a bowlful of this fluffy oral delight. A few hours later we were still sat by candlelight in the warm cafe enjoying good conversation and good company. We enjoyed more giggles and stories as we walked home in the dark, munching on bars of whittakers chocolate. Before heading to bed, I made a couple of surprise calls to England, letting people know I love them, as I enjoy to do...

...I didn't sleep too well, as one hardly does in hostels but woke early nonetheless, lured by the spacious laminate flooring of the lounge lit by huge windows and morning sunlight - all of which beckoned for me to go make the most of them with a yoga session. Although I was tired, my body was making equal demands for some yogic stretching and I feared the ramifications of I did not submit to its desires. So, half an hour later, I flowed with energy, having enjoyed every strenuous stretch, every difficult pose, every arduous opening of this practice. We breakfasted and wandered the shops one more time. Akaroa is wonderfully reminiscent of London, with exquisite unique stores of quality artisan goods from fashion to foods. First stop was 'Pot Pourri' where I bought a block of fresh irish cream fudge and a new book. Decided it was time to spoil someone else and found a nice jewellery set for mom. Where I was going to house all these new purchases, God only knew, for my backpack was already a jumbled mess of kilos shoved together in a disorderly state of affairs, and watching my futile efforts to pack the thing proved a highly entertaining episode for Nicoline this morning. So, having expended mych energy in shopping (obv), what to do next but gain a few thousand extra calories? We chose 'La Maison Deli' followed by a bag of famous fish n chips with akaroa blue cod and home made tartare sauce. Filled with fudge and fat, at least I now had sufficient energy to carry both of our backpacks to the bus and deal with the grumpy bus driver who looked far too old to be even standing let alone taking us safely back to Christchurch... Stopped at a local cheesery, then continued onto Cch where another driver was kind enough to transport us to our respective hostels. Ate soggy sandwiches for dinner then prepared for a night out. Sharin the same taste in music, Nicoline and I released all that pent up groove energy til the early hours! We sat out in lively Catherdral Square, eating chocolate and talking til late. Saying goodbye asn't difficult for I have promised that I'll let Nicoline show me around Copenhagen next summer...

...My last day in NZ has been much of an errands day. Following Body Balance class, I have been organising accomodation in Sydney, airport transfer, phone credit, telephone calls, and most importantly, shedding kilos of weight from my backpack thanks to the availibility of international post services! Another BodyBalance class (as well as several wake-up calls from frappucinos, to chocolate to spirula smoothies), and I was ready for bed. Though not before that God-given gift of hot showers..mm, yum. And, this time in a hostel so clean I could actually go bare-foot..ahh, the luxuries of hygiene eh?!

-- DEPARTURE DAY --

...I will never understand the insistence on air conditioning in cold climes. As I sit here, curled up in the departure lounge of cch international airport, I am too cold, tired and detached to feel anything but weariness. The sugar laden iced coffee was intended as an energy call. It did not fulfil. Sigh. Ready for check in, I haul my backpack onto the conveyor belt, responding to the assistant's request for my Australian visa with a glazed look. Check in was not possible until and unless I had a visa. Jeez, I hadn't the brain energy for this. Evidently.. for as I headed toward the services lounge, I recalled my application back in December and rooted through my bag to find the relevant paperwork. Now properly equipped (in paper even if not in person) I went to check in round two... Now, as I wait for my plane I suppose my departing sentiments are full of happy memories, friendships formed, experiences had, sights seen, and a sense that I will one day return. For now, there are other adventures that await...

---

Photos

The beautiful Bay of Islands
we sailed our way onto a secluded bay...

Sand-Boarding
(see me? I'm the dot attempting to ascend this grainy giant)

Mt. Rangitoto
giant of a different kind of which I also conquered the summit - woop!

Asha, out in Auckland
Thanks Dev!

Tongariro National Crossing
first sightings

Tongariro National Crossing
The lands of Mordor

Tongariro National Crossing
...Surviving...just.

Tongariro National Crossing
The Emerald Lakes

Wellington
The Parliamentary 'Beehive' in the capital city.

The 'Two-Piece' Party
Hula girl gets harassed by the Arab in costume

Rainforest Retreat
Franz Josef

The smile is deceptive...
..I'm freezing my backside off!

Tight squeezes through crevasses
.."anyone wish they'd skipped breakfast?"

Hello!
.."so there IS light at the end of the tunnel..?" !!

Lake Matheson
picture perfect reflections

Indulgence?
No... survival!

Stairway..
..to a secret garden?

The deep south
watching an approaching storm

"sup?"
Nicoline keepin cool

Joe and I
at the base of the Misty Mountains

Akaroa, Banks Peninsula
watching the world go by..

Cheers!
A final farewell as we drink to the taste of kiwis...

Comments

[dimitra]

I really enjoyed seeing you in the mud! (finally you found your natural environment). always kidding!!!!!!!